The 'E' Type Forum

The slave has to come off. Don't think it's possible on the car. There is all sorts of grime and grit there anyway and cleanliness is next to godliness and long term reliability when reassembling the slave I'm afraid!

Hmmm....looks more like the rubber seal in either the master or slave is breaking down...and if so clutch failure is not long behind...

If I were you I'd establish whether the rumble is indeed engine bottom end or torque converter related. With 40 psi to me it seems less likely to be crank related....BUT. The oil pressure senders are not reliable so maybe test the oil pressure with a hydraulic gauge first. If the car has stood maybe...

Firstly any car is worth what someone is happy to pay. However classic car prices for the most part, have fallen since covid...e types are probably 30% down on the peak. The car you are selling looks in excellent condition which is a positive but the following count against it. The rumble...May be e...

All I can add is buy one because you want one. I'm biased but they are fabulous cars to look at and lovely cars to drive. Mine puts a huge smile on my face every time I take it out...last time was this afternoon :bigrin: Spend the money in the knowledge that there are costs to running an E type...th...

As Malcolm said it's not that difficult to do. Really important to ensure that all butterflies are closed with no throttle before you start and all start moving at exactly the same time so 5 mins getting the linkages right can save a lot of frustration later. Set the jets and idle screws as per the ...

The e type vacuum advance is taken from the front carburettor (assuming you have triple SU set up) via a thin tube. I guess this could be blocked off and a tap taken of the vaccum hose that goes to the brake servo but I can't imagine it would make any difference. Try running the car with the vacuum ...

I speak as a chemist. Ethanol does not attack copper fuel lines or brass. It does not instantly rust steel fuel tanks. It does not immediately attack aluminium....Aluminium lids are used On (cheap) wine bottles that contain very damp ethanol and they do not instantly corrode! Aluminium has a molecul...

Don't get.too hung up on ethanol. Unless it is left standing for lengthy periods allowing moisture to absorb modern fuels do not cause untold damage. Yes ethanol does degrade old rubber fuel lines but R9 hoses are fine and you should be replacing old fuel lines anyway. The copper pipes are unaffecte...

Cutting out when hot may be a dodgy rotor arm...get a genuine red rotor arm from the distributor doctor...

It's AC...not polarity sensitive...

62 On May 8th...the car not me!

Extremely sad news. My sincerest condolences to his family and friends at such a sad time. Chris always posted sensible and thoughtful advice based on considerable knowledge and experience. He will be sadly missed by all of us in the E type community. Hopefully David or Steve can contact his family ...

So pre rebuild (by CMES in Bracknell -excellent job btw!) my oil pressure indication was maybe 30 PSI on start falling back to less than 20...electric gauge but I did test it using a compressor at sample pressures and it wasn't a million psi out. Post rebuild it leaps to 60 psi and there it remains....

Either the float has sunk or the float is stuck or most likely the float valve is stuck or a bit of detritus is stuck in the valve. Take the top off the housing and investigate? Modern fuels may damage the tip of the valve as they are usually rubbed tipped...mostly Delrin tipped...although in two mo...

Check the wiring to the stalk switch...possible a wire has become loose...

I'd start by checking the coil primary for continuity...should be a couple of ohms. Check you have 12 volts at the coil supply with the ignition on. Next remove the HT lead from the coil to cap at the cap end and connect it directly to a plug. Make sure the plug is grounded and get a friend to open ...

Probably. The original probably had four terminals but two were commoned. The replacements will just have three terminals as the switch is just a single pole changeover and probably sourced from an electronic components supplier...and will be rated at 10 amps/250 volts max. Just connect blue to the ...

My 62 3.8 fhc still has its original starter...works just fine!