Repairs to S1 cam cover
#1 Repairs to S1 cam cover
Hi all,
It looks like the majority of the ‘running-in’ oil leaks are coming from the exhaust side cam cover. The garage that had a look at it suggested that there could be hairline cracks around one or two of the stud holes and possibly elsewhere. They said they can be welded - anyone recommend someone/somewhere to get thus done?
It looks like the majority of the ‘running-in’ oil leaks are coming from the exhaust side cam cover. The garage that had a look at it suggested that there could be hairline cracks around one or two of the stud holes and possibly elsewhere. They said they can be welded - anyone recommend someone/somewhere to get thus done?
Richard
Previous owner and restorer of a S1 3.8 FHC Opalescent Golden Sand with Tan Trim 889504 (now sold and headed for Athens)
Previous owner and restorer of a S1 3.8 FHC Opalescent Golden Sand with Tan Trim 889504 (now sold and headed for Athens)
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#2 Re: Repairs to S1 cam cover
Hi Richard,
For what you will pay someone to weld this properly, you won’t be far off the price of a good second hand one. Welding something like the cam cover without distorting it or ending up with a porous weld is a skill in itself. Someone on here had his cam covers destroyed by a so called specialist.
I know an aerospace welder we use for work who can do it but it could be sat on their shelf for ever before they touch it. Give me a call if no other suggestions come up.
Simon
For what you will pay someone to weld this properly, you won’t be far off the price of a good second hand one. Welding something like the cam cover without distorting it or ending up with a porous weld is a skill in itself. Someone on here had his cam covers destroyed by a so called specialist.
I know an aerospace welder we use for work who can do it but it could be sat on their shelf for ever before they touch it. Give me a call if no other suggestions come up.
Simon
Simon
1969 S2 OTS
1969 S2 OTS
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#3 Re: Repairs to S1 cam cover
SNGB can sell you a pair of new ones: https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/Englis ... 6d3afe35eb
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
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#4 Re: Repairs to S1 cam cover
Hi Richard,
I always use Loctite 5910, never got them leakfree without it, do not omit the bore for the tach generator.
Before buying a new cover, make sure you have a crack, maybe try a detecting spray.
I always use Loctite 5910, never got them leakfree without it, do not omit the bore for the tach generator.
Before buying a new cover, make sure you have a crack, maybe try a detecting spray.
Mark
1963 OTS 880436
1963 OTS 880436
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#5 Re: Repairs to S1 cam cover
Craven and Nicholas in Boston 01205 364004 did one of mine 4 years ago for £50. Tig welding fixed 2 cracks caused by over-tightening (not me I might add). Been fine since!
Sealing them 100% is a bit of a faff, but now I reckon it takes me 1/2 an hour per side.
My solution for leak free S1 old round cam covers is as follows,
Make sure the mating surfaces are spotless prior. Use a blade if necessary. Check for distortion using a surface, if you have one. If not, just have a go and hope for the best.
Check that non of the studs are protruding further out from the head than any of the others. One or two might not be screwed in properly or even just be different.
Either-
Use a Cometec gasket (expensive), paste the stud threads, then fit the cam cover to the gasket.
or
Use Wynns gasket (in the controllable dispenser) with the paper seals. Glue the gasket and seal to the head, paste the stud threads, then glue the cam cover to the gasket. Dont use too much, just a thin bead.
Use 1/4 inch doughty washers, followed by the copper washers.
Tighten the domed nuts just over finger tight, no more. The early covers distort easily. Ensure the gasket does not slip out of alignment as you tighten.
Check with a sharp instrument that non of the washers are spinning under the domed nuts. This is common as the repro studs/domed nuts can bottom out prior to contacting the washer. Add copper washers under any loose nuts so full pressure is attained.
Use a blade and cloth to remove and excess sealant.
This tends to work.
