SRS 2 BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER

[esv683]

Can anyone recommend a supplier for a SRS 2 brake master cylinder,thanks

[Tom W]

I recently got one from David Manners, through their eBay store.

[esv683]

Hi Tom
Have you fitted it yet and did it work ok ?
regards steve

[Tom W]

Yes, fitted and works fine. They’re still made new on the original tooling, so no reason to expect any different. Only 2 differences from the original. One is the ID tag is now a plastic cable tie instead of the original metal tag. Not the end of the world, unless you’re into concourse. 2nd is they come with a banjo for the outlet (S3 style), so you have to either replace it with the female outlet from the original, or make up a new line from the master cylinder to servo.

[esv683]

Thanks for the reply Tom. the reason for the question is that in the mk1 mini world they have reproduced servos and have had problems with them sticking so I wanted an opinion from some one that had fitted one of these remade brake master cylinders . My plan is to fit a new one and refurb the old one for stock.

[esv683]

[mgcjag]

Hi....are we talking S2 cars....what part are you refering to as the master cylinder.....becaus you mention mini and servo.....as far as im aware on the mini the master cylinder in on the servo.......on the E type the master cylinder is connected via the brake pedal......connected to the servo is the slave.....Steve

[esv683]

OK the only reason I mentioned the mini is when the servos were remanufactured for the mk1 mini they were made by Caparo and suffered from sticking probably the same manufacturer as the srs2 e type master cylinder, so I was asking if some one had fitted a remanufactured master cylinder was it working ok .hope this explains it for you.

[johnetype]

I bought a S2 brake master cylinder from David Manners 2 years ago and it was branded TRW. It's working fine - even on DOT 5 silicone brake fluid - and SNG Barrett sell TRW branded master cylinders as well.

[esv683]

Thanks john

[Classicboy]

The LucasTRW cylinders Manners sell are not OE.

Lockheed manufactured the later e type BMC's.

Barratts only sell the OE Lockheed ones.

[42south]

Hi
I just saw the mention of Caparo master cylinders sticking and it rang a bell with me.
I fitted one to my S3 about 3 years ago and have since suffered from slow release of brakes gradually getting worse. I cleaned the reaction valve piston twice to no effect, changed the servo, then finally the master seemed to lock up and I decided to refurb it.
On inspection the bore was good so I lightly honed it, fitted a new set of seals, and reassembled it, using loads of red rubber grease. The piston was very tight in the big bearing with the rubber oring, this is blue in my one. I consulted an old school mechanic and his opinion was it would never work that tight. This could explain the sticking brakes if the piston couldn’t return.
So we got another bearing from an old cylinder, fitted that, And it was much freer, haven’t tried it yet, but high hopes.
So maybe there is an issue with recent Caparo manufactured master cylinders sticking as referred to in the earlier post.
If so it would help explain the large number of postings about sticking, or slow to release brakes.
Cheers

[42south]

Hi Guys
Well fitted up the overhauled master cylinder with the looser bearing, as described above, and a stronger spring in the reaction valve. Probably didn’t need the stronger spring but I understand some top jag outfit in the UK recommend it, so while your in there why not.
Have to say the brakes have never been better. I think the new master I fitted around 3 years ago was sticky and slow to return from the start.
I bled the system using a suction bleeder from snap on tools, driven off a small compressor. This worked a treat, once around, all bubbles out, and a hard pedal.
Hope this may be of help to some other jag man tearing his hair out over sticky slow to release brakes.

[42south]

Hi Guys
Further to the above post.
The problem a number have faced is the sticky, slow return of the master cylinder, gradually getting worse as the engine heats up. This was certainly my problem and got worse with time.
So now since taking the measures outlined above I have done several 50km or so drives in 25+ degree Celsius conditions with not a hint of stickiness.
After several years of frustration I'm so pleased to have finally solved the issue, thanks mainly to the comments of my old school mechanic.
Yes, first isolate the pneumatics to show whether it is hydraulic or pneumatic problem, if pneumatic check the reaction valve piston, clean and lubricate. It it is hydraulic then the steps outlined above may be your answer.
cheers