The 'E' Type Forum

Thank you for your quick replies and recommendations!

Sven

Dear forum colleagues, taking the cooling system apart I found that the housing for the Otter switch is completely corroded. But only from the outside :wow: I even have holes which go completely through the material. I don't know how this could happen. Now I want to install a coolcat temp sensor. Ca...

Dear forum colleagues,

I'm just restoring my original radiator and two of the flaps mentioned here are missing.
Are these rubber flaps really necessary?
I saw that the available new aluminum radiator parts also have no flaps.

Thank you for your advice

Sven

Hi,
I bought mine from Rob Beere worked perfect for me.
Sven

Hi,

it is quite easy, there is a bracket (C35944) "behind" the manifolds.
So you put the heatshields on, put the spring through the hole and hook it in the bracket.
Best regards

Sven

Dear Marek,

Thank you for this explanation.
I'll try this method,
I'm really happy that you share your knowledge whenever someone needs help.

Best regards

Sven

Hello Marek,

thank you for your advice.
I have checked the position of the central bolts relative to the A1 mark.
It looks like in your picture.

I will check TDC position again.

Sven

Dear forum colleagues, I have searched the forum and the WEB to find info about the crankshaft timing mark but I'm still confused. On my 1971 E the mark A is exactly at 12° after TDC if I turn the engine into TDC. I have checked the camshaft postition and I also checked if the piston is really at TD...

Hi, after reading a lot of posts in the forum (and discussion the item with a carb specialist in Germany) I have set mine to closed position using the fixing screw. Doing so it is easy to reactivate them without bending. Most of them were stuck in closed position anyway. You can find a lot of differ...

Hi,

from my point of view the orientation looks good. At least it is the same like my carbs have.
But the holes look quite big. ?
Sven

Hello Bill,

thank you for your feedback.
I'll try it.
I love to do all the necessary repairs by myself, this is my main hobby.

best regards

Sven

So today I got my 12t workshop press and have pressed out the rotor.

No I have to remove the rear bearing and the slip rings.
Did no one do this before and can give me a hint if it is a straightforward job?

Thank you for advice
Sven

Hi,

no I didn‘t.
Perhaps I will ask a student of our University to print some.
Best regards
Sven

Dear Forum colleagues, next job on my list to get the E running again is the refurbishment of my Butec alternator. I have started disassembly to change the bearings which have really reached end of their life. Now I'm wondering if the unsoldering of the outer slip rings is really a DIY job? I'm afra...

Thank you for your advice
Sven

Today I received new manifolds from SNG. Now I‘m confused because the new ones have much bigger threats for the heatshield :seeingstars: screws. Is this correct? Seeing that there are different heatshield I‘m now afraid that my old parts will not fit (I can‘t try at the moment) and that I will not f...

Hello Adrian,

I think checking the diodes like you already mentioned is the right way to start.
Sven

Hello Nigel, hello Simon, I have decided to send it to SNG and they can judge if it can be reused. Both engine and pump side show wear due to cavitation problems or corrosion. Thank you for your advice. I will continue the restoration (of course) because my wife bought the E for me to avoid that I s...

Dear forum colleagues, each part I remove from my car seems to be damaged. I'm already thinking if it is reasonable to continue the renovation. Today I just wanted to remove the water pump to send it in for refurbishment. But I found heavy damages due to cavitation. :helpsos: The pump body and the e...

Hi Martin,
Which fuse did you check?
Also the one in the engine bay?
Do the horns work(they use the same fuse like the fans)

My E burned the fuse because of a faulty horn and then the fans stopped.

Sven