The 'E' Type Forum

When replying to the original text I noticed that there was another post about this which included a photo of the grommet full assembled. When restoring my car I managed to reuse the original (also minus one of the plastic pieces) so it isn't great but had no alternative. if anyone manages to find a...

Drewpy, I tried and failed to find the grommet when I rebuilt my Series 3. Mine was also in pretty poor state. There are I believe there are two solid plastic inserts which secure the flexible rubber in position. At least that is what I found. Very interested to see how this develops. I would like t...

An update on my progress with the Strombergs on my car. The proper tools for adjusting the jet height arrived very promptly from Skandix in Germany. There is the press itself and also a “depth setting gauge” which has two ends for two different depth settings These were very straight forward to use ...

Doug, NigelD, many thanks for reposting the link to the proper tools for setting the jet height. I had missed this previously. I have just placed an order for 1037412 and 1037414 which looks to be what I will need to do this even with carbs in situ. (I had planned to take the carbs off today so just...

Nigel ( I'm yet another Series 3 Nigel owner), I have been having problems setting the idle on my car, hence all my posts. I eventually measured the depth of the jets (which I had replaced when rebuilding my car). Mine are set a bit too high at .070 inch 1.5mm below the bridge as measured to the out...

Thanks Sven. If they are set closed, is the idle then set with the throttle valve being just a bit more open? (I presume this will then compensate for the loss of additional airflow past the throttle valve when open). By screwing down the adjuster screw inside the temperature compensator, I assume t...

Im still not satisfied with the idle setting on my car but learning a lot. I would like to take the temperature valves out of the equation but not so as to permanently destroy them ie so not just by bending the bi-mettallic strip (just in case I decide to put them back). I presume they need to be se...

One helluva go-kart!

Philip, many thanks for a very informative summary. I dont have a problem with overheating but this will help hugely if ever this arises. The only non standard addition I have is a wire from the unused rocker switch to the relay so I can manually turn on the fanes if ever required.

I took my car out yesterday for a long drive and Im pleased to report that she is going very well. Pulls all through the rev range (went to 5.5k) and didnt miss anywhere. One thing that I am aware of is that the engine tone has a low frequency “beat” to it (circa 1/2 second). It is only apparent whe...

Thanks all for the very useful advice. I have followed Andrew’s suggestion and ordered a vernier calliper so I can double check what depth I set the jets to (I recall 1.5mm 60 thou). I don’t think this was 2.5mm (100 thou) to the outside of the jet and would explain what I am experiencing. If I need...

Can anyone please recommend a way to set the carburettor jet distance below the bridge? When I rebuilt my carburettors (a few years ago) I went to great lengths to set my new carb jets 1.5mm (60 thou) below the bridge. I made a punch with an adjustable length (set to 60 thou) below a stop which woul...

Thanks for pointing this out Kevin. I presume one needs to remove the rear extension housing to get to the oil seal (as per workshop manual) and I would imagine this can be done without actual removing the gearbox and bell housing from under the car? How difficult is it to get the drive flange off? ...

Nigel, (Im another Series 3 Nigel owner) I will try and get a photo tomorrow but I definitely did not use any glue. There will come a time when you want to get these out to access various things from under the dash. I defiantly have mine installed above the lip (ie behind it). They do take a bit of ...

Im following this thread with interest. I have an annoying rear gearbox seal leak (all my other leaks are sorted - at least for now). I was assuming it would be an engine out job so had shelved doing this until after covid restrictions. I don’t have the luxury a lift so I doubt if I would be able to...

A quick update of my lockdown efforts to stop/reduce the various fluid leaks that have been messing up my garage floor for too long and a request for one more piece of advice. The new seals for the spin on adapter arrived from Coolcat. I cannot recommend Coolcat highly enough. Mike, if you are readi...

Many thanks James, Bill ,Colin and Ole. Your advice has been most helpful. I managed to get into/under the car today and found that the cylinder head front stud/nut immediately above the alternator bracket was loose, embarrassingly so! A quick fix to tighten this up and a warm up on the drive (Im no...

Can anyone please advise how I should stop the following oil leak. I finally managed to identify the source of an oil leak from my engine. It isn’t pouring out but is enough to make quite a mess. The culprit is one the bolts that secures the alternator bracket to the engine. It also secures the wate...

In the past I have managed to tune my car however this is proving difficult this year. I suspect the temperature compensators on the four strombergs and would like to take these out of the equation. In order to make these inoperative I see some posts about screwing the internal nut hard tight to ens...

Just to close this post, I have given up trying to get the clips on and resorted to black Sikaflex. I can only presume that my chrome finisher was too distorted and or the Hood material is too thick. Anyway it is on for now at least.