The 'E' Type Forum

peters3103 wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 19, 2018 1:25 am

The question is, with the upgraded radiator, will the original fan be up to the job in 35C plus temperatures?

I don't think so. I'm in Adelaide and I have a Coolcat fan on my 3.8 which has an aluminum radiator. My car will get pretty hot sitting in traffic in hot weather even with the Coolcat.

Good man!

The machine shop did say that they cleared a lot of rubbish but there. Is clearly residue left It is a frustrating job, not the least because it is hard to see the bottom of the stud holes. You just have to persevere. Our machinist hot tanks the blocks and then sandblasts the water galleries. It is...

The likelihood is that the threads at the bottom of the holes in the block still have some crap in them. We have a zero taper tap brazed onto a long rod that we use to clean them. It's just a matter of repeatedly passing the tap, blowing out the threads, scraping out the bottom of the hole with a sc...

Short stud or long stud block?

They do a 185/80/15.

1968 cars had induction tachos so no tacho generator.

I agree with Christopher. In addition, you are best to use 8:1 pistons as machining of the block and head over the years will potentially make your compression too high with 9:1 pistons.

The better way which involves more engineering is to bore the block and use top hat liners which eliminate the cracks completely and also have the advantage that the block can be returned to standard size We do this routinely on all 4.2 block rebuilds. It doesn't add a huge amount in terms of the o...

My brother in law is a diesel mechanic and has a seriously big-ass lathe. First I mounded and trued the backplate with a dial gauge. Then I bolted the bell housing from my Moss box to the backplate. I centred it using a dial gauge on the outer rim of the largest cutout. I got it centred to within 2 ...

And here I am doing it.

https://youtu.be/uNFfRA3S_uM

I drive maybe 1000 miles per year in each of my cars.

I change the oil every year.

I use Valvoline 20W/50 because it is cheap.

ALAN COCHRANE wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 05, 2018 8:19 am

Andrew

I have the braided hose pipes.

We have stopped using them. They are some sort of hydraulic fitting which is OK for transmitting pressure but no good for flow. The orifice diameter is considerably smaller than the original and flow is proportional to the 4th power of the radius.

FWIW do you have the original cam oil feed pipe fitted or did you go with the braided replacment style? The braided hoses have a smaller ID and deliver less oil.

GEG258* CONVERSION GSKT SET 1 16.07

CG571 HEAD GASKET SET 1 39.90

From a recent invoice for my 3.8. Price is ex VAT.

Never heard that boise but if it's cam related it should occur at half crank RPM.

Some of the 2+2s have a separate lock.

Helpfully, the replacement door skins don't have the hole for this either.

I carefully grind the old ones off using a linisher or bench grinder. As the plastic heats up it tends to soften. I work at one side until I can twist them off. To install the new ones I gently heat the metal of the switch with a propane torch. You don't want to get it very hot; just enough to brief...

mgcjag wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 26, 2018 8:33 am

Hi Lee... contact http://www.speedograph-richfield.com located in Nottingham.....explain what you have and they will let you know what can or cant be done.... Steve

What he said WRT the tacho.

And Mike Exk for the clock.

Mine is the upper one.