The 'E' Type Forum

Look how those crank sprocket teeth are worn...

New:
sprocket
Tensioner
Cam sprockets
Chain

Might be cheaper to buy a parts engine

lowact wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 10, 2019 1:00 pm

Those cylinder tops also look very black - as if the engine was running very rich (as suggested by thread title), or it was burning a lot of oil, or both.

Timing chain tensioner good?

On my ex-OTS the symptoms were as follows: 1) Problems only started after a continuous drive of 30 min or more; 2) Free play on brake pedal would gradually diminish as the drive went on; 3) A delay arose between releasing the brake pedal and actual brake release; 4) Then one could feel the brakes (n...

So you think that the problem lies in the master cylinder? Could you enlarge on that for me? Yep. I have found the quality of aftermarket parts to be most disappointing. The master cyl on the E is actually a rather complicated bit of kit. I believe the quality of manufacture of the new "equivalents...

So that looks like a good range to you? Yep, that will do. If your header tank is after market, please don't disregard the possibility of that secondary bypass coolant route from header tank to top right of radiator. I worked on a 68 recently with this exact problem. I sorted it by installing some ...

No accessories on was 13.6x at battery is 13.7x with cable So you lost 0.1V simply by charging battery. Drops to 13.6x (was 13.3) with hdlts/hrt fan/radio, Aha! Up from 13.3! This is acceptable in my book. add the radiator fan which is a big GM fan motor drops to 13.5x after a drop to 12.6 and quic...

The wiring on the early English cars were done before Ohms law was invented = prehistoric. Running an unfused wire from B+ on the alternator into the dash (as per factory) is downright recklessly dangerous!! I recommend you run at least 4 gauge (Preferrably thicker) from the B+ output of the Alterna...

With no accessories on I get 13.65 at the battery, ..., drops to 13.3 with hdlts/hrt fan/radio, add the radiator fan ... and I'm down to 12.6 at 1500rpm and 12.9 at the battery 2000rpm and up... Same total load I get 13.4v at the alternator. 13.65 with 0 load is now a bit too low again. Should be a...

Something is not right. At 14.9v battery won't last long.

In my book 14.2 is about as high as it should be.

14.9 is too high. Not good for battery.

Does your alternator have a sense input? If so, connect a wire from battery + to that terminal.

Paul Buckley wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 03, 2019 11:28 pm

new master cylinder

There it is. Refit the old one and report back.

I have a 2.88 in my S3 v12 (auto). 3rd on the auto is same ratio as 4th manual. It is by far the quickest, easiest and cheapest solution for a v12. I still long for an overdrive of sorts. IF the auto should fail while I still have the means to do something about it, I will try VERY HARD to get a GM ...

What is a "safe" amp output alternator to run in a S1 wire loom. I'm about to convert to a GM 10si with either 65 or 85 amps with internal regulator. This is really a question for the Series 1 forum, but I installed a 55A alternator to a friend's 68 S1 and its working fine. Again, that does not mea...

These gearboxes (in their later iterations since the '90's) are designed to run automatic transmission fluid (yes really). Thank you Steve I'm aware of the need for the Tremec to run an ATF based oil. I did receive instructions that said so. The manual transmission on my Land Rover Discovery 1 and ...

I have a Tremec TKO500 in my '80 XJS with a 0.68 5th and 3.07 diff. It cruises at 120km/h (75mph) at around 1960 rpm .... and I wish for another gear! 1500 at 120 would be lovely.... The Tremec is rather noisy in 1,2 and 3rd, does not shift easily. I find that if I shift at very low rpm (not more 15...

Looks good!

Suggestion : apply power to fans (high speed) and check what happens to the flaps. Consider that in the car, the flaps will be much more flexible at operating temp.

MLBS3V12 wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 24, 2019 3:37 am

I've a question on the rubber flaps. What about the thickess? I do have a rubber plate to be cut but it is a 3mm and it sounds to me a bit too thick.

The flaps on my car is 1.5mm thick. 3mm would be too thick.

Here are a series of pics that my Battery Gauge displayed on the bench with voltages applied directly to the gauge terminals and verified with my Fluke multimeter (ON the gauge terminals):

12V: 13V: 14V

I upgraded my Butec alternator to a modern ex LR unit because I trusted low readings from the Battery gauge... Big mistake. Trusting the gauge, that is. In the end, I need not have upgraded the alternator at all, had I known about the issues around the Battery gauge (which was calibrated correctly a...