The 'E' Type Forum

I have a 1966 Series 1 FHC (4.2). It was originally a US (LHD) car, which (I think) means it probably has a 3.54:1 final drive. A 5th gear would be nice on the open road - I note there is a lot of info on 5 speed options on the forum. But is a different diff ratio an easier (cheaper) option? I would...

Hi Bill I have a '66 FHC, originally LHD. The horn relay is mounted on the panel just in front of the battery (i.e. the splash panel that separates the wheel cavity from the battery space). The relay is mounted with two small screws that go through that panel. If is oriented so that the pins face to...

Hi Simon An excellent caution. As it happens, I have not yet installed the new loom so the fuel pump is inactive. That, however, means I have to 'jury rig' power to the coil and starter to do the job, but that should not be difficult. cheers John c PS: I now realise that rebuilding/restoring or serv...

Simon No, I think you were on the right track. It occurred to me also that the HT leads from coil and to plug(s) need to be connected for the strobe light to work. But the clue you gave me was to crank the engine without attempting to start. My plan is to remove the plugs, leave #6 connected to a HT...

Simon

Thank you - brilliant! I am replacing the whole distributor, which makes the issue of initial timing more problematic.

Your solution is so obvious (now!) I am embarrassed not to have thought of it

cheers

John C

Static timing with 4.2 XK is 10 degrees BTDC. With a points distributor static timing is easy to set (with a timing light connected to the LT lead and earthed - rotate distributor until points open/light goes on). I am installing a Pertronix unit on my '66 Series 1. My hope is to get the timing clos...

Well I am glad that you made that point!! I was aware of the interference issue, but I (it now seems incorrectly) assumed that you could 'test' the adjustment, one side at a time, by rotating that particular camshaft, then removing it before testing the other. Is it correct to say the correct proced...

Angus Thank you. I presume the 'tool' is to make sure the cam is at exactly 90 degrees. I will ask where such a tool can be purchased, but I imagine also it is possible to make one up in sheet metal (provided the dimensions are accurately determined). One question - when checking the clearances init...

Steve - thanks for that article. I will check carefully but I think my cams are standard. Angus - I am encouraged that you think adjusting the clearances is a 'pretty easy task'! But I am up for the challenge and will have a go. I like things to be as correct as I can make them, so if I left the cle...

Hi. New to the world of E Types - I have a '66 Series 1 FHC (4.2). Having nil experience in setting OHC clearances I thought I should at least start off on a good (tuning) foot and get them checked by a professional. More out of curiosity than anything else I checked the result while I had the cam c...

Thanks Guys - very helpful feedback.

With a previous car (1954 MG TF) I fell into the 'trap' of letting a modest upgrade develop into a full blown restoration - it seems I have not learnt my lesson!

I conclude it is easy remove the engine or leave the frames alone
cheers

john c

Provided the engine is supported, is it feasible to remove the engine frame with the engine in situ? I am converting a Series 1 from LHD to RHD and with the radiator out, the steering rack off, the carbs off, the master cylinders off etc etc, the temptation to 'tidy up' the engine bay and frame is s...

I am told that the answer to my wuestion is that if you use a 'modern' alternator (with internal regulator) you no longer need the 3AW, 4TR and 6AR units

I am about to start a LHD/RHD conversion on my 66 FHC (4.2). Might as well install a new loom while I am in a mess. The opportunity arises to improve/simplify (?) the circuits. I am unable to find a 3AW unit, nor the oil pressure/warning light sender that I expected to find on the right side of the ...

Hi Andy I get the impression from what Richard Maury says in his article, and from the photo he included, that the screws are located in the aluminium adjacent to the guide, not part in the aluminium and part in the steel guide. I imagine that the head of the screw needs only to project a little ove...

I am intrigued! Your kit was supplied by Dick Maury of Coventry West. In his article (referenced above) he says he prefers the simpler approach used by Coventry West. I am surprised then to see that he fitted a Jaguar style hold down kit. I wonder if he has changed his mind about the better approach...

Thanks everyone for your contributions. Dick Maury's article is excellent - thanks for drawing it to my attention. I think on balance I am inclined to take out 'the insurance' and fit the elegantly simple fix proposed in Dick's article. Cheers, John C

I have noticed reference to a simple kit to prevent valve guides coming loose. Seems like a sensible precaution. Can the kit be fitted without removing the cams? If not, I will wait until I need to remove the cams for some other reason

Oops! As soon as I despatched the preceding message it occured to me that the sensor on the oil filter housing is probably the sender for the oil pressure gauge. I will need to search further for the ignition light/oil pressure warning light sensor

Thank you Christopher. I found a sensor mounted on the assembly that hosts the oil filter - I imagine that is a variation on the sensor to which you refer. Sadly (in a strange way!) the connection seems sound so I will need to look elsewhere. I plan to replace the loom early next year as part of a r...