New Member Series3 1972

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Jaguar7474
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#1 New Member Series3 1972

Post by Jaguar7474 » Sun Apr 19, 2020 10:26 am

Hi All,

Just joined the Group and I can see what great value this forum will be. Previously owned a Series1 FHC that had received significant attention over a 17 year period. I used the car as a work vehicle to travel the 4 1/2 hour trip to work and back whilst working Long Haul shift operations with an airline. The car loved it and went well in all weathers even if I never did get it entirely watertight. Electronic ignition and Webers meant the car needed little attention other than routine. After regretfully selling that machine some time passed , a fully rebuilt Triumph TR6 filled the gap temporarily, but now own an Australian delivered Series 3 is taking up my time. The car looks beautiful, has a great 6 speed Manual Gearbox, runs very well but there are, of course, some issues. I look forward to any advice in due course. Am currently pondering whether to replace the entire radiator/ cowling/fan setup or simply to get the existing radiator re-cored locally.
Glad to be part of the Group

Roy

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Gravygraham
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#2 Re: New Member Series3 1972

Post by Gravygraham » Mon May 04, 2020 7:04 pm

Welcome aboard Roy.
'72 Series 3 manual coupe, pale primrose/black, cww
'61 Land Rover Series 2 petrol 88" in marine blue
'15 Defender 90 Heritage Edition
'15 Defender 90 Station Wagon
‘19 E-Pace HSE (Mrs Gravygraham’s runabout)

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vee12eman
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#3 Re: New Member Series3 1972

Post by vee12eman » Mon May 04, 2020 10:33 pm

Hi Roy,
Welcome to the forum, sorry this is a late answer, the original post slipped past me. I have a UK delivered Series 3 here, it arrived with me, we are both migrants. The car was rebuilt by me except the engine which was professionally done. This meant that the engine was chemically cleaned inside and out and that the silt build up in the engine (a common problem amongst badly maintained V12 Jaguars) was eliminated from the outset. Despite the belief to the contrary, the Series 3 cooling system is generally fine, as long as it and the engine are in decent condition. Well worth at least flushing your motor to clear what silt you can, if it's present.
If your car is a six speed conversion (Holden sourced Getrag?) then was it originally a manual or auto? Mine was auto and these cars originally have part of the radiator matrix given over to an oil cooling circuit for the gearbox, not required for manual cars.
I actually had no radiator, so I looked for a replacement, but with no exchange unit, a replacement Aluminium unit was the same sort of money, especially when I found a new, but scratched one on special offer at a show. I also had no cooling fans and shroud, so I found it cheaper to source a modern style unit from V12S in USA, but I can't find their site any longer, not sure if they are still trading. To be honest, it's really a very nicely made folded aluminium sheet, with two modern fan units bolted on, I reckon its pretty easy to make, although access to a folder and guillotine would be very helpful. I used to work on aircraft structures and it was no harder than the skins we used to make for old helicopters. It was designed to fit the original radiator, but fitted my Aluminium unit with little more than a couple of mounting holes being a couple of mm off.
If you do choose two modern fans, be aware they may be beyond the capacity of the original Lucas relay unit. I fitted two modern Hella/Bosch relays, one for each fan and triggered by the same switch, but each driving their own fan.
The fan switch is sometimes seen as an issue, originally an Otter switch, this can be replaced with a unit from Coolcat in USA, giving you the choice of temperature setting, as you then fit a modern style switch used by many VWs, amongst others. I have this option, bought in the heady days when the AU$ was worth more than the US$! It uses a different mounting, just a 'T' piece in the pipework, again, probably easy to get fabricated but not worth it when the exchange rate was so good.
My first longish drive in the completed car was on a 40+ degree day - it performed faultlessly. However, I am not sure that a good condition original system would have been disadvantaged. On that same day, we were visited by a British tour, driving their UK cars and I didn't see any problems, though I'm sure most had had major check ups prior to putting their cars on the boat for the AU tour.
A final weakness is the Steel Header tank, which can corrode if a good quality coolant mixt is not correctly maintained. There is a scary amount of fluid and some simply don't use a strong enough mix or replace it frequently enough. Alloy header tanks are available, but pricey. It's the last mod I want to make, but I haven't done it yet, some years after the original intention. No problems so far, fingers crossed.
Good luck and welcome to the forum.
Simon S-Y
Series III FHC

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malcolm
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#4 Re: New Member Series3 1972

Post by malcolm » Tue May 05, 2020 8:13 am

Hi Roy, and welcome to this great forum!
Malcolm
I only fit in a 2+2, so got one!
1969 Series 2 2+2
2009 Jaguar XF-S

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Jaguar7474
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#5 Re: New Member Series3 1972

