The 'E' Type Forum

Just a couple of thoughts, Have you considered taking the baffle out of the sump and clearing the gunge that maybe present What about changing the front crank oil seal whilst it’s all apart. Cheap item but maybe worthwhile. Umm, maybe then you could change the oil sump return hose and the fan belt m...

https://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php ... 0&start=40

This thread is worth reading. It’s mostly about front crank oil seal but some mention of cork vs neoprene at the rear end.

Tony, I’ve just read your post again. 5cm does seem a lot of excess. Mine was probably half old that when compared to the old oil soaked and broken cork seal. I have a picture which shows the comparison between old and new, if I can find it I will post it here. My kit of gaskets came with both types...

My new neoprene seal was similar to the difference in length to the old cork seal as you describe. The cork seal had gone hard and shrunk Once fitted in the seal recess just a small excess at each end was apparent I did not trim it and think that doing so will mean you have the joy of removing the s...

Agree, the sump isn’t the easiest thing to manoeuvre with limited room. Many years ago on my first e type I replaced the sump and the rear neoprene seal moved leading to a leak. I’ve learnt a bit since then and this time followed the tips on this forum and affixed the seal to the sump recess with a ...

Hi Steve, I removed the pulley and balancer but not the studs. Front of the sump dropped easily - not an issue. Rear of sump came down reasonably well. Waggling the little bollocks over the reaction plate just took a bit of time. The sump was clearly free. I did mine whilst on my back with axle stan...

My sump came down (twice!) when the woodruff key in the crank nose was at the 1 o’clock position when viewed from the front.

Went back in easily enough with crank in the same place. Reaction plate not disturbed.

Lots of threads on this some of which I have contributed to.
In my case the shipper was adamant that the Title must accompany the car. This was then provided to the DVLA in the UK in order to register the car.

Just noticed that this is now cancelled.

Tim

Mine is on the lower left hand corner of the picture frame not far from the junction where the front brake pipes meet

Makes me feel like a vandal - having drilled mine out!

To add to the confusion
:-

Mine is a 68 series 1.5 with an originally unpainted aluminium head. I prefer gold so painted it !
Also changed the cam covers to the smooth type - should have bought a series 1


Tim

Is the new wheel specific to fit the originally fitted boss. Motolita make e type specific wheels which have fixing holes designed to mate with the etype boss. Assuming that it is an e type specific wheel you wish to fit then, yes, carefully drill out the rivets. Use the supplied bolts and nuts. The...

I think that these are the pieces of trim that fit to the hinge covers for the rear door.

Thanks Barrie, Job done although those screws fixing the strap mighty hard to undo. Problem was very simply rectified, the two screws which secure the brass catch to the door strap had come loose. My guess being that the clacking noise was this brass piece moving as it touched the retainer. Simple c...

Evening gents. The drivers side door check strap on my OTS makes a strange clacking sound when the door is fully opened or closed. I think I need to get this out and change it. Can I remove this without taking the door off? I know it’s fixed by 2 screws which are accessible when the door card is rem...

If it’s of any use then I have a brand new unused later style crank spacer with the O ring fitted.
PM if interested

Tim

If you telephone Caerbont (who make the Smiths gauges) they will supply a mechanical gauge with a max reading of 60psi. Faceplate is just as the original electrically operated unit.

It’s a special order so you may have to wait.

I have one.

I had a leak from both the rear seal and the crankshaft oil seal. On dropping the sump it became apparent that the original cork seal at the flywheel end had deteriorated. I replaced this with the neoprene seal. Didn’t trim it all and used a smear of Wynns black gasket to secure it into the sump rec...

If anyone has a gastester they no longer want then I’m in the market for one.