The 'E' Type Forum

Harald Wrote: The rumbling noise I described earlier ( heard at standstill idling, clutch pedal out ), I think it might as well come from very worn layshaft in my box? Next, selector hub assemblies. Gear lever were moving forward / backwards accellerating / decellerating in third. Probably worn part...

Harald Wrote: My needles are definite smaller measured with basic handheld micrometer, 2,925 - 2.950. I am aware of limitations measuring such small differences, but I’m sure they have somewhat smaller dia. Hello Harald, They won't have worn 0.003"; accordingly, I would be checking the zero of your ...

Hello Mike, As well as the suggestions already provided, check the resistance between the two terminals on the Otto Switch, used to turn the fans on and off (in the absence of an after thought, additional switch), when the engine and coolant are cold. If it shows Infinity, the original circuit is op...

Harald Wrote: Haven’t measured all but a selection measures 2.93 mm ( some 2.935 ) Forward 2.925 +/-. What could be the difference between rollers supposed to be identical? And between one grade and another? Theese roller pins have ofcourse done long service, and are worn. Hello Harald, These roller...

Colin Wrote: Spare parts manual list the different sizes, with a micrometer it should be easy to tell what each roller is closest to, wear should be negligible. Mine were all almost spot-on. Note differences are 0.0001 mm. Hello Colin, My parts book, an original, period manual, show the basic size o...

Harald Wrote: 9: fine, but after 16mm forward movement it will foul countershaft. I cant see that countershaft can be moved more out of the way, and looks very much like drawing in service manual. 10: Is rear bearing supposed to be removed when mainshaft is only moved 16mm forward? Is it a loose fit...

Hello Marcusu, Engine frame are commonly replaced as part of a restoration project, and as Andrew points out, the whole front end, including engine and gearbox are removed. If the bulk head looks OK and no need to repaint it, the engine frames can be replaced without removing the engine and gearbox,...

Hello Harald, 6: Is it the large nut, the one in front of main shaft? No, its the nut in front of the First Motion Shaft bearing. 7: to dislodge which bearing? Mainshaft from rear bearing? The bearing on the First Motion Shaft. And is 6&7 really necesarry at this point? You only have to carry out th...

Hello Tony, If the engine is out of the car, the bonnet without the air ducts etc can be assembled on the cars and the shut line gaps made good before the air ducts and other support features are added. Once you're happy with the fit, bonding of the the air ducts and other components requiring bondi...

Hello Tony, You will find the dimensions you require in the V12 Series 3 E Type, Repair Operation Manual at the start of the Body Section. You have the right approach in checking that the frame members are in the correct location. It could also be that the support section of the lower valance, where...

Curtis Wrote: Can anyone tell me why the bracket is there? I can't seem to find any reference to it or what sometimes attaches to it. Hello Curtis, What is supposed to be attached, is the heavy 12v feed wire from the common terminal stud, where the Positive lead from the battery is connected, to the...

Hello Jonny,
I think it may have been David Jones, in a Thread some time ago, stating along the lines:

"When posing in an E Type, you should be seen and not heard."

Regards,

Bill

Hello John,
You don't tighten the castellated nuts on the shafts that pass through the rubber bushes until the car is sitting with its full weight on its wheels. Depending on how far out from the fulcrum you have you're jacking point, you can easily lift the car via the suspension.

Regards,

Bill

Kev Wrote: My '73 OTS has the original wired mirror on the drivers side only, I didn't realize how reliant I was on the door mirrors until one wasn't there, are matching mirrors available anywhere? Hello Kev, When you say wired, are you referring to the manual wire, remote control type mirror? If so...

Steve Wrote: All 4 jack points should be the same as far as im aware......a small nipple/stud that your jack slots into......see SNGB jack point or google for photo.....Steve Hello Steve, They are in fact different. Although the Top Hat section that the jack engages with is the same, its perched on ...

Ash Wrote: Look at 77RW which is a good reference. Its quite difficult to compare paint colours on different days, different locations and in different light conditions. The prevailing light conditions of the pictures of 77RW and the S3 appear to be quite different. And 77RW, as Stuart points out, h...

Ash Wrote: The early Jaguar BRG was very dark but the colour used on the S3 was much lighter - similar to MG BRG. Of the 15,498 combined production of S1 3.8L OTS and FHC cars, only 42 were painted BRG at the factory, with most cars thought to have been BRG in fact were Opalescent Dark Green. Accord...

Garry Wrote: Hi Bill and welcome back to posting on the forum. I hope you are now well and you and your family had a great Christmas :bigrin: To my eye any metallic except for silver and gunmetal does not look right on an E-Type and a generic BRG should be non metallic. Thanks Garry, likewise and al...

Kev Wrote: What are your views on using metallic on a '73 car? Opalescent Dark Green (Metallic Dark Green) was a standard colour used on E Types from 1961 to 67 and was basically metallic BRG. The level of metallic was mild and appealing in my eye. The Metallic Dark Green used on the current crop of...

MaroonV12 Wrote: No such shade as BRG as someone has already said. The E Type colour was opalescent dark green. There are many Dark Greens that are refereed to as British Racing Green and indeed there are paint formulas that are specific to Dark Green Colours that were used on Jaguar cars and referr...