The 'E' Type Forum

There is a 'how to' guide on the Thor Hammer website but by the looks of it you need a hydraulic press and a special purpose tool for the swaging operation. I can't decide between the Thor size 3 copper hammer 04-314 1940g and nylon dead blow hammer 20-2020 1850g. Any thoughts for use with the brass...

Thanks David, thanks Geoff, I felt that with the 3' breaker bar with all my force / body weight the pressure on the aluminium spinner adaptor would destroy it. I was advised by Butlins to use a heavy mallet. I will get a heavy copper & hide Thor mallet. I don't put any copper slip on because I usual...

Hi All, I've recently bought a Thor Hammer lead mallet from SNGB for the purpose of removing the spinners and also bought an aftermarket adaptor as my car has the 3-eared spinners from Federal spec cars. I've only used them a few times and am concerned that the mallet won't last long at all:- https:...

Yes, 13/16" AF = 7/16" BSW. Either way, essential for an emergency tool roll!

Thanks Steve, I have replaced the ignition switch and the terminals to it are ok. TBH there may be more than one problem; last night I switched on the ignition, fuel pump primed and then stopped ticking, I released all three fuel banjoes and at the carbs and nothing happened, I hit the (brand new el...

Thanks all
@mgcjag I have renewed the terminals to the coil and fuel pump but not the one on the back of the dizzy so I will do that one.
@christopher storey Yes my rotor arms, points and condenser are all from The Distributor Doctor and he refurbed the dizzy for me a few (5+) years ago

Yes, I've replaced the coil more than once. That was my first port of call and in total I have tried 4 albeit none that were known to be good but 2 were brand new. I have not replaced the condenser. The points I removed were pitted and blueish but I haven't inspected the brand new set that I fitted....

I'll try and keep this as short and factual as possible. The car is almost completely standard with points and distributor but SU fuel pump converted to electronic points 8 years ago. The first sign of a problem was in Oct.2022 when the engine cut out whilst going through roadworks at 40mph. It then...

Is it the electronic part thats failed?......There isnt nuch to go wrong in the electronics.....if it is then you could get another electronic board from our member Marek....or replace the component parts yourself...or convert it back to non electronic ........Steve I believe so as the failure has ...

Hi All, I have an original style SU fuel pump that I converted to electronic points myself using the Burlen kit. The pump has been working fine for about 8 years but has just failed. I had expected the electronic conversion to be more durable than that. Are my expectations too high? Should I be grat...

13/16 AF spanner or socket is useful for the fuel line banjoes

Apologies for the thread revival; I've searched all of the horn push threads but can't find what I'm looking for. I am restoring 2 horn pushes. One I believe to be S1 ( chrome ring 54300576, brass contact ring on 54300754, copper plate 54300575) the other I believe to be S2 (black ring, no horn cont...

They will all fit AND start the engine. After that I’m happy !

Presumably any of these would also be suitable?:-
https://www.tayna.co.uk/Car-Batteries-S ... &A-5=IMG-3

44DHR wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 14, 2021 9:27 am

the Halfords HB030 which at nearly £20 cheaper at £80,(June 2021),

now £120!! up 50% in 18 months!

Thanks all for your advice. I tried heating the brush with a small blow torch so it was certainly hot, maybe too hot. Part of the problem is that the notch on the back has disappeared. I think I’ll try a brush with shunt wire + glue.

Thanks Steve, Yes, they are the same ones and the problem is the same as described in the TR forum. TBH I'm not 100% sure if the soldering problem is my lack of skill or material incompatibility. I'm torn between spending £100-170 on a replacement or trying to repair it with a shunt wire + glue.

mgcjag wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 02, 2023 7:19 pm

Whats the problem soldering......can we try to help...Steve

The solder doesn't seem to adhere to the carbon brush. I just wondered if anyone else had had any success doing this? I'm not sure how robust the design is and how frequently they fail?

Yes, I’m all over carbon brushes on eBay but the problem of soldering them to the copper springs remains.
I agree, it would be nice to be able to buy the soldered brush + spring assembly as a spare.

I have been trying to repair the motor of the windscreen washer pump for my '67 S1.5 for the second time with little success. The carbon blocks have come off the copper springs. The first time I did it I bought a spares or repairs unit and salvaged the carbon brushes on the copper springs. Reluctant...