I have thought about placing rubber seals on the stud shoulders prior to dropping the cam covers on. I dont see why this would not help at it would help prevent oil getting to the underside of the stud hole and it would also help support the cam cover when tightening preventing distortion.
I have never tried it though. In my experience with Jaguars, if they didn't do it from the factory there was usually a good reason.
Sealing them 100% is a bit of a faff, but now I reckon it takes me 1/2 an hour per side.
My solution for leak free S1 old round cam covers is as follows,
Make sure the mating surfaces are spotless prior. Use a blade if necessary. Check for distortion using a surface, if you have one. If not, just have a go and hope for the best.
Check that non of the studs are protruding further out from the head than any of the others. One or two might not be screwed in properly or even just be different.
Either-
Use a Cometec gasket (expensive), paste the stud threads, then fit the cam cover to the gasket.
or
Use Wynns gasket (in the controllable dispenser) with the paper seals. Glue the gasket and seal to the head, paste the stud threads, then glue the cam cover to the gasket. Dont use too much, just a thin bead.
Use 1/4 inch doughty washers, followed by the copper washers.
Tighten the domed nuts just over finger tight, no more. The early covers distort easily. Ensure the gasket does not slip out of alignment as you tighten.
Check with a sharp instrument that non of the washers are spinning under the domed nuts. This is common as the repro studs/domed nuts can bottom out prior to contacting the washer. Add copper washers under any loose nuts so full pressure is attained.
Use a blade and cloth to remove and excess sealant.
This tends to work.
I have thought about placing rubber seals on the stud shoulders prior to dropping the cam covers on. I dont see why this would not help at it would help prevent oil getting to the underside of the stud hole and it would also help support the cam cover when tightening preventing distortion.
I have never tried it though. In my experience with Jaguars, if they didn't do it from the factory there was usually a good reason.
Its true, but Enzo never said it
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
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#6 Re: Repairs to S1 cam cover
Thanks all for the info.
I’m a bit reluctant to shell out £660 until the quality has been established.
There are some used covers on eBay that are described as being crack free but again taking a bit of a risk at £250.
I may go down the doughty and loctite route but would also like to explore the welding option (taking on board the potential risks involved)
I’m a bit reluctant to shell out £660 until the quality has been established.
There are some used covers on eBay that are described as being crack free but again taking a bit of a risk at £250.
I may go down the doughty and loctite route but would also like to explore the welding option (taking on board the potential risks involved)
Richard
Previous owner and restorer of a S1 3.8 FHC Opalescent Golden Sand with Tan Trim 889504 (now sold and headed for Athens)
Previous owner and restorer of a S1 3.8 FHC Opalescent Golden Sand with Tan Trim 889504 (now sold and headed for Athens)
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#7 Re: Repairs to S1 cam cover
First, just try a smear of clear silicone into the crack, followed by tightening the nut down to 4lbft with a newly annealed copper washer.
I'm teaching myself to TIG aluminium at the moment and a repair like that will be pretty tricky. Not only do you have to get the crack sealed but then you need to get the profile back to original.
The latter is probably the hard part and may never look good.
I'm teaching myself to TIG aluminium at the moment and a repair like that will be pretty tricky. Not only do you have to get the crack sealed but then you need to get the profile back to original.
The latter is probably the hard part and may never look good.
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
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#8 Re: Repairs to S1 cam cover
Have you seen the Solution Welding rods.they are low melting point and just need a Blow torch.
I have never used them but seen them demonstrated at shows.
I do not know if they work but the videos look impressive.
Could work for non structural repairs.
Just an option to try providing you hold the cover down to prevent warping.
Tony
I have never used them but seen them demonstrated at shows.
I do not know if they work but the videos look impressive.
Could work for non structural repairs.
Just an option to try providing you hold the cover down to prevent warping.
Tony
Tony (E typed)
1962 E Type Series 1 Roadster (OTS)
Tony
1962 E Type Series 1 Roadster (OTS)
Tony
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#9 Re: Repairs to S1 cam cover
I’ve seen cracks in alloy wheels welded up to gain air tightness. Presumably they also stay in shape.