Post by Jaguar7474 » Mon Jun 29, 2020 12:07 am

vee12eman wrote:
Mon May 04, 2020 10:33 pm
Hi Roy,
Welcome to the forum, sorry this is a late answer, the original post slipped past me. I have a UK delivered Series 3 here, it arrived with me, we are both migrants. The car was rebuilt by me except the engine which was professionally done. This meant that the engine was chemically cleaned inside and out and that the silt build up in the engine (a common problem amongst badly maintained V12 Jaguars) was eliminated from the outset. Despite the belief to the contrary, the Series 3 cooling system is generally fine, as long as it and the engine are in decent condition. Well worth at least flushing your motor to clear what silt you can, if it's present.
If your car is a six speed conversion (Holden sourced Getrag?) then was it originally a manual or auto? Mine was auto and these cars originally have part of the radiator matrix given over to an oil cooling circuit for the gearbox, not required for manual cars.
I actually had no radiator, so I looked for a replacement, but with no exchange unit, a replacement Aluminium unit was the same sort of money, especially when I found a new, but scratched one on special offer at a show. I also had no cooling fans and shroud, so I found it cheaper to source a modern style unit from V12S in USA, but I can't find their site any longer, not sure if they are still trading. To be honest, it's really a very nicely made folded aluminium sheet, with two modern fan units bolted on, I reckon its pretty easy to make, although access to a folder and guillotine would be very helpful. I used to work on aircraft structures and it was no harder than the skins we used to make for old helicopters. It was designed to fit the original radiator, but fitted my Aluminium unit with little more than a couple of mounting holes being a couple of mm off.
If you do choose two modern fans, be aware they may be beyond the capacity of the original Lucas relay unit. I fitted two modern Hella/Bosch relays, one for each fan and triggered by the same switch, but each driving their own fan.
The fan switch is sometimes seen as an issue, originally an Otter switch, this can be replaced with a unit from Coolcat in USA, giving you the choice of temperature setting, as you then fit a modern style switch used by many VWs, amongst others. I have this option, bought in the heady days when the AU$ was worth more than the US$! It uses a different mounting, just a 'T' piece in the pipework, again, probably easy to get fabricated but not worth it when the exchange rate was so good.
My first longish drive in the completed car was on a 40+ degree day - it performed faultlessly. However, I am not sure that a good condition original system would have been disadvantaged. On that same day, we were visited by a British tour, driving their UK cars and I didn't see any problems, though I'm sure most had had major check ups prior to putting their cars on the boat for the AU tour.
A final weakness is the Steel Header tank, which can corrode if a good quality coolant mixt is not correctly maintained. There is a scary amount of fluid and some simply don't use a strong enough mix or replace it frequently enough. Alloy header tanks are available, but pricey. It's the last mod I want to make, but I haven't done it yet, some years after the original intention. No problems so far, fingers crossed.
Good luck and welcome to the forum.
Gooday Simon,

Thanks for your response. The cooling issues are temporarily resolved by use of one of the more recent Additives which have very successfully sealed the couple of small weeps in the radiator; no fluid loss and good running temperatures however I can see evidence of rust in the Header tank despite that tank being only 5 years old. Dont know how good the Coolant mix has been however. I am going to enjoy the machine for a period as part of the process of acquisition involved a COMPLETE replacement of the front brakes, including 3 new brake master cylinders , the last of which was overhauled before installation. A long story but the brakes work fine now!.I had thought you might be based in the ACT[ I used to live there] but perhaps not. I am keen to make contact with at least one V12 owner as there are done down here on the South Coast-- although my very capable friend here owns a Series2 FHC. Perhaps you could contact me if able.
Best Regards
Roy

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vee12eman
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#6 Re: New Member Series3 1972

Post by vee12eman » Sat Jul 04, 2020 9:55 pm

Hi Roy,
I have just been working on the cooling system as I have some seepage around some of the hoses. I also wanted to change the fluid and replace an incorrect pipe. After totally draining the system, I found the fluid, now around ten years old, was perfectly clean, no dirt and still bright green. There’s no sign of corrosion in the steel header at all, the fluid showed no signs of any corrosion and in fact looked brand new. I used Nulon fluid, I can’t remember the name, but I’m replacing it with similar stuff, as I’m very pleased with it.

The weeps were around several of the hoses. This has been an ongoing issue and I am replacing some if then, in other cases using new hose clamps. It’s the only aspect of the car that has really been a lasting problem so I am taking a lot of care, some of the pipes don’t have very good surfaces where the hoses fit so these are being cleaned up. Some had pits from corrosion long ago, others still have casting marks and others showed some scoring, quite deep in some cases, presumably from people trying to separate the hoses from the pipes/castings in the past. I hope to cure the problems this time around, probably should have taken more notice when assembling originally.

Regards,

Simon
Simon S-Y
Series III FHC

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SESH
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#7 Re: New Member Series3 1972

Post by SESH » Sun Jul 05, 2020 5:59 pm

Hi Roy,,
Welcome to the forum.
You may want to consider the coolcat fan replacement. Easy and cheap to do. I dit it on mine and it has worked well for 10 years. There are details on the forum or on the coolcat website.
Which airline were you with. I have been working in aviation in the uk for 43 years.
Cheers
Mike
1973 Series 3 OTS Signal Red

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