The 'E' Type Forum

Hello Stuart, I have had no direct experience with the product, but copper is better at conducting heat than aluminum, although aluminum is able to radiate the heat into the air better than copper because of its lower density. The main reason for Heater Matrixes and Radiators being made of Aluminum ...

Bob Wrote: Presumably you would still leave it clamped up but with tiny end float like the rear hubs Hello Bob, Yes, the logic of the Spacer is that the retaining nut can be torqued up tight (but the split pin should still be used), thus clamping the bearings and spacer solid along the long axis of ...

Steve Wrote: note the spacer i show is for S1 S2 cars.....S3 have a different size axel and need a different size spacer. Hello Steve, The only difference between the Front Stub Axle for the S3 E and earlier E Types, is the length of the Thread that secures the Stub Axle to the Stub Axle Carrier and...

Fredrik Wrote: Drill them out? I have hardly ever been lucky with that and would hate to damage the threads. The trick is to start the drill in the centre of a surface that is irregular. If you have access to a Drill Press, set the Wishbone assembly up so that threaded hole is close to being concent...

Norton Wrote: Reverse shaft, from packing looks like NOS. But had expected it to be shiny but it is matt black. Supposed to be like this? Hello Norton, That's what the original Reverse Idler Gear Shaft should look like. The shaft was machined to finished size and then heat treated, probably Nitridin...

The following pictures are a pictorial explanation of the Rear Hub bearing adjustment. When the JD15 tool is an inexpensive tool to make, or have made, or a Spacer of suitable thickness can be used in lieu of and if your planning on doing maintenance on your car, you will already have a dial indicat...

Chris Wrote: I would like to know because we got a Ser 11 2+2 screen, but it was not for my car with increased rake. Hello Chris, Being a 1969 2+2, your car is a Series 2. If the windscreen you got is not for your car, then clearly, its not a Series 2 or 3 2+2 windscreen, which are the same. A large...

Scottie Wrote: So the Hub's position relative to the Hub Carrier is set by those 3 elements working together. That's clear. Scottie Wrote: Once set with desired Pre-Load, the Spacer is fitted of just the right thickness to maintain that Pre-Load. With regards to the desired Preload, how do you deter...

Scottie Wrote: The Hub is fixed relative to the Hub Carrier by the Outer Seal Seating Ring. With all die respect Scottie, I think some of your explanations could easily be confusing to the newbie to this exercise. The Outer Seal Track is part of the assembly, but its the Outer Taper Bearing, Cup and...

Scottie Wrote: it should be achievable to find the Spacer that is perfect for the zero End-Float condition and then replace that Spacer with one thicker by 0.002" or 0.001" and thereby creating a known Pre-Load. It is not rocket science. Hello Scottie, Perhaps a Freudian slip on your part, but for t...

Hello Steve, I concur with your comments completely. Dick's method is carried out with the outer seal installed and therefore, you have to be careful that the drag of the seal is not mistaken for pre-load. There is no concise description of what the correct setting should feel like and how much allo...

Mikael Wrote: Thanks all. I've decided what I'll do. I bought the Huck rivets, but since I welded new floors in before this (this is my first E-Type), I can't really use them and refuse to pay €€€ for the tool. So I found normal rivets that just fit in the holes, sturdy, will use them. Then I'll put...

Dal Wrote: The radius arm cup should not be welded to the floor. Please see a post by Chuck Hadley from Monocoque Metalworks. There is not viable engineering, or metallurgical argument to support Chuck's comment that welding these parts will lead to cracking. If that were the case, there are other s...

Mikael Wrote: You're right, the tool is (ridiculessly) expensive. Thinking about normal rivets and welding, I weld well. But have already bought the C6Ls... Hello Mikael, I see your car is a FHC. In that case, unless you're going to replace the superstructure that the Domes will attach to, you wont ...

Mikael As Christopher states, the factory used rivets; they are a threaded rivet called a Huck Rivet, but even the early cars had these mounting domes spot welded as well. The Huck Rivet requires a special application tool that is quite expensive to buy, but in most cases they can be hired for the o...

Hello Peter, As Steve suggests, the dimensions are listed, along with a drawing, in the S3 Repair Operation Manual. However, there are numerous mistakes in this manual, so don't take the listed dimensions as being Gospel and check the dimensions against a vehicle if you can. I know that at least dim...

Hello Danny,
What country will the consolidated cargo be coming from.

Regards,

Bill

Dennis Wrote: Can the shocks be removed without dropping the IRS. I cannot see the rear shock nut. If I remove the wheels, is everything accessible? Hello Dennis, R & R of the shock absorbed/spring assembly is a relatively easy exercise and doesn't require removal of the IRS. To replace the shock ab...

Randal Wrote:

Caution, Steve's picture is correct for a fhc & the opening should face the rear. It seems the 2+2 is different.

Hello Randal,
Yes, a totally different section of seal that also attaches to a different section of the "B" pillar.

Regards,

Bill

Carsten's car is listed as a 66 S1 2+2, with most of the replies relating to FHCs; the seals for these two models are totally different. The following picture show the sections of seals used with 2+2 cars https://i.postimg.cc/SKbxgmWj/Rubber-Seal-Sections1.jpg The correct seal for the "B" pillar is ...