The 'E' Type Forum

Sounds good to me, Pete. I hope it has some nuggets that I haven't already sponged from you for free.

Perhaps we could all agree that it's difficult to get into any E Type because of the insane purchase prices?

This has been an interesting thread of opinions and it seems to me that those opinions are similar to political opinions in that some facts and factoids are used to arrive at one's final analysis. When the Series 2's were introduced, I felt strongly that the looks of the car had been downgraded and ...

There should be no surprise at the relative difficulty in ingress/egress in a SWB E Type. After all, they were designed to fit Norman Dewis, RIP.

I can't say that I've been a fan of most of the Ferrari stylings, but this one looks awesome! Maybe I like it because it reminds me of an E FHC?

Hmmm, if you’re a spirited driver snd usually shift around 4500 it may not work, but you’ve given it your best shot. Bruce Harless, a 3.8 owner and personal friend on Jag-lovers, had his engine rebuilt by a pro but got bad advice on break-in. He did abiut the same miles and was losing oil heavily. ...

No leaks with MT90 after 11 years in my all synchro box.

Halon is the very best but now banned by the EU except in aerospace and in the US along with other countries. I was talking with a guy at a show recently who had both a Halon and a dry chemical extinguisher in his car. I asked him why he carried both and he said, "In case of fire, the Halon is for ...

I'm not sure if this is what you need, Simon. Here are some shots of my hood cover in place.

Tim, my 4.2 registers pretty much the same as yours on a mechanical gauge, running 20W50 oil. Just short of 60psi cold, around 40psi fully heated up at 2500 rpm and dropping down to about 25psi at idle when hot.

Mine uses about a quart per 1000 miles. Much of that is automatic rust prevention distribution from the engine.

It does sound like hot brake fluid, but the question then becomes why did the fluid get hot enough to boil? I'd be looking for a sticking brake piston that causes the pad to drag on the rotor. Or possibly a sticking piston in the front of the MC which is keeping the reaction valve from returning atm...

Another issue with filling to the top of the hash marks, anectdotally reported I admit, is that that can lead to an increase in oil leakage from the rear main seal. I see no reason to fill beyond halfway on the hash marks.

Welcome to the forum, Islam. No better time than now and no better place than here for the info you need to DIY. The best way to learn your car is to do your own work on it. Go for it!

Welcome to the forum, Bruce and good luck in your finding your dream car! It looks like you've done your homework and are aware of the pitfalls. My suggestion to you is that you join Jag-Lovers forum and if you have a car that you're interested in somewhere in the states (or Canada for that matter) ...

Easy enough to test. Attach a voltmeter between one of the pump leads and ground (earth) then activate the washer pump switch. A 12 v. reading will identify that lead a the +. A 0 v. reading will indicate that it's the -. Attach them accordingly to the pump terminals.

I'm very sorry to hear of your wife's illness, Christopher. My best hopes and prayers for a full recovery.

We're leaving June 8th with a few other Jag owners for a backroads trip to Asheville, NC, with a good portion of the driving in the Appalachian mountans and interesting stops along the way to keep SWMBO's happy. Just finished Spring maintenance including new tires, oil & filter, lube, brakes and clu...

I downloaded that file to my home and office computers and both of them are running much faster without the usual occasional gremlin. You Da Man, David!

Coincidentally, I went out for a test run of my new tires today. I have been having a similar problem with my wipers and since I only drive in the rain if I'm caught unawares, I had disconnected the wiper motor to stop the wipers from constantly running. Before I went on the run today, I reconnected...