Dyno Testing

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malcolm
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#1 Dyno Testing

Post by malcolm » Sat Jun 30, 2018 8:23 am

Just up the road, there's a firm that do rolling road dyno testing for £40. I'm tempted to see what my car puts out, but I'm worried it might be a strain on the car. What are others views - to do or not to do, that is the question.
Malcolm
I only fit in a 2+2, so got one!
1969 Series 2 2+2
2009 Jaguar XF-S
2015 F Type V6 S

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mgcjag
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#2 Re: Dyno Testing

Post by mgcjag » Sat Jun 30, 2018 9:00 am

Hi Malcolm...I had my MGC on a rolling road..quite a few years ago..they strapped it down and thrashed it...wouldnt have it done again unless there was a good reason ....like i was performance enhancing...Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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malcolm
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#3 Re: Dyno Testing

Post by malcolm » Sat Jun 30, 2018 9:48 am

That's what I'm thinking Steve. Just curiosity on my part really, although I'd like to know if my Rob Beere head has given me anything - although I don't know what BHP was before the head, so I guess won't tell me much!
What were your results Steve, and were they on a standard car? EDIT - sorry, just noted it was on your MGC, so won't tell me much either. :roll:
Malcolm
I only fit in a 2+2, so got one!
1969 Series 2 2+2
2009 Jaguar XF-S
2015 F Type V6 S

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Heuer
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#4 Re: Dyno Testing

Post by Heuer » Sat Jun 30, 2018 10:45 am

I had my car dyno'd by Hi-tech Motorsport as did Angus. They are reliable and know what they are doing. Don't bother unless you have a valid reason - both our cars are fitted with EDIS Megajolt so we needed them mapped.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red

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christopher storey
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#5 Re: Dyno Testing

Post by christopher storey » Sat Jun 30, 2018 3:03 pm

If it's just for curiosity, I would not do it, for the simple reason that the results are wholly dependent on the calibration of the dynamometer , and thus the same car can produce ostensibly radically different results on 2 different machines. Where, however, it is for tuning purposes, e,g, comparing carburetter needles where the engine specification has been changed, as David has said, it can be useful even though the absolute readings may not be reliable

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#6 Re: Dyno Testing

Post by malcolm » Sat Jun 30, 2018 5:29 pm

OK guys,thanks for the input. Think I'll leave it then!
Malcolm
I only fit in a 2+2, so got one!
1969 Series 2 2+2
2009 Jaguar XF-S
2015 F Type V6 S

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lee-type
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#7 Re: Dyno Testing

Post by lee-type » Sat Jun 30, 2018 6:10 pm

Good evening all

I have had a lot to do with rolling roads over the years mostly with American V8's

When putting a car on a dyno theres 2 things the tuner can do.

1 is thrash fu%k out out of the car and tell you "here mate thats your dyno sheet" and your done

Or he will know and understand your engine and ignition system and use the dyno as a rolling road.

This way he can tune your engine timing and fuelling to suite your car.

In most cases the rolling road session wont be spot on to the way you drive but after the session and a few miles of driving you can go back to your dyno guy tell him the flat spots and he will make a few adjustments.

I have built a few American V8 engines some of witch are race winning cars but i am new to the jag inline 6 xk engine.

I really like the look of the 123 blue tooth dizzys as you can tune them on the road witch is the best way of tuning.

Would recommend fitting a O2 sensor to your exhaust system that way you can see a eye on what your jets are doing.

Carburettor engines are very sensitive to air density.


Hope this helps any questions please ask as engines are engines.

Cheers Lee
Lee
S1 4.2 OTS

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#8 Re: Dyno Testing

Post by Heuer » Sat Jun 30, 2018 6:18 pm

Checking the O2 levels on the E-Type engine is difficult because you have three SU's, 6 cylinders and two exhaust pipes. So you have to adjust the rear/centre carbs and then the centre/front carbs which of course screws everything up. If you have tubular manifolds then you can weld tapped plugs in to three of the down pipes (one per carb) and then screw in the sensor, get your measurements and adjust each carb. Not really feasible with cast manifolds of course. I seem to recall Rory did something on these lines with air/fuel mixture gauges.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
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#9 Re: Dyno Testing

Post by lee-type » Sat Jun 30, 2018 6:42 pm

Good evening Heuer

Yes it would be tricky but 2 lamber sensors and 2 gauges hidden away in the car is no big deal.

The outcome will outweigh all the fuss of fitting 2 gauges and sensors.

I took my old chevy to a dyno tuner a few years ago and all he did was max the ignition curve out to max power but on the street in the real world the engine was crazy!

I road tuned the engine over a weekend off the O2 sensor (changing jets) and ignition timing wow what a difference i felt.

IMOI a carburettor car with out a O2 sensor is like flying blind.

