The 'E' Type Forum

Use the circuit diagram to follow the path from the battery/alternator through every bullet connector, fuse and component on the path to the back of the car and see where your voltage drop occurs by measuring the voltage at each stage. Then you'll need to address what to do about it. A three volt dr...

It measures how much oxygen is in the exhaust gases, so the sensor has to go inside the exhaust, away from the influence of outside air. For people who have a permanent setup, a threaded bung is welded onto the exhaust and the sensor is screwed in not less than about one metre from the exhaust manif...

You might find this more useful. The bit at the top is the internals of the wiper motor. The bit in the middle is the plug/switch on the wiper motor body. The bit at the bottom is the switch in the cabin.
kind regards
Marek

Neither. The motor has more than one winding.
kind regards
Marek

The switch on the dash controls which way power will be applied to the wiper motor. The wiper motor runs fast when green connects to yellow. The wiper runs slowly when green connects to blue/green. The wiper parks when blue/green connects to red/green. There is a microswitch on the wiper body which ...

I'd echo that. If a car one ton car is jacked incorrectly, then roughly one ton of force, judiciously applied, should undo the damage. The tricky bit is clamping it and tightening it up so you can apply the force where it is needed.

kind regards
Marek

What Chris has done in post #37 is very sensible. The gauge only needs to be roughly right from 10-70 psi as the oil light will tell you if you have dropped below ~3psi (panic!) and the oil relief valve will cap the pressure at about 70psi on cold startups. To be frank, the gauge can't be more accur...

To test my gauge I put a potentiometer in line replacing the Sensor and I got roughly Pressure Reading 0 = 240 ohms 20 = 225 ohms 40 = 128 ohms 60 = 86 ohms 80 = 50 ohms I hope this helps, and welcome any suggestions if you think I'm on the wrong track This is roughly what you'd expect from the gau...

It's all one welded assembly. It's not like a single piece s1 or s2 picture frame. The s3 picture frame is a two part assembly. The top bar comes off very easily with just a few bolts, but the bottom three sides are a very heavily braced "U" shape and will need a substantial amount of work to remov...

No, "more vacuum" means the engine considers it a lighter, easier load.

If you run at 800rpm and the air pressure in the manifold is 50kPa, and then you make a change and it runs at 800rpm but at 45kPa, then the latter is the better setup, whatever that may be.

kind regards
Marek

With that last post, it now just sounds like a bit of neglect and corrosion over time. Unless you can see an obvious squigly black line of a crack somewhere, I'd simply clean things up and refill with water as Bill suggested. The head gaskets were the most likely path since they are steel and coolan...

Dear Paul, you don't want to set up the engine to settle at 500rpm. This will present a harder load to the engine and make it more likely to stall when it gets there. The manual probably tells you to aim for ~850 rpm as a default. By comparison, to land at 500rpm, you'd have to choke off the air sup...

All of the metal (aluminium) parts are several millimetres thick, so it's quite hard work to corrode your way through. The distributor sits on a level surface and if the car has been left out in the rain, water can accumulate and drain off to the lowest point. The chief suspect would always be a hea...

The water pump is bolted onto the front of the timing cover and the timing cover is pretty thick.
If it hasn't come through the head gasket, then what does the distributor look like?

kind regards
Marek

Sure... I am near Guildford.
It'll cost you one bottle of beer.

kind regards
Marek

From the description, you sound lean and retarded. One or the other, or a bit of both. So the whole A bank has been dismantled.... I'd take the throttle linkages apart and make sure the all four of the throttle butterflies are synchronised to the same gap and that they open up the same amount per si...

To find out, put a bag of frozen peas on the OPUS or temporarily patch in a spare unit and attempt a restart and report back.

kind regards
Marek

So either the rubber seals flex slightly differently in the time it takes to release pressure or there's a bit of rust on the piston which deters it from moving back. It all points to a strip down at some point. Why? It's not actually broken in any way and the brakes work.... If you find nothing whe...

On the rear brakes one pad runs true and close to the disc as it should be on the other pad , closest to the diff the pad has a definite clearance to the disc. Any thoughts, I’m loath to strip the IRS down Do you have uneven pad wear, diff side to wheel side? Without any pressure on the pedal the o...

I don't think I can help given the vague replies given. Get yourself a wiring diagram and refer the faults and responses to the wiring diagram rather than using terms like "amber feed wire". We still don't even know whether you have a problem on the left or right of the car. Given that this is proba...