Lazy Starting
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Topic author - Posts: 1
- Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2023 12:11 pm
#1 Lazy Starting
Hi all, I have recently purchased an series 2 E-type which I am really pleased with. The engine fires up quickly and runs well, however if it has been left unused for over a week it take a lot of cranking to get it started. The engine was rebuilt in 2018 the head was machined and the block rebored then fitted with new high compression pistons, it has covered 8000 mile since. After cranking for a while, with no luck, I checked the plugs and the oil filler cap which were clean. I have no idea why it is reluctant to start can anybody help please. Thanks
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#2 Re: Lazy Starting
Pull out choke...dont touch the throttle pedal...start car...for a quicker start ensure battery is fully charged and carb choke mechanism is set correctly....dont forget in the 60s we used to get our mates to give us a push start
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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- Posts: 1651
- Joined: Thu Feb 02, 2017 12:26 pm
- Location: Shropshire
#3 Re: Lazy Starting
Also, make sure the fuel pump has filled the carburettor float bowls before cranking the engine over.
Regards
Regards
Stuart
If you can't make it work, make it complicated!
'62 FHC - Nearing completion
'69 Daimler 420 Sovereign
'78 Land Rover Series 3 109
If you can't make it work, make it complicated!
'62 FHC - Nearing completion
'69 Daimler 420 Sovereign
'78 Land Rover Series 3 109
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#4 Re: Lazy Starting
listen to the ticking pump...dont try to start till ticking stops
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#5 Re: Lazy Starting
x2
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
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#6 Re: Lazy Starting
Mine is always slower to start after a week or two than if I try after just after days. It ain't the fuel, nor is it sparks or compression.
I blame them gremlins.
I blame them gremlins.
Chris '67 S1 2+2
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#7 Re: Lazy Starting
If mine is left for a few weeks it can take a few turns of the starter to fire. I’ve got edis so I’m certain of sparks. Which leaves fuel. The SUcarb is a basic instrument unlike fuel injection on modern cars along with this we have a lengthy inlet tract which adds to the issue.
I think it’s a common issue
I think it’s a common issue
Series 1 FHC purchased 40 years ago. Courted my wife in it.
Series 1 2+2 when the kids were small now sold.
Series 1.5 OTS in opalescent maroon, Californian car. My retirement present.
Series 1 2+2 when the kids were small now sold.
Series 1.5 OTS in opalescent maroon, Californian car. My retirement present.
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#8 Re: Lazy Starting
I think mostly, even with well set SU's, it takes longer to start up after a few idle weeks even if it generally starts on the key on a daily.
Danny
1962 S1 3.8 FHC (1012/1798)
2015 Range Rover Sport SVR
"Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it."
1962 S1 3.8 FHC (1012/1798)
2015 Range Rover Sport SVR
"Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it."
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#9 Re: Lazy Starting
I find the ambient air temperature has a lot to do with starting if the car has stood for a period of time in the garage in winter months.
I firstly place a small fan heater on the top of the tyre which is directed towards the carbs and manifold and once it’s warm makes starting much easier.
Out of interest there used to be low temperature heaters sold specifically to be placed under the engine sump but I haven’t seen them advertised for a while.
I firstly place a small fan heater on the top of the tyre which is directed towards the carbs and manifold and once it’s warm makes starting much easier.
Out of interest there used to be low temperature heaters sold specifically to be placed under the engine sump but I haven’t seen them advertised for a while.
Paul.
1971 S2 FHC (Opalescent Blue)
1990 Mercedes Benz 260E
1972 Saab 96 V4
A number of Nortons.
1939 Triumph T100
1971 S2 FHC (Opalescent Blue)
1990 Mercedes Benz 260E
1972 Saab 96 V4
A number of Nortons.
1939 Triumph T100
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#10 Re: Lazy Starting
I can almost count the number of days mine has stood by the number of cranks it takes! Not a bad thing, helps get the oil round before it starts.
More than a week, and it's a long crank.
More than a week, and it's a long crank.
Malcolm
I only fit in a 2+2, so got one!
1969 Series 2 2+2
2009 Jaguar XF-S
2015 F Type V6 S
I only fit in a 2+2, so got one!
1969 Series 2 2+2
2009 Jaguar XF-S
2015 F Type V6 S
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#11 Re: Lazy Starting
I have fuel pump and ignition cutout switches which I have in the ‘off’ position, I crank the engine until the oil pressure rises, then switch them on an it fires up first time, even after many weeks layoff.
Richard
1950 XK120
1965 S1 E Type DHC
1989 Porsche 911 Carrera cabriolet
1965 S1 E Type DHC
1989 Porsche 911 Carrera cabriolet
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#12 Re: Lazy Starting
I have listed this theory on here before and recently have pretty much proved it to myself.
When you park your E with a warm engine and leave it, most of the fuel evaporates from the carbs, more, the longer it is left alone. But what happens is it does not all evaporate but the light ends (butane, pentane, hexane etc.) go first leaving a thicker more viscous residue in the bottom of the carb.
You then go to start your engine, the float chambers fill up and the engine is trying to suck the thick (less combustible) fuel up the main jet, to no avail until it has been diluted by the new fuel.
If instead, you go to the car the day (or even a few hours) before you want to use it and turn on the ignition to fill the carbs, then leave it (till next day) it will start much more quickly. I have done this and it works because the new fuel has time to diffuse into the old fuel and reduce its viscosity.
