The 'E' Type Forum

Absolutely right Peter. I was thinking in terms of quantity- the same amount of air has to pass the carbs, no matter if there are two or three of them. So more air and therefore more fuel per unit in an installation with two carbs compared to three, but not richer.

Indeed very interesting. I fully agree with Christopher #46 that the engine with two carbs is sucking harder therefore lifting the piston more thus increasing mixture strenght. The jet height difference between 3.8 and 4.2 (my Etype/ my friends Mk10/- both 3 HD8) is considerable: 1,1mm (3.8) vs 1,6m...

Yes I was asking myself but admittedly nicely excuted, esp the escutcheons and the chrome bits. Are you thinking of producing a little batch ?

Definitely to reduce heat ingress - I also stuffed some foam between both tunnel sides and gearbox. Made the cabin noticably cooler when driving in summer heat for several hours on the motorway.

Aldridge left a bit to be desired (I ordered an Etype hood and a Mk10 boot trim kit). But I understand that they also do trimming inhouse which might be a different story. Eric Suffolk, Mick Turley or GB trim would be my choice.

Hi James,
my clutch is due for replacement as well - a pity you are so far away
What is the min flywheel thickness? I guess that my car had at least 2 new clutches in the past maybe with scimmed flywheel, so I have to be careful,
thank you

Seems to be the next car in the line

The summary so far is: - check that the throttle discs fully open with the pedal floored - check timing - check distributor (function of centrifugal advance; specific type/ number) - make sure needles and piston springs fit your carb type for a 4.2 Jag application http://sucarb.co.uk/ - adjust carbs...

Thats ok, its tightened by the pulley.

The SU Burlen reference catalogue states the HIF 44 with man choke to be correct for the 1983 Daimler limousine (4.2 litre), with NZX 8022 BDX needles (be careful- the 3.4 engine also used HIF44, but with different needles). So if thats the type of carbs you have its worth trying to keep the current...

Hi Allen, nice looking Etype (in a wonderful surrounding!). A pity it is let down by non orig carbs. I would not bother trying to get these carbs right (esp with non orig distance pieces), but buy a set of original equipment carbs together with manifold instead (triple SU HD8) and re- convert (quite...

Mine are flush.
Nevertheless they direct the water to the top of the a-post and along the b-post right into the cabin (without lots of sealer behind them)

Looking at all Ferraris, my favourite still is the 250GT lusso and still the only one I'd buy, if I could afford it. Regarding SUVs, if you are looking for the most versatile car, go for a VW Bus (or similar) with AWD - not beautiful either

Lets assume the bonnet isnt locked, but rear bumper alignment, passenger door fit, rear hatch (maybe not fully closed?), hole for antenna ...seems to need at least the body (and paint) shop again

Congrats Andrew, seems to be in very tidy condition,
- wow, if she drives as well!

Harry,
looks fabulous! How about posting some prices for typical polishing work, eg cam cover, inlet manifold (3.8/4.2), carb dome, in the "for sale" section?

How strong is strong? Strong under which conditions, compared to what? The Etype is a 60' sportscar with ca 1200 kg, so thats what you can expect- its strong enough for normal road use and it was for racing without modification. You cant compare it to a modern safety feature car designed using FEM.

Chris,
judging from the photos from the discs, someone seems to have drilled yours in the past- maybe in an attempt to help starting. I'd go for new discs.

Nick wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 08, 2019 6:50 pm

What's the point in trying to get high mpg through careful driving ? It's a sports car !

Nick