The 'E' Type Forum

If you still don't have an answer to this let me know as I have a 65 FHC bare shell with new Robey floors in it.

paulsco wrote: ↑

Sat May 09, 2020 8:18 am

Is that a velour door card?

Yes; the whole interior including the headlining was covered in this

Paul

Very Austin Powers

Thanks for the replies.

Yes I do have a compressor (a 150L one) that should run a tool like that so I'll have a look at them, thanks.

paulsco wrote: ↑

Tue May 05, 2020 10:28 am

But why would Jaguar do that?

Is it because some part of the internal mechanism would foul on it and therefore the screw has to be really short? That hole is not tapped in mine though so I'm probably talking rubbish! It's also smaller than the other holes.

On my 1963 coupe in the garage all 4 are tapped. The diagram you have from SNGB shows C20095 and I agree the holes aren't tapped. The parts manual for your car lists 6 screws so that's probably correct. The code for the screw is UFS 419 3/H which means Unified Fine Setscrew Round head slotted 3/16"...

Then now's the time to go in from the top and fix it properly. Open the panel up, replace the plate with a new one and then weld the panel back and repair. This is probably the ideal solution as that plate is supposed to slide to make adjustment possible. It looks like quite a tricky panel to cut o...

Thanks for the reply. I hadn't thought about Helicoils as I didn't think they would do them that small but they do so good idea! Trying to get them out from the back looks like a bit of a nightmare so I'll try the Helicoil idea first before I go to the extreme of cutting them out.

Cheers, Paul.

paulsco wrote: ↑

Mon May 04, 2020 7:46 pm

Mine are all the same and tapped.
Paul

Hmm... strange. Mine only have three holes tapped like the replacement ones that SNG sell? The strange thing is that the single un-tapped hole is smaller than the other three.

Does the chrome support for the rear window locate properly in one of those holes? If it does you could leave the mess for posterity. Otherwise I'd be trying to cut off the threaded plate and making one that fits, then gluing it back in place, which should save your paint. It's not clear but I shou...

abowie wrote: ↑

Sun May 03, 2020 11:28 pm

I'm struggling to visualise which screws you are talking about.

AFAIK all the fixings are UNF... Can you do a picture?

It's the hole that's circled. The other three fixings in the lock are tapped holes but this other one isn't...

My car has had the rear upright fixing on the rear wing butchered by the previous owner. Instead of having two holes with a tapped hole in the plate underneath I have 4 big holes. I am trying to decide how to fix this little gem I've been left. There is a tapped plate underneath the wing which is he...

On the door locks there are 4 fixing screws. Three of them are 2BA and screw into the nuts on the lock but the other one is a straight nut and bolt - does anybody know what size this is supposed to be as 2BA seems too big.

Thanks, Paul.

eTypeG wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 30, 2020 8:47 pm

Many Thanks, much appreciated.

My overriders match the bumper shape pretty closely and are both the same. The gap is minimal between the two.

Thanks for the info. I'll aim for a 1/8" gap along the bottom and at the B post. But at the front it will have to be 3/16" possibly a bit more as the front edge of the door is virtually touching the panel in front of the door when you open it...

I also have a series 1 1965 FHC and have the rear bumpers off the car. The next time I'm working on it I'll try and remember to take some pictures.

Thanks for the reply Paul. I do have that CMC book but missed that dimension. Hopefully it was a typo though as both mine are just under 30 1/2" each side :wow: I think part of my problem was that I had to get the frame far forward enough so that the back of the frame didn't foul on the striker plat...

Has anybody fitted a new pair of doors to their car? Mine needs both doors as the originals were as rotten as a pear. So I got another pair of doors, took the skins off, sandblasted and repaired the frames and re-skinned one of them over the week end. When I fitted it to the car I couldn't open it a...

Thanks all for the photos and info. At least I now have a better idea what I'm looking for

What sort of price is the going rate for the documentation?

Thanks, Paul.

Thanks all for the info. I do have a jack and a toolkit which I had to sell my first born for but it would be nice to get the documentation. The set I was looking at has an E/122/2 owner's manual but I think that's a 3.8 version?

Does anybody know which edition the owner's manual would have been for an April '65 4.2L car? I would like to try and get some of the missing documentation for my car but have no idea what it would have come with when new.
Thanks, Paul.