The 'E' Type Forum

Check too that there are no inlet manifold side air leaks and the vacuum pipe that runs to your servo has not falloff or is perished. Major air leaks make idle very bad or impossible and it will be impossible to set up the carbs.

Hmm....mine is 300 earlier, sound bodywork, all numbers match and mot'ed and in good mechanical order....if it makes £80k I best get a new valuation...

They estimate £50 to £60 k....I feel a pole coming on...I say £40k to £45k.

If it always blows from the same place then I would suspect either a bit of foreign matter (old gasket) is present on the mating surfaces or a deformed exhaust manifold. It is unlikely to be a distorted head...and if it is then I would imagine there would be other head issues. Remove the manifold. M...

There is another thread on here where someone did the same thing. Think he had a combination of nuts bottoming and an issue with the studs. Be worth finding it....was within the last six months or so Others here will know more but the General advice would be not to release those nuts unless you plan...

Remarkably they assess it at 28/135.....so that's 20.7% of the way to perfect!!!!! Plainly nonsense....more like 2%...and that is for the log book....fool's and their money.....

Good news....I carry a spare arm in a bag under the passenger seat among other bits like fuses and the all important length of wire and a few wire ties

Thanks. Very kind of you... vascular dementia got him. Indescribably awful. He is in a better place and life and e types go on. Make the most of every day as one day your luck will run out..get those cars out and drive them...that's what Sir William intended

There are many grades of stainless steel. The composition is varied according to application. In general the stainless steel used for exhausts is 304 grade or A2 steel containing, among other constituents, Chromium, nickel and manganese. It is the cheaper end of the stainless steel spectrum but is r...

And that's why we love em. Mine got snapped in the surgery car park when I went to get a death certificate for my dad from the doc.

I did read some rumour somewhere that Kenlowe no longer make fans....although there seem to be plenty out there so maybe an urban myth or fake news as the Donald would say

Greetings and well done. Early series 1 cars did have the fuel pump fused although later ones did not...a bizarre change. Well worth adding one so an in line is ideal. 5 amps will be sufficient. I am not that familiar with the V12 but I would also drain, flush and then refill the coolant too. While ...

FWIW I spent a merry hour or two wire brushing my old manifolds to remove as much of the rust as poss. No cracks found. Sprayed them with two coats of sperex exhaust paint...Matt black. 15 months later they are still fine. An hour of grinding and about £20 for a can of paint...job done. The tubular ...

Rory says it all....not a problem. Incidentally Coolkat in the USA sell a drop in replacement for the old and useless flymo fan. Fits straight onto the existing fan mount and works a dream...and looks close to factory too...

The fan runs when the engine is hot and probably idling in a queue. At idle the old dynamo generates very little juice so any electrical items on will be running off the battery. Assume a 50 amp hour battery and ten amps from your fan...five hours before it is flat. It would be less in a real queue ...

Horn may be the horn button or wiper contact in the column or the relay which is on the lhs near the battery. Indicators...check the bulbs....the flasher may have died or the contacts in the stalk are dirty. The instrument lights are powered from the same circuit as the side lights. The dim setting ...

Maybe strip to a bare shell yourself. Get the shell prepped and painted professionally. Send the engine off for a rebuild and probably gear box and diff. All the prepped bits come back. You restore or replace everything else and reassemble. Takes a long time but saves in labour and you wind up knowi...

Rust is actually a mix of hydrated iron III oxide Fe2O3. nH2O and iron III oxide-hydroxide FeO(OH). Fe(OH)3...

Yes....forgot the vat....really unless it is a Ferrari 250GT you are fixing up then do it up for love with little or no expectation of recouping your costs when you sell as, most times it will cost more to fix than you will see back....

Just seen your post.....you will be hard pressed to find a (knowledgeable) e type restoration specialist who charges less than £50 per hour I am afraid. The General rule with any classic is that buying a basket case and paying for the restoration is always more costly that buying a well restored run...