The 'E' Type Forum

I buy 10 tubes at a time Phillipe. Black, grey of white depending of the colour of the car. I apply them between parallel lines of masking tape, separated by 10mm, remove the tape and then feather the edges. It is absolutely essential prior to the next coat. Another way of doing it is to apply a ver...

Just an idea, as I had a similar situation with a tuned 4.2 running SUs. The carbs had been rebuilt, however the engine would not rev up easliy. It was fine at idle though. I spent ages making adjustments to the timing and air screws etc. No difference. The solution took a few minutes when I had fig...

Phillippe,

I think the bronze welds were actually brazing.

In the factory they assembled the main body sections on jigs with brazing before they were fully welded together.

I would not worry about replicating that method now though, as you probably have a bit more time to assemble it than they did.

I fitted a pair of Mr Robeys outer sills this afternoon. They have slightly less of a radius than the closing panels. This is on purpose I think. It allows you to pull them into the closing panel flanges to get rid of the gap for plug welding, using tek screws. https://i.postimg.cc/28fh7KtR/Flange.j...

I once had a bit of a rattle going on in the head on a new engine. After 3 or 4 miles, I took off the cam covers to find zero oil in the inlet side. If it had been on the exhaust side, I could have seen it though the filler cap. The feed pipe had been squashed against the bulkhead when the engine wa...

Morning, I have a UK roadster that was manufactured 31st May 1962 and dispatched from the factory 8th June that year. Opalescent Gunmetal with a biscuit interior. The distributor was Henlys of London. It wasn't registered until April 63 though. Just wondering why? Did it really take 9 months to sell...

Thanks for that.
Yes, I was hoping to be able to use what I have, in other words the 3.8 bellhousing and flywheel.
Machining is no problem, as long as I know what I am machining it too.

I gave a 4.2 bellhousing away about 2 months ago!, never mind.

Thanks for all that. I took the whole lot out today and split the 3.8 engine from the gearbox, so I shall check the bellhousing to see what I have got. I suspect it is all as was assembled by Mr Lyons, as the numbers are correct and the car was parked up in the late 60s when it was 8 years old. What...

I want to change a 3.8 moss gearbox to a 4.2 4sp synchro E type gearbox.
The idea is to retain the 3.8 bellhousing, starter and flywheel.
The bits have not turned up yet.
Am I correct in assuming the 3.8 bellhousing will bolt onto the 4.2 4sp synchro gearbox?
Or have I got more fettling to do?

I have had exactly this happen to me. There are at least two different heights of thrust bearing, a tall one and a short one. Sounds like the short one needs swapping out for the taller version which should bring the fork back onto the center of the bellhousing slot. From memory, this is further con...

I just checked the price of MWS 5721 and 5738s. These are the ones that push the wheels into the corners a bit to give it wider shoulders. They come as flat hubs (MWS5721) or curly hubs (MWS 5738) and are centre laced with 6.5in wide rims and 97mm backspacing. The last stainless set I purchased was ...

The timing mark on the crank pulley cannot be relied on as the crank wheel has a bonded centre which I have seen slip with age. As Steve says you need to Tipex on the crank pulley TDC to the pointer, or better still 10 degrees TDC with pistons no.1 or no. 6 at the top of their strokes. Compare your ...

You need to line up the end of the outer sill with the rear of the wheel arches first before thinking about the rear bonnet gap. How is that alignment looking? You can see that it is not great on the car below. https://i.postimg.cc/YqzbBZbB/Bonnet-Alignment.jpg If your sill/wheel arch alignment is O...

I assume you are sure it wasn't dripping down from the head? The cam-shaft oil feed lines are often incorrectly fitted, adding to the oily mess at the back of the engine. On the subject of the rear conversion lip seal, I dont bother any more as I have found it leaky and expensive. However if your cr...

I would go along with Jack the Lad John. Just cut it all out and bin it. Then build the body off a new Robey floor section. You will save loads of time. The problem is that I am not sure if they offer the complete 2+2 floor structure. They do all the SWB ones. Looking at the parts they are advertisi...

On the subject of E types and 215s, I have 215s fitted to this S1. All I will say is that they clear and it drives fine. Even the steering is OK! I needed some tyres to move this car around and happend to have the Michelins XWXs off an old Ferrari. They are fitted to 6.5 inch center laced wheels and...

Sorry to hear about the paint! I am pretty sure you can just fit the thermostat without the center section? Series 2 with a Jenvey manifold standard TBs and original style Rad https://i.postimg.cc/ZKk4H8bq/20180317-133251-1.jpg Series 2 with a Jenvey manifold standard TBs and a Radtec rad (much bett...

Tim, I have been there many times! You must use a fine hand file to create a perfectly flat surface on all the banjos faces, otherwise it will never seal, no matter which washers you use. The thin copper ones or crush washers are the best. Remove the whole assembly and surface all 6 faces holding it...

I had a similar bit a bit different experience with a newly built 4.2 engine some years ago, although it never locked up. It had an ignition fault and so required quite a lot of spinning over before it fired for the first time. When it eventually ran, we lost the ability to change gear after only 10...

Sounds like the timing chain might need re-tensioning to me.