The 'E' Type Forum

bitsobrits wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 31, 2024 1:26 pm

find a used correct one ($$)

This would be what I'd do.

I've had the same experience as Chris.

Whether it was because I didn't know what I was doing or not I didn't find it helpful to tune my cars.

I do have a Gunson 4125 CO meter. This is an excellent aid to tuning, especially with triple carb setups.

It'll fit OK. Can't answer the question about harmonics.

There are shims C27177/x shown in the Parts Manual, but I'm pretty sure these are for centering the brake caliper.

I'm not sure if I've seen shims fitted between the steering arm and the stub axle, but I only have experience with S1 and S2 cars.

They're usually pretty level. As you say the accelerator is a bit lower but that is adjustable. You don't want it too low though. After some modifications the accelerator pedal on my MK 2 was maybe 1" lower than the brake. When sliding my foot across to the brake it would catch on the side of the pe...

It's steel so It's pretty tough; I haven't broken one yet.

Have a trial run with it on the bench.

You should be able to assemble the whole thing minus the pedal pads and install it from above. You can adjust the splined brake pedal with the assembly installed by undoing the pinch bolt and opening the splines with a big screwdriver or a chisel while lying in the footwell. From (distant) memory, t...

This is the second in the series.



Really interesting discussion about reusing big end bolts and split pinning them.

C18296 as Geoff says. Thin head is for clearance.

It also looks a bit like C17149 which is the radius arm bush bolt, but that's 1/2" in diameter, so I think Geoff's right.

This is the photo I have been looking for. So for posterity:

Motor has been fitted with new wires and converted to RHD.

That's what we in Australia call "circle work".

That's really good!

I assume you've seen http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/ If you google susearch3.xls you can download that tool; also very good. I have 4xHS8's on my XJS but I suspect the jetting will be totally different to the HIF44. If you can't work out a stock needle, Julian's recommendation of filing the nee...

The original bolts were UNC.

Even if you can't get it to run the PDF files for all of the sections in the manuals are there in the PARTS and SERVICE directories.

Not as convenient but should still be usable.

Just to clarify what's in there, these are Parts and Service manuals for

This is the inside of the motor on my 1964 S1 3.8 OTS.

It was LHD and I think this photo is from before I changed it to RHD.

Looking through my pictures, I think there are 2 wires; blue/green and blue.

The solid blue comes from the thermal cut-out switch inside the switch; the green/blue goes to the panel switch.

You can almost see this here:

I think you need the blue wire. Here's a couple of pics for you to ponder: https://i.postimg.cc/660fRcX4/E-type-diagram-6-wire-wiper-and-switch-01.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/5N2qmz47/E-type-diagram-6-wire-wiper-and-switch-02.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/YqDNDSjp/E-type-diagram-6-wire-wiper-and-switch-03.j...

On that subject, I've read that spending the extra € to get them nice enameled or similar, is a waste of money, after hot/cold cycles they'll look bad regardless? Personally I'd buy the unenameled ones and paint them with stove paint, but that's just me. I don't have any personal experience with mo...

Those look perfect, mine look too small diameter. Did the diameter change during series 1, maybe from 3.8 to 4.2? I think the manifolds with the small chamfered cut-out are from older, non E Type cars. Early MK2 3.4 and 3.8 for example. The pics Jaguar12 have put up are correct for the E type. Your...