The 'E' Type Forum

This question has been much debated. Not one to eschew controversy, I'll put in a word for the original gloss porcelain look, which is not only original but distinctively beautiful. I owned an XK 150 from 1964 to 2012, drove it hard and put many miles on it. The original porcelain manifolds, for me,...

I concur with Paul that, if you have the ability to cut a small piece of wood with matching grain and glue it in place, that is optimal. Does take skill though. Good luck with Ebay.
Day

I saw that you had a number of responses to this question on another forum, so I did not respond there. I have very recent experience restoring an original wheel that had such a nick. I agree with those who said that, if you can return it for a refund due to shipping damage, you should definitely do...

I don't mean to offend, but although in my 50+ year career of working on Jaguars I sometimes tend to "overdo things," it was always my impression it was generally the conventional wisdom to leave these alone if possible, as Hugo suggested. I have done so on several occasions with my E and not had a ...

The much better ideas already mentioned are far more likely. But just in case I thought I would mention that a needle dropping out of an SU piston can lead to some serious head scratching. Ask me how I know.

From 1964 to 1973 I very satisfactorily used an XK 150 as a daily driver. That was obviously some time ago. I think it depends very much on where you live and how much risk you are willing to take, both with respect to theft or damage to the car and inconvenience in the event of mechanical problems....

Back in November 2013 I innocently raised the question of what color the aluminum number tags on the tops of the float bowls of the SU carbs were. This question stemmed from the fact that the original tags on the carbs on my XK150 were blue anodized aluminum (trust me, they were blue in pictures goi...

Bob, Especially since you are in the US, I would use one of the usual major vendors. Although I just installed it last spring, I bought mine from Barratt about three years ago. I think they are all comparable and use the same cheap and reliable Nippondenso motor. Don't forget the access panel for th...

I put mine in a 4.2 but yes, the correct position has that terminal quite close to the block - but not too close. Some folks weld/epoxy the upper mounting nut and lock washer to the starter. I didn't and found that nut surprisingly hard to get to, despite the fact that it is in plain sight and seems...

Recently I searched fairly diligently, to no avail, for the brass three ? way brake fluid pipe connector (one pipe in, one pipe out and the third outlet for the stoplight switch) which mounts on the firewall of my 1967 Series 1 OTS so the stoplight switch faces forward out from the firewall at a 90?...

Very interesting materials, David. My 67 OTS has the C25256 and a non-collapsible column, although it is certainly possible it is a replacement. So, if I'm understanding this correctly, for Alan's benefit, the part number C16451, number 30 in the diagram you posted, David, actually cancels unit C252...

Alan, As I believe I mentioned before, both the C25254 and C25256 I obtained from Barratt have the metal fingers. On the C25256, the white plastic canceling ring is integral with the unit, which encircles the steering column, unlike the C25254. With the C25254, it must be a separate part, so you sho...

I'm getting a little confused as to whether we are all in sync here. The picture I posted is of my original unit. The metal finger, number 30 in the diagram that David posted, locates the white plastic ring which then , in turn, rotates with the inner steering column and contacts the two metal slive...

Wow, Alan, it is an entirely different unit. I picked up the Lucas repair kit a while ago, when it was advertised as repairing the Series 1 units. I don't think it will fit my controller but was meant for one like yours. In any event, if your inner upper steering column looks like the diagram David ...

My steering column has the item numbered 30 in David's diagram. It is attached to the steering column, rotates with the column and engages with, positions and rotates the white nylon ring in my photo, which performs the cancellation function. Could you post a picture of your unit, Alan? I'm having t...

That's interesting, Alan. This was I believe the original unit on my '67 OTS number 1E15388. It is virtually identical in operational design to the control on my 1959 XK 150. Barratt sells C25254 and C25256 for the Series 1. I have seen them both because I incorrectly bought the 25254 and needed to ...

Here is a picture of the Lucas 54325591 " kit." It appears that the plastic arms are meant to handle the canceling function. I'm not sure this kit applies to my indicator control, since I have never needed to try it, but it may work for yours. https://www.dropbox.com/s/douigopd1d1ikg0/IMG_0541.JPG?d...

I'm getting increasingly curious and wondering if your indicator control could be different than those I am familiar with. What plastic lugs are you referring to, the ones that anchor the small coil springs? Attached is a picture of my unit when I began rebuilding it this spring. (Notice I had to re...

I know there are at least two types of Series 1 indicator control units, although I believe they are designed similarly. With care, they are not hard to rebuild and last quite well. I also, unfortunately, had bad luck with a replacement from Barratt. There is a Lucas service part called Spring Bushe...

I thought I would share a recent experience. My '67 OTS, which was running superbly, suddenly developed a serious misfire. Since it has a Mallory dual point, known for destroying condensers, my first thought was to change the condenser and then swap in a new coil. This did not cure the problem. Havi...