The 'E' Type Forum

You don’t need to remove the centre section but you will need to gain access to the space between to bulkheads via the centre dash. When I did mine I replaced all of the vacuum and water pipes. Not difficult but fiddly.

Plenty of threads on this and doing the RHD conversion

This maybe what you need. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1670-Jaguar-XKE-Sedan-Center-Dash-Pivot-Bolts-Bushings-/373054773089 Above is a US supplier you will be able to get them in the U.K. but I couldn’t at this time locate part numbers Edit Found it on SNG Barrett https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#/UK...

Currently taxed.

https://vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk/V ... ?locale=en

Thanks Steve,
I’m going to give it a good look over tomorrow

Tim

I’m changing my diff this winter so I need to drop the IRS. I’ve done this a couple of times before over the years so I’m aware of the process and issues but this time I want to try something different. If I remove the drive shafts completely ( which I need to do anyway) I can then gain access to th...

I’m changing the diff on my car from 3.54 to 3.07 as such I need to recalibrate the speedo. I know I can send the unit off and have this done but has anyone tried to do it themselves using maybe an internal speedo gearset from another model. Just a thought - it can’t be that difficult to work on the...

From what I recall my sump gasket had a cut out around the seal for the front end but not for the rear neoprene seal and overlapped the seal edge. I think I stuck it to the crankcase using a sealer recommend by Andrew Bowie who posts on this forum. Used a bit of wynns gasket maker to “glue” the seal...

Just a couple of thoughts, Have you considered taking the baffle out of the sump and clearing the gunge that maybe present What about changing the front crank oil seal whilst it’s all apart. Cheap item but maybe worthwhile. Umm, maybe then you could change the oil sump return hose and the fan belt m...

https://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php ... 0&start=40

This thread is worth reading. It’s mostly about front crank oil seal but some mention of cork vs neoprene at the rear end.

Tony, I’ve just read your post again. 5cm does seem a lot of excess. Mine was probably half old that when compared to the old oil soaked and broken cork seal. I have a picture which shows the comparison between old and new, if I can find it I will post it here. My kit of gaskets came with both types...

My new neoprene seal was similar to the difference in length to the old cork seal as you describe. The cork seal had gone hard and shrunk Once fitted in the seal recess just a small excess at each end was apparent I did not trim it and think that doing so will mean you have the joy of removing the s...

Agree, the sump isn’t the easiest thing to manoeuvre with limited room. Many years ago on my first e type I replaced the sump and the rear neoprene seal moved leading to a leak. I’ve learnt a bit since then and this time followed the tips on this forum and affixed the seal to the sump recess with a ...

Hi Steve, I removed the pulley and balancer but not the studs. Front of the sump dropped easily - not an issue. Rear of sump came down reasonably well. Waggling the little bollocks over the reaction plate just took a bit of time. The sump was clearly free. I did mine whilst on my back with axle stan...

My sump came down (twice!) when the woodruff key in the crank nose was at the 1 o’clock position when viewed from the front.

Went back in easily enough with crank in the same place. Reaction plate not disturbed.

Lots of threads on this some of which I have contributed to.
In my case the shipper was adamant that the Title must accompany the car. This was then provided to the DVLA in the UK in order to register the car.

Just noticed that this is now cancelled.

Tim

Mine is on the lower left hand corner of the picture frame not far from the junction where the front brake pipes meet

Makes me feel like a vandal - having drilled mine out!

To add to the confusion
:-

Mine is a 68 series 1.5 with an originally unpainted aluminium head. I prefer gold so painted it !
Also changed the cam covers to the smooth type - should have bought a series 1


Tim

Is the new wheel specific to fit the originally fitted boss. Motolita make e type specific wheels which have fixing holes designed to mate with the etype boss. Assuming that it is an e type specific wheel you wish to fit then, yes, carefully drill out the rivets. Use the supplied bolts and nuts. The...