The 'E' Type Forum

Ok thanks , that makes it easy - Ali sheet is cheap and easy to shape . I think £ 10 should cover it - the parts suppliers were asking up to £ 110 ...that`s what I call a profit margin !

I just realised I`m missing this panel ( fits under the battery area , LH ) part # BD 27427 . Checked out the usuals and they seem a bit expensive considering it`s just a bit of stamped thin sheet metal . I thought about making my own , the thing is - is this just aluminium , or some kind of alloy ?...

Ask for some credit back from the supplier - £ 20 / hr for your time taken to correct the mistake

Buy a good one or be prepared for some big bills ! It`s nearly always more cost effective to let someone else pay for restoration .Inspect potential purchases carefully before buying and either know what you`re looking for or take along an expert . 2+2 s are cheaper ( particularly the S2 ) and more ...

I had no end of difficulty getting that rubber seal back in place until I put my hand and arm into and inside the plenum box - then it`s easy to ease into position over the retaining lip - job done in seconds

Hi Malcom , no it`s the brake fluid res. that is going down and I can see the small leak around the brake pedal . That MC on E-Bay looks good value at £ 50 vs. the SNGB at over £ 300 . Only snag is , the E-Bay one has no reaction valve . Can the system work without the RV ?

Hi , just noticed the brake fluid level has dropped a bit , so checked in the footwell and there is a slight leak where the brake pedal rod enters the MC . SNGB have a MC repair kit for around £ 15 . Will this do the trick ? I`m slightly disappointed as I`m sure it had a new brake MC fitted 3-4 yrs ...

Same thing happened to me , so I bought a new ignition lock and key so I could change it if it burnt out . I also made a tool to unscrew the chrome ring using a small block of wood into which 2 small pins were inserted .

Get some new manifolds and new stainless studs - the ones in the pic look well corroded .

Or you can reverse the bump stops which gives a few extra mm clearance .

£ 4000 sounds like quite a lot - that`s over 60 hours of work at the usual rates they charge . Maybe offer a good will payment of £ 500 ?

If you can`t find a new key , you can always buy a new ignition lock which comes with it`s own key .

CP seems like a bit of a nut job . I used to like him when he was on Springwatch , I`ll be avoiding any of his stuff from now on . I hope the Beeb cuts ties with him , I`d hate to think he was still getting license fee money .

What we need is some German efficiency here

OK , my 2 cents worth ....I think posts like this are excellent - we should complain when parts are sub-standard . In the UK we don`t tend to complain enough :| If we all keep quiet , how are things ever going to improve ? One example ... Ordered a vac capsule from one of the usual suspects ( name w...

Here`s an idea - why not check parts before sending them out to the customer , it would save a lot of time and hassle .

Retarded ignition timing ( as used on some of the US spec cars ) can make engines run hotter . Even with ordinary settings , the engine turns petrol and air into heat and noise , and a bit of power as well :mrgreen: . On a hot day , after putting the car back in the garage , it can take several hour...

Welcome back . Let us know how the engine rebuild went .

If considering an import , take into account what it will cost to get it back to UK spec. --- LHD - RHD conversion diff swap / ratio change / 5 speed gearbox Strombergs - SUs Paying a specialist to do the above might cost c. £ 15 k . Less if you DIY . Also , some of the " rust free imports " may not...

My quote last year was £ 200 from Lancaster , agreed value and 3000 miles limit .