The 'E' Type Forum

The other thing to do prior to fitting your conduit is to use a file or a Dremel and enlarge the holes for the wires.

“ Was it a good job would be a better question. :banghead:” While this is probably a good question, the problem with the answer is that most of us couldn't tell one way or the other. There's another thread running at the moment where the suggestion is that the OP has been "guided" into a perhaps un...

Keith can you clarify some things for me? Your initial thread seems to be about the failure of a carbon clutch thrust bearing. I can't quite work out whether this thread relates to a subsequent failure of the same thing or whether you are now concerned about the half moon metal thrust bearings in th...

mgcjag wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 03, 2020 7:52 am

Hi Nigel.....I would actually check what cam you have fitted

Good advice. I was trying to find that link for you...

As stated you probably have the later cams on your car which means a much wider gap. While using shims under the minimum thickness isn't ideal, if this is just a temporising measure until you get your valve seats redone it should be ok. I wouldn't try doing this at home. You will be able to get cust...

To the OP.

60's Jaguar wiring is all colour coded, and to be honest, it's not too hard.

All you need is a bit of courage, a voltmeter, an ohmmeter and little common sense.

Have a go. You'll enjoy it.

"Mobile"

265bhp wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 30, 2020 11:10 am

Help please

Thanks
Jonathan

Common problem.

The solution is to use superglue to attach the rubber to the light prior to fitting it to the car.

Once you have taken the pin out check the manual to ensure you have the engine stabiliser correctly adjusted as well.

Hi Bill.

How does your CNC machine cope with the hardening in the socket?

Yes the baseplate needs to rotate.

The total additional advance will depend on the capsule you bought. There should be a stamping on it telling you how much advance you get at what negative pressure.

edriver wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 27, 2020 5:59 am

To me it looks like a mismatched pair of front and rear overriders.

I think both over riders have the 2 holes for the motif bar mount so they are front.

Gfhug wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 27, 2020 8:10 am

Andrew has very good points about how to go about the task

Geoff

On account of having been annoyed by what should be a simple task more than once

Robbiee wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 27, 2020 8:07 am

Have you got the correct brake discs fitted?

That's where my money is.

The box filler plug is on the left side. It's a hex head with a fibre washer. To get the level you put oil in until it starts to leak out the filler hole. A "Tom Thumb" type oil pump is the best choice. The box holds 1.7l. If you're going to the trouble of doing this, I'd drain your oil and replace ...

From the picture, yes, your overriders are quite different shapes.

FWIW the small angle piece that the motif bar attaches to may cover some of the gap.

Tom W wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 26, 2020 8:30 pm

The mesh is original. It’s there to protect the radiator.

..and the welding between the panels is not.

Play in these splines is actually a pretty common problem. What you get is a slightly vague feel at highway speeds in a straight line, and the car wanders. It can actually be pretty subtle. In my experience it's not gross wear in the splines per se, but rather because it's actually hard to get enoug...

SNGB wet 2FP dry.

I could run some kerosene through the 2FP if anyone was interested.

johno560 wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 22, 2020 9:02 am

Yes, but the issue is why should a modern solid state pump need to draw more current than a 60 year old design

Cheers

John

Just went into the garage.

My SNGB pump pulls 3.8A.

A 2FP pulls 0.98A.