The 'E' Type Forum

Hmmm....the feed.to the ignition is not actually fused according to the standard diagram as the white wire is connected to the ignition switched permanent live side of fuse 6 and seven....there are several white wires all connecting here...white is by convention ignition live but not fused. Presumab...

Think 4.2 brake line go along the near side but 3.8 cars with Kelsey Hayes system the brake and fuel lines are on the same side....I think.....

The in tank pump is polarity sensitive so will need to have its wires swapped over at the joint block in the wheel well.

Mind run along the offside along your line marked D but I can't be sure mine are right!

I stand corrected 're the XJS. However the S3 e type was announced in 1971, the XJ12 in July 1972

:bigrin: . You put it better than me Christopher. I guess the S3 vs S1 debate will always be with us. The V12 is a lovely engine...bro has the injected version in his XJ12C. I'd agree with Gary that once set up multiple carburettor arrangements should stay set up....so long as nothing comes loose. B...

Crude in comparison to injection. Keeping three SU in synch is tricky. Keeping four in synch presumably equally so. And they are prone to fuel condensing in the manifold when cold....apparently.....probably why Jaguar themselves converted them to injection but too late for the e type. A V12 e is mag...

I guess nothing will look exactly like a Marston....except a Marston....Both copies will probably perform better than the original . Certainly the one I have works brilliantly....no hint of overheating even in very hot weather. Ahem.....One seems to be £200+ vat less than the other.....might sway so...

It seems FIVA and the FBHVC here in Blighty (and maybe the DVLA too) have said that conversion of historic vehicles to electric propulsion removes their historic status and thus here in the UK they would presumably require an MOT and maybe even the dreaded Q plate and possibly a non zero rated road ...

Welcome I hope you realise your dream and get the car (or cars!) You want. Being of more mature vintage than a Ferrari 430 there will be trials and tribulations but the forum is here to help.

I have a Rad tec.....lovely

For those that have a broken cut out an option would be to fit a 10 amp thermal fuse. 72set C is the lowest commonly available temp. It is not an ideal solution as the fuse is non resettable so if it fails you will have to disassemble and replace.....but you will probably need to do that anyway if t...

Having seen the carbs you have I would probably agree with Mark...get a triple HD8 set up. The ones you have look like 1.5 inch carbs. Similar ones were.fitted to e.g. MGB's. My MGB on twin inch and an half carbs will get to 110mph on a tuned 1840 cc engine. Not sure if yours came from a Daimler sal...

I presume you mean 3200 rpm not 32000....that would be impressive :bigrin: . Presuming the butterfly valves are opening fully, the needles are reasonably appropriate and fuel pressure and flow is sufficient to provide enough fuel it is hard to imagine how a car 95 percent right can only get to 3200 ...

Another vote for blue hylomar

It may be possible to carefully undo the last turn near where it broke and then re-attach. Removing one turn will not significantly alter the way the gauge reads. Only issue you may have is that if the wire is nichrome resistance wire....I think it is....then it may be difficult to solder... Worth a...

Not on the DVLA site and can't seem to find it On xke data either....

Air in the system possibly....bleed them and see if it improves. If it has suddenly happened then do carry out a thorough examination for a fluid leak - has either brake reservoir level suddenly - as a very small leak may produce a similar symptom..small leaks become big leaks and that's bad

I will see what my old M45 set up uses next time I get the car out....I have a clamp meter...remember that any fuse should carry its rated current (essentially) for ever and will carry twice it's rated current for a considerable period of time....minutes....Depends a bit on the fuse construction. On...

Thanks John...good point....it would be good to see someone do a comparison and see just how much of a reduction in current draw is actually achieved though...anyone out there got a clamp meter handy?