Series 1 FHC purchased 40 years ago. Courted my wife in it.
Series 1 2+2 when the kids were small now sold.
Series 1.5 OTS in opalescent maroon, Californian car. My retirement present.
Series 1 2+2 when the kids were small now sold.
Series 1.5 OTS in opalescent maroon, Californian car. My retirement present.
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#10 Re: Repairs to S1 cam cover
Tony : I have indeed used such rods for this very purpose, and extremely effective they are . As with most of these things, cleanliness is everything
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#11 Re: Repairs to S1 cam cover
The issue with welding these is that they often end up banana-shaped.
My car had cracks - from overtightening - that had been repaired by VSE with some sort of black epoxy (as had the sump) and they were all perfectly oil-tight ; personally I would try this before going for welding, and there is no way I would ever try the "soldering" method demonstrated in shows - I have a fair bit of welding and brazing experience, yet found those magic-sticks completely impossible to use in practice ; as aluminium drags heat out so fast from a complex shape like that, I would be concerned about getting a correct uniform temperature around the critical zone.
Rob Beere's opinion is that most leaks come from over-polished covers where the seating surface for the copper-washers is no longer flat ; they use a pillar drill, fitted with a spot-facing cutter equipped with a pilot, to flatten the seats of all the cam-cover fixings.
I am sure that they would do a set of your covers for a fee.
I saw the repro covers close-up and thought they were unsatisfactorily different to the originals.
Beere expect to have Dowty-type washers made in copper shortly, so that they look right.
For the time being these are a good substitute ; piling a copper washer on top of them is IMHO a misnomer as the leak pathway remains between the copper and the nut.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11445&p=120859&hili ... ll#p120859
My car had cracks - from overtightening - that had been repaired by VSE with some sort of black epoxy (as had the sump) and they were all perfectly oil-tight ; personally I would try this before going for welding, and there is no way I would ever try the "soldering" method demonstrated in shows - I have a fair bit of welding and brazing experience, yet found those magic-sticks completely impossible to use in practice ; as aluminium drags heat out so fast from a complex shape like that, I would be concerned about getting a correct uniform temperature around the critical zone.
Rob Beere's opinion is that most leaks come from over-polished covers where the seating surface for the copper-washers is no longer flat ; they use a pillar drill, fitted with a spot-facing cutter equipped with a pilot, to flatten the seats of all the cam-cover fixings.
I am sure that they would do a set of your covers for a fee.
I saw the repro covers close-up and thought they were unsatisfactorily different to the originals.
Beere expect to have Dowty-type washers made in copper shortly, so that they look right.
For the time being these are a good substitute ; piling a copper washer on top of them is IMHO a misnomer as the leak pathway remains between the copper and the nut.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11445&p=120859&hili ... ll#p120859
Rory
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
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#12 Re: Repairs to S1 cam cover
Hi Rory,
- offtopic, but what a lovely new avatar!
The seats are off my car at the moment, so I should think twice about what to install
- offtopic, but what a lovely new avatar!
The seats are off my car at the moment, so I should think twice about what to install
Mark
1963 OTS 880436
1963 OTS 880436
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#13 Re: Repairs to S1 cam cover
Yes Rory,
I never knew Mary Berry had such good legs.
I never knew Mary Berry had such good legs.
Its true, but Enzo never said it
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
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#14 Re: Repairs to S1 cam cover
I knew that calling Louise in from the pool, to lie in the footwell legs akimbo "to hold spanners on the Eiffel Tower frame-nuts", would give me an opportunity to get more views on the Forum.
Suckers to a man.
Suckers to a man.
Rory
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
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#15 Re: Repairs to S1 cam cover
That’s got to be one for our glamour gallery, can’t you post a hi res copy for us all to enjoy
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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