The 'E' Type Forum

Thanks Colin,

Now I can calculate the ratio from wheel to speedo cable instead of trying to measure it.

Paul

Thanks a lot for measuring and the images Randall, it helps. If anyone has taken a picture of the front and back frames before adding the iiner, like these from the cant rails, that would be great. To see the details. Paul https://i.postimg.cc/g0rx1x9Q/cant-rails.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/nhSzKnsk/17...

My car did not come with the headliner frame bits, so I will need to make these myself, unless someone has some spare cant rails, a front headliner frame and a rear tuck plate for a S3 2+2 :bigrin: I did find pictures of the cant rails, but it is difficult to find info on the other 2. Some pictures ...

Thanks Bill, So I checked my angle drive ratio to confirm the 2:1 factor, but I have a 1:1.27 (hand shifted, no overdrive, just another non original part I think). I was hoping to calculate the overall ratio from wheel to speedo cable (get rid of the gear play and cable flex), but the gear ratio's a...

Does anyone know what the ratio is between the speedo driven gear and the driveshaft?

I get 1 revolution at the speedo cable for 2 revolutions of the driveshaft. Just wondering where the ratio comes from, because I read that the angle drive is 1:1 (or 1:1,27)

Thanks,
Paul

Got it Marek, I reattached the 4 vacuum gauges at the manifold and I get about 42-46 kpa when I adjust the carbs with the flowmeter. So the flowmeter and vacuum correlate pretty well. I wanted to get a better idea of lean or rich, so I bought a Hantek HT25 probe and connected to the scope to see the...

Thanks Marek, I meant the 500 rpm as a figure of speech. It is a good sign that it is possible, I think. But it is not stable and too lean. The manual says 650 to 750 (it does not mention the retard, but I assume it is with). Your input is clear, more vacuum at the carbs is more fuel at a given rpm,...

So I have been balancing the carbs and I can get it to run as low as 500rpm when the engine is warm but it is not very steady and something does not add up. I have (on all 4 carbs) 1) carbs in max rich needle position. 2) when I lift the air valve rpm goes down, it likes to stall 3) turn the idle se...

Thanks Marek, I think you are spot on. I had also wondered if the intake length difference could be a factor. I had adjusted the carbs equally before starting, or so I thought, but it was not good enough, clearly. My limited experience is with K-jetronic and that does not help at all. Today I tried ...

Yes, I used the cam setting tool. Logic does not seem to apply, but I sure it does once the issue is sorted. A possible, yet unlikely, explanation would be a (considerable?) air intake leak at the inlet manifold near A1 and A6. It explains the lower airflow into the A carbs and the wrong air/fuel mi...

Bend valves were at A6 and B6. Valve gaps all set. I did not have the cams checked. Do you mean the bend valves might have damaged the cam? The valves were lightly bend and there was a small mark in the cylinders. So it was not too bad. I have no idea how that may have happened. It might have been d...

Hi All, The engine had 2 bend valves when I got it, so that needed fixing. The heads did not look great so I had them resurfaced as well, new valves, replaced the timing chain and tensioner, new SNGB ignition. Well I rebuild most, but let the pistons be because those looked good. Started the engine ...

Hi Bill, Marek, My assumption was that the uprated springs were the same stiffness as the original. Why would you want to change the original jag specs because that will change the ride? Disappointing in a way. But I guess you are right. These are different springs with their own instructions. OEM c...

19" isn't the usual Setting Link centres. The 19.563" was specified for the earlier cars and 19.25" for later cars. I know, but I assume that the difference in ride height due to these small link lengths differences would be smaller than can be adjusted at the torsion bar cam lever? The original di...

Hi Paddy, Looks like a top notch S3 restore you have going on. May I ask which torsion bars you are using? The uprated ones from SNG require a pre-tension and this I think would damage the wishbones if left without shock or linkage attached due to the strong downward force. I was able to remove the ...

Hi Chris I have had the same questions and got this schematic for the SNG ballast resistor. The original system used the ballast resistors to get a stronger spark during cranking. I guess the spark is now always strong, so that is not needed anymore. I am not fitting this new ballast resistor anymor...

Hi Bill, I bought these at SNG and in the catalogue it says: "UPRATED TORSION BAR PAIR. These are .88 diameter and are not handed. Setting link required to fit.19” eye to eye. Aircraft quality high alloy steel." So even though I am inclined to agree with what you say about these being much stiffer a...

Does anyone know the difference is between the S3 before 1S70412 (no pre-tension on the bars needed) and the later S3 (pre.tension on the bars)? Were different bars used? The suspension parts look the same in the manual. I have now finally put the car (1S74729, so with 1 spline rotation of pre-tensi...

Just to follow up, I ended up putting back the original starter motor. This has good clearance. The high torque version does not fit on this car with the older block and newer flywheel. Apparently this mixing of parts does add some tolerance, although I would not expect that from these parts to this...

In the S3 the starter motor mounts directly to the engine block. Here a picture of the 29mm pinion where the black retaining ring floats (just) above the 160 teeth flywheel (the pinion itself might hit, but we know it is the wrong size): https://i.postimg.cc/fyDJ0zyd/IMG-0082.jpg And the SN indicate...