The 'E' Type Forum

Mine were black textured vinyl, held in place with self tappers with cup washers.

I’ve got a couple of pics, but postimage seems to be preventing uploads.

Andy,
For the map light, I used a LED strip that screws to the underside of the dash top, in place of the original bulb holder. My car is with Angus at the moment so can’t show you it in situ, but this is the item:
https://www.bettercarlighting.co.uk/ind ... ductId=245

viewtopic.php?f=16&t=13409

Google classic car paint suppliers will get plenty of hits.

Eg
https://shop.autopaintsbrighton.co.uk/j ... -615-p.asp

Most classic car body shops should be able to get the colour you need.

I got all mine from Gil at bettercarlighting. All bulbs, apart from headlights and the ignition warning bulb (although you can go led for this with an additional inline resistor wire) are led. There are some issues that may arise, as David suggests, due to the way led’s operate. I had one where the ...

I used bungee chord rather than wire but same effect. Leaves both hands free to position/rivet in place.

Hi I wouldn’t take too much notice of the ‘official’ date/paint colour lists for the EType. For example, my car left the factory in OPalescent Golden Sand in Nov ‘63. This colour is not ‘listed’ as a standard E Type paint option until 1965. You could specify any Jag colour that was available and OGS...

As noted in an earlier post, getting the heater pipes and wiper mechanism in place in the bulkhead/ dash void should be done first - particularly the washer jets and their associated nylon hoses. I did those first, followed by the wiper mech, then the s/s heater pipes. If you are doing it on your ow...

Glad you got it sorted out. You are right, changing to LED bulbs can be a bit of a faff as we have both found out, it’s not just a case of replacing one for the other. However, the benefits in terms of brighter lights (stop lights much better) and less draw seem to be worth it in the end. I particul...

Yes, sorry the left side of the block as Peter noted.

It’s the ‘Jaguar’ and ‘3.8’ that’s on the right side.

I like shiny things

I’ve also invested in one of the spinner removal tools from Lionel so hopefully they’ll remain that way!

I’ve got three sets of AB1466/7 spinners that I’m sending off to Derby Plating next week, as per above post link.

Hi, You can also check the engine number on the flywheel as it should be stamped on it as well. There should be a casting date on the block. Your number suggests a late ‘62 build date so block Casting data may be around April 62. https://i.postimg.cc/65GXHRNv/0-E47731-B-E65-D-4303-B340-E4852-E7-F9-C...

Hi,
What is the engine number stamped above the filter housing. Also, there should be a casting date on the right side of the block, above and to the right of the filter housing.

For the record, I pointed out the increased flow pressure to them in Aug last year, when I had all the issues with flooding when I installed their pump and I posted their response in this topic. They insisted it was to spec. Until I installed a Malpassi regulator to reduce it to 2.8 psi, it continue...

Is it possible that whatever was rattling has fallen out/off the car when you went over the speed bump?

Hi Nassos and welcome. I have a bit of history with Triumphs as well, my first classic back in 1990 was a 67 Tr4a, followed by a 55 Tr2. Great cars. If you are contemplating a 3.8 FHC, then consider upgrading the brakes and cooling system - particularly given the temperatures in Greece! There is a b...

Hi Jerry I’ve been reading the posts a couple of time’s and I’m still confused. You asked for valve clearances to be checked and was told the cam(s) had worn through the hardened metal on the lobes. You went and had a look and your pics apparently show the evidence of the wearing. You’ve had another...