The 'E' Type Forum

Andy,

I believe you are talking about "glass setting tape".

SNG state they have "door glass channel seal", which I think may be the same thing:

https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#/UK ... %20tape%60

Paul

Simon,

I just noticed your comment as I was posting.

I tried this, but it is not possible to get from under the baffle plate up and over to the void at the front of the sump.






Paul

Jonathan, I’m sorry to hear that this has happened to you. It happened to me while I was rebuilding my engine. I can’t remember exactly what fell, but it was difficult to find, so I feel your pain. I have had to remove the sump on numerous occasions, for reasons that I won’t bore you with, but I hav...

“You’re mixing up left and right, Paul”.

Yes; sorry about that

Thanks for your comments Peter; good explanation and very reassuring.

Paul

Hi Doug, Both my timing cover and water pump are original, although the pump has been rebuilt. I just thought I would update you all on the progress so far. As I have established that my car does not appear to be overheating, but the fan is failing to go off, I thought I would delve more into the ot...

Hi Layne, Thanks for your suggestions; I will have another check tomorrow. Hi Phil, The fan works and comes on when the otter switch is shorted and when the engine gets hot, the problem is it does not go off when the fan cools the radiator. The temperatures are still to be determined. There was no r...

I have to admit that I haven’t approached this in a methodical way and have made several schoolboy errors. I have replaced many items at the same time as it is a pain to keep draining down the system and refilling it again each time a change is made, but in summery I have replaced or tested: Header ...

Hi Layne, I was thinking you must have had a different version to me as mine is just a multi blade fan. I didn’t get any temperature strips when I got mine from Coolcat. I have ordered a temperature tester which should show up later today, but I currently have a leek from my otter switch gasket, so ...

Thank you Peter, I will try your suggestions. Radiator cowl is standard and sealed to the radiator with strips of foam. I will check how close the fan is to the radiator, but from memory it is as close as I could safely get. It is clear that I am working in the dark without temperature tester, so I ...

Mike, You are right; I did feel the radiator core temperature when the fan was running, but also when it was off. I am still trying to get hold of a suitable temperature tester, but the problem remains that the otter switch has not got cool enough to switch off the fan. As for the thermostat, yes ag...

Steve,

It is a 65 Series One 4.2.

The reason for Series Two pulleys is they are single V, where as the Series One is double V.
I needed single V to run my air conditioning compressor.

Paul

I just thought I would update you on my progress or lack of, so far. There were a couple of things that I thought might be adding to the problem: To fit AC I had to modify the pulley system. I replaced the double V pulleys with single V and at the time, couldn’t get hold any Series Two water pump pu...

Thanks Chris and Tom, that was my thought. Strange that it worked before. The trouble is I have been altering one thing or another over the period of this rebuild and I cannot remember at what point the problem developed. It is probably when I fitted the Coolcat type otter switch, which is supposed ...

Thanks Angus,

The centrifugal advance works fine, but I have had to work on the vacuum advance; the hole at the carb was slightly blocked and the rubber elbow on the front of the vacuum advance canister was letting in air.
Unfortunately it still overheats:-(

Paul

I have checked the timing and that is correct. I still haven’t got hold of an inferred temperature tester to check my temperatures, but I decided to experiment by removing the condenser (not connected yet) to see if the flow of air through the radiator improved the situation. It had a minimal effect...

Thanks Layne, I set it about 8 degrees as I have 8:1 pistons, but Will try 10 degrees to see if it is any better. I have a suspicion that the vacuum advance may not be doing its work, so I will check that as well. Just to elaborate on my comments above re the radiator cap: I already have the long re...

Hi All, I have noted all your comments and am working through them. As the engine had been running normally until lately I decided to start with the things I had changed. I had the old thermostat (which I tested) and a spare gasket and it only takes a short time to change, I thought I would start th...

The respirator was a a paint spraying respirator, but as I say it was overkill, there was plenty of air flowing through :bigrin: No it wasn’t just throwing out the excess water, there was steam poring out as well. It emptied most of the water in the header tank and the temperature gauge went off the...

Hi All, I have checked again that the fan is pulling in the right direction and also the water level, which was slightly low, but not enough in my opinion to cause a problem. I did top it up though. I haven’t yet checked the timing. The top hose does get hot, so it would appear that the thermostat i...

Thank you all for your suggestions, I will check them all out tomorrow and feed back.

Paul