If you can read a gauge and use a spanner changing your jest 3 times a year if you drive your car all year round is well worth the money (£200 for gauges)

P.S. if you are to fuel (jet) your engine all ways have it just on the rich side to be safer than running a lean engine witch will cause damage. this is also why i like to use use o2 sensors on my cars.

heres what u use https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ ... /overview/
Lee
S1 4.2 OTS

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#10 Re: Dyno Testing

Post by christopher storey » Sun Jul 01, 2018 7:19 am

Heuer wrote:
Sat Jun 30, 2018 6:18 pm
. Not really feasible with cast manifolds of course. I seem to recall Rory did something on these lines with air/fuel mixture gauges.
Yes, and I use a CO meter, swapping it from pipe to pipe as necessary . The task is also made rather more hit and miss than with fixed jet carburetters by the fact that the E has balance pipes/passages in the manifold, so that adjusting any one carburetter also affects, to a lesser degree, the other two. I start with uniform jet depths, and then adjust the centre carburetter, checking it in each pipe, and then move on to the other two using the appropriate pipe. I then check the jet depths again and adjust all three to the average

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#11 Re: Dyno Testing

Post by ETTony » Sun Jul 01, 2018 9:31 am

Mine went onto the rolling road last summer, at Tipton Garage. The 'senior' mechanic spent well over an hour tweeking and ballancing my 3 SU's. Then with exhaust sniffers and RPM pick up in place, the process began.
After the first run the neddles were changed. Good result.
Then the timing was tweeked. Getting better.
Finally (as my car does not have the original air filter system, but individual gauze and filters) we removed the filters. Bingo. (Filters back in now)
My car did need this final TLC as I had only just got it on the road, I knew is was running rough and needed professional fettling.
(Final tweek last winter was the head serviced and fresh timing chains etc, all done now)
Off to the LM Classic this week, then Silverstone Classic also planning on doing some of the Scotish legs of the RBCD as well a few of the local Devon legs. Onwards.
Tony in Devon
1967 Series 1, 4.2, OTS, RHD, Black.

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#12 Re: Dyno Testing

Post by H7OB » Sun Jul 01, 2018 7:02 pm

I had an Elan Plus 2 set up on a dyno with Peter Burgess who is a bit of a A & B series / SU guru. Even though it was on Dellortos he spent a lot of time, opening out jets etc with tiny drill bits, re running, fettling etc etc.The end result was probably nearly 10 % better at the top end and lovely and crisp throughout the rest. Mines undergoing a certain amount of work at the moment but Im really tempted to do the same when its up and running.
Paul
'68 Series 1.25 2+2

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#13 Re: Dyno Testing

Post by PeterCrespin » Tue Jul 03, 2018 6:09 pm

Heuer wrote:
Sat Jun 30, 2018 10:45 am
I had my car dyno'd by Hi-tech Motorsport as did Angus. They are reliable and know what they are doing.
That's better than his first rolling road experience elsewhere, when he lost piston #6!

Note to E-Type owners: Unless they remove the bonnet altogether, working on the engine means the bonnet is raised and during a rolling road session the front air intake is tilted downwards, blanking off the radiator. Thus even a humungous dyno fan in front of the car cannot get a straight shot at the radiator without some huge flexible ducting. You should survive the first hard pull, but after that?
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas

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#14 Re: Dyno Testing

Post by Heuer » Wed Jul 04, 2018 9:21 am

To be fair Angus had a problem caused by the people who rebuilt his engine - the failure could just as easily of happened on the road. H-Tech Motorsport, at least in my experience, do not make engine adjustments whilst the car is on a dyno run so the bonnet can be down. They analyze the metrics from each run, make adjustments and do another run until they get it right. Each dyno run lasts no more than 10 - 15 seconds; no gear changes, just acceleration up to the red line and then off the gas. There is usually a 5 - 10 minute gap between runs so the car is not under too much stress. They did not remove the bonnet on my car, used a huge fan for cooling and the whole job took less than an hour to complete.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red

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#15 Re: Dyno Testing

Post by PeterCrespin » Thu Jul 05, 2018 1:21 am

Sounds like a really good place for dialing in the EDIS. There was certainly a lot wrong with Angus's engine in terms of it being not as described and paid for (you could see it was standard, not Stage 2) but I’m not certain a lower tune caused the partial seizure and I don’t recall measuring ring gaps or skirt clearance. I do agree the builders were prime suspects though.
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas

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#16 Re: Dyno Testing

Post by 1954Etype » Thu Jul 05, 2018 7:04 am

Think I should join in here. No 6 partially seized and whether it was due to being too tight in the bore or insufficient cooling I don’t know. As I needed the caR for a long trip on the continent the following week, I honed the bore and changed the piston in situ. That was when I found it was a std engine.

When we returned, the engine was rebuilt. The company wasn’t CMES.

HI tech Motorsport were fantastic. They revved it up to 4500 only (they decided they didn’t need any more) and the results were perfect.
Angus 67 FHC 1E33656
61 OTS 875047

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