The 'E' Type Forum

Thanks for the encouragement Keith. The lack of a seam under the lights is bothering me. So may be off on another minor diversion. Looks like just lazy filling rather than an issue. Should also include some links to the Monocoque Metalworks site re: Covered Headlights. Great work, great attitude.......

Few more shots.
To be honest I'm doing everything to put off the point of no return when I start trimming Chucks headlamp opening flanges!

Thanks Jeremy. Really appreciate you confirming.
Was worried I might hit clearance issues again when I set the headlamp adjustment

Regards
Eddie

Hi Peter,
Maybe drop over an email to Chuck at Monocoque. He is really helpful and friendly and his S1/S2 sill and body tub mods are well thought out. Be interesting to get his opinion.

Eddie
67 S1

Next logical step, removed connectors from block Heat shrink insulation bent the connector ends 90 degrees trimmed H4 bulb terminal length by about 1mm bent the headlamp seating ring tabs x3 down so that the chrome trim ring sat snugly without moving All good https://i.postimg.cc/4dZDphsb/P1070701.j...

Thanks Heuer, If you have a ref. number for the Wipacs I'll see if I can pick up a pair. Again fooled by the S1 Holden light kit that included Lucas lamps with the 3.5" depth. I may as well follow this through and then can use both types... Found some old connector harness sockets with side entry wi...

Lucas with Halogen bulbs that came with the Holden kit I also have a sealed beam lucas from the 1.25 install. I'll check the link and measure Here you go @3" from the top of the locating lugs to the tip of the spade connectors Does that make them too deep? If so, what would be the ref's of the corre...

S1.25 conversion. Now got the correct Headlamp Seating Rim from Holden (SNG code: 010.741). Thanks Holden. So all good....well not quite. when I offer up the headlamp to the seating rim its sits about 1/2" proud due to the rear connector fouling. If I remove and push the connector to one side, the h...

Thanks all Robsan- I have marked where the holes are required. The 2 at the top require more metal added to get a fixing but that's fine as Chucks lip flanges are so spot on you can see where the opening is too large. Captives for the chrome...currently I am for self tapping stainless raised counter...

Not sure myself. Before I saw your offset bracket, I was thinking of adding a bracket either side of the seam, using the front bolt to attach the bracket.

Thx
Eddie

Thanks Geoff. I'll probably do the same.

Eddie

These are the flanges and some of the parts. Flanges are absolutely perfect. Where the line doesn't follow the headlight opening seems to be where too much was trimmed off the top of the opening- the chrome cover has nothing to fix to. I taped and marked where I think the bezel holes should go https...

Parts assembled over a couple of years. Flanges purchased from Chuck at Monocoque Metalworks Chuck also supplied the clear plastic covers. I have the glass ones as well I have plenty of questions so would be grateful for help from S1 owners As for attaching the flanges- my thinking so far is to lap ...

Couple of shots through to completion: Blasting cab to get the worst rust off Sandpaper then Metalprep got it pretty good Thin coat of POR15 (black) inside and out AutoTek Etch primer from the can which works well for me. Light sanding to remove nibs and key the surface Rust Buster EM121 Epoxy Rust ...

Just emailed Holden: Re: Holden Complete headlamp unit 53909 - Headlight seating rim is incorrect. Adjusters need to be 6 oclock and 03 oclock as viewed from the front Couple of questions: • Do all of the part 59309 have the wrong headlamp seating ring or was I unlucky in the pair that I ordered. Wo...

Bought my complete S1 lamp and bowl kits from Holden. Ref 59309 Still listed on their site. Been 2 hours trying to figure it out. Thanks for the post Mine are at 9 oclock and 12 o'clock for the adjusters so the seating rim is incorrect and will never fit. I think someone on here said they were a per...

Thanks guys. Yes Steve. I saw a few other posts and will settle (?) on getting the floor and sills level with the garage floor and then making front castor changes. I have the car sitting about right and on turntables at the front. Rear Camber? Spent so much time on the front suspension I forgot abo...

Thanks David, I may drop out another shim. Only an hours works and last chance before the mud shields go back on. castor is about 2 degrees so happy with that. Rear tool was to set the rear of the car at mid level to match the front and set the castor but I found a thread that says the sills should ...

I have the suspension setting tools fixing the front suspension in the mid laden position. 1. Camber comes up as +1/2 degree both sides. Worth removing one more shim? 2. Should I tighten the rubber bushes in the mid laden position as they are now or just on normal ride height? 3. Can you buy a rear ...

I'll post some pictures as i restore it. Casing is cleaning up quite well. https://i.postimg.cc/RVnJzmDx/P1070419.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/x1DJfZwJ/P1070452.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/g2VwnDpM/P1070449.jpg Been filling the rad with white vinegar and tapping the contents out each morning. Shifted quite...