The 'E' Type Forum

. Is there an easy way to find out whether she is still positive earth or negative before I cook something wiring it up for a start? Positive and negative lead acid battery electrodes are different sizes. The positive terminal is bigger in diameter. So if you have the clamp fittings still attached ...

Sdinse wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 21, 2020 12:22 am

Have you seen the "S III ROM & Parts Manual Errata" doc

Can you post a copy here please or send it to Heuer for the KB.

Ta

Jack if you did a leak down instead would that show up a leak?

The new one I bought recently from SNGB was hammertone.

You can remove the timing cover without removing the head but you do need to remove the sump. As Christopher says, getting the sump off in situ isn't usually a really big deal. You might wreck the front part of the head gasket though, especially if the engine is old, as opposed to a fresh rebuild. W...

Fits the manifold.

I shall install into my 3.8.

AussieEtype wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 06, 2020 1:44 am

Series 3



Garry

See? There's you answer.

Sander is my bet.

I keep thinking that it couldn't be that hard to remanufacture those splines.....

paulsco wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 05, 2020 5:40 pm

turning down the area around the head to effectively lengthen the pin

This is what I do. I use a little collet so I can hold the pin in the lathe and I take about 2mm off the shoulder which is just enough to peen the end.

1. Use a syringe to try to squirt fluid from the reservoir hose into the front circuit with the front caliper bleeder open. Note that the front and rear systems are entirely separate and so make sure you are squirting the fluid in from the correct reservoir hose. If this works, do both sides and the...

The fulcrum blocks are the pieces that holds the rubber bush for the fulcrum shaft front and rear. They are not handed. AFAIK the axis of the fulcrum shaft is at right angles to the machined base of the fulcrum block. The front TB spline goes into the Front Lower Wishbone Arm. Like the TBs themselve...

I don't see the LWB car being any easier to get in and out of than the SWB cars. They are. We finished off a S1.5 2+2 resto about 3 months ago. I'm 6'1 and 110kg with a gammy knee, and I can tell you getting in and out of that car is a dream in comparison to a FHC, especially when you do it 20 or 3...

peters3103 wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 04, 2020 7:56 am

Thanks Andrew, you know my Auntie that well?

Well she does stand out in a crowd...

They're the correct gaskets and probably good quality.

As they're thick and compressible they should cope with any pitting etc from corrosion. Spray them with Hylomar and Bob's your hairy Auntie.

I had an order to put in this week so out of curiosity I bought a C3731/1* thermostat for £20. I have a spare 3.8 water rail on the shelf so I shall see if it fits in it and report back. I asked if it would fit and received this reply "Hi Andrew Yes this will fit the 3.8 E-Type, as long as the bypas...

Spray hylomar is certainly easier to use. In the past we have used a variety of things including nothing, Loctite 515 and blue RTV silicone to dress the manifold gaskets. We've not had problems with a leak at the inlet manifolds and that's got to be 20 cars since I started working with the boys arou...

I assume that the sprocket plate is tight enough, but I don't really know for sure. The other ends are plugged with either a bolt or the drive for the tacho generator. I have 2 pairs of original S1 cams at home; they are not threaded. I don't have any later cams. Here's a picture of two S1 car heads...

I have tried this a number of times without much success. If the arm won't move it may be that it is corroded where it pivots. You can buy nichrome wire but you need one that has the same resistance per inch or your calibration will go out the window. You could fit a potentiometer and calibrate it t...

I've not seen plugs on the front of the cams. If Kent provide them though, I see no problem with fitting them as they can't fall out of they get loose. I would however use the correct original bolts to fit the cam sprockets. They are a bolt with an unthreaded shoulder and so positively locate the sp...

Someone has to buy it to make it worth 150k.