The 'E' Type Forum

Mike, You are right; I did feel the radiator core temperature when the fan was running, but also when it was off. I am still trying to get hold of a suitable temperature tester, but the problem remains that the otter switch has not got cool enough to switch off the fan. As for the thermostat, yes ag...

Steve,

It is a 65 Series One 4.2.

The reason for Series Two pulleys is they are single V, where as the Series One is double V.
I needed single V to run my air conditioning compressor.

Paul

I just thought I would update you on my progress or lack of, so far. There were a couple of things that I thought might be adding to the problem: To fit AC I had to modify the pulley system. I replaced the double V pulleys with single V and at the time, couldn’t get hold any Series Two water pump pu...

Thanks Chris and Tom, that was my thought. Strange that it worked before. The trouble is I have been altering one thing or another over the period of this rebuild and I cannot remember at what point the problem developed. It is probably when I fitted the Coolcat type otter switch, which is supposed ...

Thanks Angus,

The centrifugal advance works fine, but I have had to work on the vacuum advance; the hole at the carb was slightly blocked and the rubber elbow on the front of the vacuum advance canister was letting in air.
Unfortunately it still overheats:-(

Paul

I have checked the timing and that is correct. I still haven’t got hold of an inferred temperature tester to check my temperatures, but I decided to experiment by removing the condenser (not connected yet) to see if the flow of air through the radiator improved the situation. It had a minimal effect...

Thanks Layne, I set it about 8 degrees as I have 8:1 pistons, but Will try 10 degrees to see if it is any better. I have a suspicion that the vacuum advance may not be doing its work, so I will check that as well. Just to elaborate on my comments above re the radiator cap: I already have the long re...

Hi All, I have noted all your comments and am working through them. As the engine had been running normally until lately I decided to start with the things I had changed. I had the old thermostat (which I tested) and a spare gasket and it only takes a short time to change, I thought I would start th...

The respirator was a a paint spraying respirator, but as I say it was overkill, there was plenty of air flowing through :bigrin: No it wasn’t just throwing out the excess water, there was steam poring out as well. It emptied most of the water in the header tank and the temperature gauge went off the...

Hi All, I have checked again that the fan is pulling in the right direction and also the water level, which was slightly low, but not enough in my opinion to cause a problem. I did top it up though. I haven’t yet checked the timing. The top hose does get hot, so it would appear that the thermostat i...

Thank you all for your suggestions, I will check them all out tomorrow and feed back.

Paul

Hi Paul, Thanks for your reply. I have checked that the fan is pulling through the radiator into the engine bay. As for the pump; I rebuilt it when I was building the engine, but it is not impossible that it has a problem. There are no strange noises though and it is turning ok so nothing internal w...

I am about to take my E-Type on its first run after a very long restoration, but I am having concerns as to whether it is overheating or not. I have an uprated radiator with a Coolckat fan. I have a modified thermostatic otter switch as in the Coolcat/fosseway design and have fitted the ‘correct’ th...

Hi Andy,

It could be that your seat back is slipping off the hinged wedge seat raiser which are under the hinges on both sides. See my pictures in this tread.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=15911

Edit: it looks like I have just repeated what David said

Paul

This confirms the date of the carbs on my 65 FHC, which I had some suspicion may have been from an earlier car.

C4 6; (I thought it was C46), but Andrews information seems to confirm 1965




Paul

Hi Richard,

Chrisfell has mentioned pitted tappets in another thread, which may be of interest.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=16314

Paul

Hi Luke, They are sort of spot welded to the frame. They can be cut out and re used, but I think I did as Barrie suggested and turned up some new ones from 1/4 UNF bolts (set screws) and brazed them on. Having said that, it is a long time ago now and looking at my pictures, I may have re-used the or...

Hi Mike, I have done this many times during my restoration. I would suggest that if you want to move the top out, you leave the bottom outside bolt tight and loosen the others, if it’s the bottom you want to move out then keep the top outside bolt tight. This is far easier to do with the door card o...

Hi Mark,

Thank you for your additional information.

Paul

Hi Steve, The small spring I am talking about is in the nose of the reaction valve cover. https://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_159648324131813&key=e4fd14f5d7f2bb6d80b8f8da1354718c&libId=kdewqfue0102cns8000DA1ucott4z&subId=8882b87fb40d5cb4b93e934a6cfe93e7&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fforum.etypeuk...