QED to my satisfaction.
When you park your E with a warm engine and leave it, most of the fuel evaporates from the carbs, more, the longer it is left alone. But what happens is it does not all evaporate but the light ends (butane, pentane, hexane etc.) go first leaving a thicker more viscous residue in the bottom of the carb.
You then go to start your engine, the float chambers fill up and the engine is trying to suck the thick (less combustible) fuel up the main jet, to no avail until it has been diluted by the new fuel.
If instead, you go to the car the day (or even a few hours) before you want to use it and turn on the ignition to fill the carbs, then leave it (till next day) it will start much more quickly. I have done this and it works because the new fuel has time to diffuse into the old fuel and reduce its viscosity.
QED to my satisfaction.
Jerome Lunt
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
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#13 Re: Lazy Starting
Sounds plausible.
Danny
1962 S1 3.8 FHC (1012/1798)
2015 Range Rover Sport SVR
"Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it."
1962 S1 3.8 FHC (1012/1798)
2015 Range Rover Sport SVR
"Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it."
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#14 Re: Lazy Starting
Interesting.
Worth trying...
Worth trying...
Serge
1964 (3.8) FHC
1961 OTS
1964 (3.8) FHC
1961 OTS
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#15 Re: Lazy Starting
I am re-looking at this before I start my engine after some 2 months sleep. This is because of the article and letter in the latest E-type club magazine. Article by Darren Hughes, letter by Bob Alexander which got me thinking and wondering if my choke is working properly when I pull the lever on the dash. I suspect it is not but find no write-up I can properly understand telling me what I need to know. So, some questions here:
With the choke lever fully in, what should be the gaps at A and B. On my centre carb I get about 2.42mm at A and I cannot get a 2 thou feeler in B.
Finally, with the choke lever pulled right up/out, how much should the pushrod (item 17 in the manual diagram page C.5) at arrow C drop. On my car, from rear to front carbs I get 0.05mm, 1.72mm, 0.87mm.
Seems likely to me that the carb jets are not all dropping the same or even enough maybe for proper cold start enrichment. What sort of amount should these drop?
Advice appreciated, thanks.
EDIT: I rather think this should be under Technical.
With the choke lever fully in, what should be the gaps at A and B. On my centre carb I get about 2.42mm at A and I cannot get a 2 thou feeler in B.
Finally, with the choke lever pulled right up/out, how much should the pushrod (item 17 in the manual diagram page C.5) at arrow C drop. On my car, from rear to front carbs I get 0.05mm, 1.72mm, 0.87mm.
Seems likely to me that the carb jets are not all dropping the same or even enough maybe for proper cold start enrichment. What sort of amount should these drop?
Advice appreciated, thanks.
EDIT: I rather think this should be under Technical.
Jerome Lunt
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
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#16 Re: Lazy Starting
Hi Jerome,
The gaps at A and B have nothing to do with choke adjustment directly. The screw at B is the mixture adjustment and shouldn’t be touch (unless you need to adjust mixture!)
The only real choke adjustment is the silver screw NEXT to C in your picture. It should be adjusted to be just clear from contact when the choke is off.
The choke on an Etype (with triple carbs) is a two stage choke - when you first start to move the choke lever, it should slightly open the butterflies allowing the engine revs to rise - via item C in your picture. More application of the choke lever will then push down the jets via A and B in your picture, allowing the mixture to enrichen and help cold starting.
The workshop Service Manual has a very good adjustment procedure.
The gaps at A and B have nothing to do with choke adjustment directly. The screw at B is the mixture adjustment and shouldn’t be touch (unless you need to adjust mixture!)
The only real choke adjustment is the silver screw NEXT to C in your picture. It should be adjusted to be just clear from contact when the choke is off.
The choke on an Etype (with triple carbs) is a two stage choke - when you first start to move the choke lever, it should slightly open the butterflies allowing the engine revs to rise - via item C in your picture. More application of the choke lever will then push down the jets via A and B in your picture, allowing the mixture to enrichen and help cold starting.
The workshop Service Manual has a very good adjustment procedure.
Simon
62 3.8 FHC
91 Porsche 928GT
Find me on Instagram and Facebook @oldcarfixer
62 3.8 FHC
91 Porsche 928GT
Find me on Instagram and Facebook @oldcarfixer
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- Posts: 3320
- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2014 3:08 pm
- Location: Near Andover, Hampshire,in D.O. Blighty
#17 Re: Lazy Starting
This is a classic case where a new poster asks a question and doesn’t seem to have bothered reading or at least never bothered to say thanks to the various people who have posted responses at least it may have helped others along the way.
Geoff
Geoff
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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#18 Re: Lazy Starting
I suppose it could also be an April Fool’s
Simon
62 3.8 FHC
91 Porsche 928GT
Find me on Instagram and Facebook @oldcarfixer
62 3.8 FHC
91 Porsche 928GT
Find me on Instagram and Facebook @oldcarfixer
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#19 Re: Lazy Starting
NO, IT IS NOT!
If that is aimed at me, Geoff, I take exception. I have always thanked responders. My post, #16 is a simple question which is not answered in this thread - so far, though Simon's response is helpful, thank you.
Jerome Lunt
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
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#20 Re: Lazy Starting
Jerry...Read Geoff.s post again....he refers to a new poster.. as per the original poster who never replied..Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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