The 'E' Type Forum

I couldn't find a data sheet for the dimmer, but one commenter on Amazon said he took one apart and the are three field effect transisters inside. My limited reading on Wikipedia suggests that FETs have an inherent resistance to voltage spikes. So maybe the little dimmer is a sort of blocking device...

Id guess your dimmer device is a variable pulse width modulator type. It very rapidly turns the leds on and off. By varying the relative off and On times the dimming is achieved. If it works then fine. Could you (or perhaps Marek or Ray) speculate as to whether a PWM type dimming device (I'm sure y...

Thanks, Julian. The dimmer device in the photo is presently installed in the tach and speedo circuit, which is indeed "floating" in my installation. It works well in reducing the light intensity. I have no idea if it also serves the function of a limiting driver. (I do know the selected/reduced ligh...

The simple answer is they are not really suitable for use in a vehicle. BOTH sides of the LED bulb here to be isolated from ground. They seem to limit at 350/700/1000 mA which will be for high power leds that will be far too bright for instrument lighting. Buy well designed (not cheapo) led bulbs d...

I can't figure out how to wire the PT4115 driver described in the link attached to Post #4 above, but I'm guessing it or something like it is at the heart of the installation ready devices described in this link. http://www.luxdrive.com/content/2008B-PowerPuck.pdf The input wiring to this driver/buc...

David, Several years ago and in the same timeframe that I installed the strip LEDs in the tach and speedometer, I built several LED strip light arrays for the boat. At the time, properly stabilized individual bulbs were extremely expensive. My strip light arrays for the boat were all burned out with...

I'm listening! I used LEDs in the instrument lighting circuit only. I missed the caution regarding installation of a device like the PT4115. So far I've had no "bulb" failures in the LED instrument lighting circuit, but I guess it's just a matter of time. Failure of the strip lights in the tach and ...

It clears the leading edge of the body seal. The door window frame seal is trimmed back in the area of the mirror bracket. Beats dings down the side of the car, and the window frame seal is simple to replace.

I'm using the Tex clip-on, but modified the mounting such that it slides/loops over the leading edge of the window frame instead of gripping from the trailing edge. This keeps it somewhat attached even if it should come loose. The modification involved slicing the bracket lengthwise, and welding in ...

Interesting discussion. My car is 889474. The radio console is the early style with chrome speaker bezels. It uses the brackets BD19049/19050. It does not have the lower mounting studs on the chassis tunnel (or evidence that they were removed). It has arm rests. The ash tray is the interim "oval wit...

Dirt in the fuel tank could be accumulating on the fuel "sock' at the end of the pickup tube when the engine is running. Falls away when the suction stops. Begin again when the pumps starts drawing fuel. (Assumes the pump is functioning, of course).

The J64 on the title for my Texas registered car indicates it was original sold and titled in California.

My car has Sumitomo 205/65 AS PO2 tires (H rated) on the front and their 205/70 touring tire on the rear. With a 3.07 final drive ratio, the speedometer error is very small (less than 4% by my calculation). The front tires are very responsive with excellent grip. Can't say much about the rear. Steer...

I urge you to use the seal kit from Terry's instead of the one from SNG. The one in my car is absolutely leak free. (Presumably your engine builder knows to machine the crank for the new seal...different dimension depending on which kit you use).

This old racing photo comes to mind when the subject of E-type bump stops arises....

The trick for me was to use Allen head screws and a short extension.

I removed and replaced the water pump (three times) last year without jacking the engine. With the pulley fasteners removed, the pulley itself can be maneuvered aside such that all pump bolts/nuts can be undone. Then wiggle the pump (with pulley) around until the magic position is achieved where the...

Yes, it appears to be the same as Aramaflex. It's generically called foam weather stripping in the U.S. Black, rectangular cross section, adhesive on one edge...very inexpensive.

After an ill-fated attempt to fit rubber seals from the usuals I took the approach depicted in the first portion of this video. Rolls of rectangular foam seals are available (in the U.S.) from any home improvement store. It comes in the exact width to fit the channel and in various thicknesses. Per ...

mgcjag wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 22, 2018 4:58 pm

With the engine in and no bonnet just jack under the lower wishbone to compress the suspension and install the shocks... Steve

I tried that and still had to add weight to get the suspension to compress enough to get the bolts in.