The 'E' Type Forum

Chris : a blowlamp on low flame should do the job for you . Heat the bulkhead area where the lead is and use a wire brush - preferably stainless steel to brush the lead off. It usually rolls off easily under the action of gravity. If you are in any doubt ask Andy at hutsons who will tell you how to ...

What are the many parts needed according to the repairers. I ask because the usual problem with a rack is not anything fundamental, but wear of the bronze bush through which the rack shaft runs, allowing the rack to lift from the pinion . The bushes , so far as I know, are still available , and reas...

The blocks are identical . It is the sumps which differ between saloons and E types, hence the different dipsticks. Presuming you are using the correct E type sump, then the solution is fairly easy. There is nothing vague about the quantity of oil required : it is 8.5 litres /14.5 imperial pints fro...

rfs1957 wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 17, 2021 6:18 pm

I guess that the post about the 916, just above this, is another nail in the coffin of my youth - when people start collecting the models one used to sell.

It's even worse, Rory, when a car I had as my everyday car in 1996-2005 turns up in a classic auction - and it didn't sell

Right , Mike - I hadn't appreciated that you have two thrusts over their nominal size . I hesitate suggesting it, but you might try lapping down the backing of the oversize ones with valve grinding paste on a sheet of glass

There is something in the measurements here which does not add up . If with standard thrusts you have .008 of play, then with a nominal .004 ( but actual .006 ) oversize you should still have .002 of end float. That suggests to me a measurement error somewhere. You have been checking the end float w...

Well, there were far fewer RHD cars to start with, and the majority presumably now 60 years on have been restored or lost . If one looks on xkedata, a very significant proportion of the rhd cars listed are shown as having been restored

Benway : I have sent you a private message

Rory : you will not welcome this, but if you cannot eliminate the leak with new fibres, may I suggest you inspect the carb lid carefully, preferably under magnification, for a crack around the thread area

I think it is very very unlikely to be the pilot bush. In the first place the bush is phosphor bronze, IIRC of the oilite variety , and these last virtually for ever. More compelling is that if the shaft were running eccentrically, then you would virtually certainly have trouble in getting clean gea...

Andrew - what I meant was that if there is a grinding noise, then there is rotation, which with the clutch out i.e. pedal fully depressed should not be happening. Given the perennial problems with the slave cylinders, then far and away the most likely cause is air in the cylinder / cylinder failure/...

If you are getting a grinding noise then something is rotating , and this is a sure sign that it is not the gearbox at fault , but that your clutch is not releasing properly. Bleeding and adjustment of the slave cylinder pushrod would be the first thing I would look at

Interesting question ... only on Thursday, a friend of mine who is a well respected dealer in Jaguars was contrasting the current position , where the market is almost silent, with that of the first lockdown where he was quite busy. Mind you, cold, damp, icy, snowy conditions do rather dampen enthus...

I sympathise with Jeremy's question and his implied view . This is really a "special" based loosely on E type shape and mechanicals . I remember it well from Malcolm Hamilton's days when it was undoubtedly both noisy and fast , but not in truth terribly interesting because in execution it was so far...

One tip I would give is to photograph the entire set of parts together, including washers etc. , before you send them to a plater, and give the plater a copy of the photo - and do the same on collection - that way there can be no argument about what was delivered, or for that matter what is returned

John - I believe that what you need is an EP ( extreme pressure ) lubricant - I would have thought that EP molyslip or the like would do fine - castrol Spheerol epl2 is an example. Alternatively, you could use an EP90 oil but this is messier

Barry :apology accepted with thanks

Barry : I shall treat your risible abuse with the contempt it deserves

The story about this sign is hilarious

I don't know why we wasted our time !!