The 'E' Type Forum

mxke wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 26, 2020 11:21 pm

All but one cotter pin was still in the castellated nut.

Replace all of them with new bolts and nuts.

I see you plan to replace the conrod bearings. Have you replaced the main bearings as well?

Check that the jets are centred.

http://premierautotrade.com.au/news/images/ignition-condensers/FAST-5-Typical-Points.jpg This is a very simplified diagram showing a typical ignition circuit with points. The negative terminal of the battery connects to the car chassis (earth), and so does one side of the points, making the circuit...

Brute force, bad language and a second pair of hands.

I was thinking more of propane or oxy acetylene. But maybe that's just me...

The valve seals onto the pipe with a rubber seal which is compressed between the valve and the spacer.

Yours has probably just fossilised. Enough rotation force should break it but you want to be careful you don't snap off the pipe.

A bit of judicious heat might help.

Like you I think that the stamps on the caps are the initials of the engine builder and numbers to identify which cap goes where.

I haven't seen stamping on the head like that.

In a recent thread I found out that the engine number is stamped on the crank in early cars as is shown on yours.

In my experience they're never needed. As above they're there to stop the carbs hitting the tops of the engine frames. This probably happens if the mounts are a bit saggy, if the engine is rotated slightly or if the frame rails aren't properly aligned. In that situation they'll jack up the right sid...

Dwell angle and point gap are measuring the same thing. The dwell angle is the number of degrees in the rotation of the dizzy that the points are closed. So as you say the wider the gap the smaller the angle. As the dwell angle is a functional rather than metric measurement of the point gap it's lik...

It's interesting that if you look at this post http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php? ... 36#p114203 the pictures show the cable running around the top frame until it gets to just above the starter and then dropping down from there.

This is a RHD 4.2 car.

Sorry Tadek I don't think so. My cars are RHD.

I'll have a look at my picture collection and see if anything pops up.

Might be worth asking on the US forum too if you haven't already.

Bottom rail.

Runs from the battery to the starter switch mounted on the top of the LHD rail, down to the bottom, around the front and then back along the lower rail of the RHD frame to the starter.

A final comment about stainless steel hardware. Stainless has a number of downsides in comparison to the grade 5 or 8 high tensile bolts used in the E Type. Firstly, it's non magnetic. So you can't pick it up with a magnet and it won't stick to your magnetised tools. Secondly, it has nowhere near th...

265bhp wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 18, 2020 9:07 pm

Good guess...
however within this whole episode I had one piece of luck and that is that with the endoscope I managed to find the washer...in that front compartment

YAAAAAYYYYYYY!!!!!!!

My bad. What you want is glazing rubber https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#/UK/parts/8998af5f-6060-4b0f-b9f9-54df797a89d3?fromList=Related%20Products&fromCategory=671575d4-e700-46da-9289-ebd64abdbb3a Note that it comes in a number of different thicknesses, depending on what window you are using it ...

If you are capable of removing the IRS yourself then you are capable of doing 90% of the work yourself and saving yourself a fortune. I would estimate a £5000 bill for a fully rebuilt IRS. Strip it down. Send the diff off to Alan S. £1000. While you're waiting, strip everything else. Get the frame s...

SNGB make finding parts a breeeze. Go here https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/English/Downloads and download the current 6 cylinder catalogue as a pdf. Drill down to S2 > rear quarter lights and trim. Find the seal; #7 on the diagram. Search SNGB site for BD 20500/4 https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/...

but...me being me, I am going to try and get that sump off....without removing the reaction plate Best J Fair enough. It's entirely doable. You need to rotate the engine so as to have the rear web of the crank positioned to give you maximum clearance. The sump should come off easily. Last time I di...

Yeah rereading this in the sober light of day I was trying a bit hard to make you feel better. Realistically though there's a big void down there and once it gets past the chains it'll sit happily in the sump forever. So if you can't see it nestling between chain and sprocket with your borescope I p...

Nah don't worry. It's in the sump and it's not going anywhere. If you really want to you can take off the sump and retrieve it. To be honest though, you can leave it and reconnect with it next time you rebuild the engine. PS there shouldn't be washers under the setscrews C2310 that hold the camshaft...