The 'E' Type Forum

Thank you Abowie, as you say I need to adjust my window frames indeed. The doors was fitted to the car before paint, but I forgot the chrome frames. I have made them fit the car not, by some "gently" use of the 500g Hammer and a fingerband-grinder :) They need to be re-chromed anyway. But which top ...

Thank you Simon, I guess all the images I can get for the interior part of a 2+2 and especially the doors, are highly appreciated as I don't know much about it. If you have some of the door handles too it would be great. I can't seem to find any seal around the door handles, but I find it hard to be...

Ofc, I will use the regular reply

Simon, that's ok. Do you still own this jaguar etype 2+2? I located your Instagram, great work.

Hi Thim (Is that your name?), I recently finished building a 67 2+2. I have attached some pictures of the door frame fitment in the area you highlight. There is a chrome trim which fits down the side of the windscreen that should fill that gap to match the door. https://i.postimg.cc/KYkLCNKh/IMG-00...

Hello, I hope there is someone out there who has their E-type LWB, specifically series 1 2+2 1967 is possible, who could share some photos of their doors and the window frame fitment. (Photos of the seals around the frame are also very much wanted) Both doors are a bit too wide to fit inside the doo...

Yea, I guess you're right Steve. It certainly is not on my top list, i like to have the number's original and matching. I have an offer to buy it for 46.000 pound, but I think I will let it pass unless he drops to 37.000 pounds. That's a price I can work with and get my money + working hours back. T...

I have done the math and the investment costs are a bit higher than what we had hoped they would be. We will do the work ourself so we estimate a 10.000 pound part/paint investment to get the car in very, very good condition. + many hours of work. I appreciate your answers, they steer us to the righ...

Hi Thim......how is or will the car be registered in your country....will the later engine details affect its historic status or registration.....Obviously the car details have to be on your registration documents.....Steve I'm pretty sure that a classic registration here in Norway is no problem wi...

Hey guys, me and my brother was looking at a beautiful E-type S2 open-two-seater (OTS) LHD yesterday. It was in good condition probably restored in the early 2000's but the engine block had a different number from the Tag Plate. Engine nr: 8L20970-S The tag plates engine nr: 7R3221-9 We are 99% sure...

What about the shields sold by SNG, Moss, and others i guess. Do the have insulation? I know the reservoir shield does. Also, if your original is in good codition you could use a high temp adhesive and cover the asbestos with a woven foil backed heat insulating material. Available from “racing” sup...

Hey, Originally the E had asbestos plates to take the heat gradient on the exhaust heat shields. I'm now looking for a replacement material for the large middle exhaust heat shield below the silencers. I have found a material called "Steni Masterboard" that is meant for house heating cables. (not ve...

Hi I to have a series 1 2+2, fitted with a Hayward and Scott complete system.. I used their clamps etc but all fitted together perfectly, as someone else mentioned further down I think you have a coupe and not a 2+2 downpipe as mine is the same one piece all the way to the silencer? Have you contac...

The 2 into 1 into 2 does strangle the exhaust flow a bit. It was only done to avoid the larger automatic gearbox, and was unnecessary on a manual. My replacement system was from Hayward Scott, and was 2 all the way to the middle silencer Interesting, do you have a picture? After several mails with ...

I know this topic has been discussed before. But every case is somewhat different. (images below) My situation is: Problem 1) I have a manifold that is solid from the engine to the silencer. (made by hawardandscott) They assured me it would connect to the silencer. It does not. about 20cm apart. Pro...

chrisvine wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 25, 2015 1:12 pm

The ducts should be flexible enough so they can carefully be eased out of their slots in the metal dash and re-fit them prior to bonding the new vinyl top.

may i ask how much it cost you?

Funny this is such a know problem. I suspected it was.. Well my intention as of now is to use the original fastener setup, but I will thread the rods 15mm more, and I will cut and weld the battery clamp to fit the battery I will end up buying... My "new" problem is actually to find a battery with a ...

images

This should not be complicated.... When I got my E-type it was in half, thus I have no pictures of how this should be. Anyway the problem is that the battery and battery clamp is to long... At the moment the battery is not original but has very close original dimensions with only the width 10mm wide...

I know I'm 11 years late, but I just tried electroplating myself without success. I made the electrolyte with white vinegar 7%, and dessolved 2 99,8% nickelplates in that solution. It turned blue, not green. They were extremly clean, and only the nickel toucthed the solution. No copper wire in there...

I'm studying civil engineering and have access to very powerful software for construction, CFD etc. To learn it I'm considering to use my free time to construct the E-type and see where the weakneses are for torsion and stiffness in the body. To do it, I will need excat dimensions for all the bodypa...