E10 in my fuel tank!
#1 E10 in my fuel tank!
I found myself in Oundle the other day with the needle hovering near the E so I drove to the only petrol station I know in Oundle only to find it closed. So I had to feather the right peddle to get home to Corby and went to the nearest petrol station, the BP at Weldon only to find they had no E5!!
So I splashed a couple of gals E10 in, and went home in the rain, intending to top up with E5 later, but didn't, and now weather conditions preclude taking the car out.
Any thoughts/advice welcome.
So I splashed a couple of gals E10 in, and went home in the rain, intending to top up with E5 later, but didn't, and now weather conditions preclude taking the car out.
Any thoughts/advice welcome.
Jerome Lunt
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
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#2 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
My only concern would be if there was salt on the roads. ....a bit of E10 will do no harm....just top up with premiem...Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#3 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
If you are going to lay the car up for a little while, just add a stabiliser additive along with 5-10 litres of E5 from a petrol can and run the car for a while to purge the fuel to the system.
Paul.
1971 S2 FHC (Opalescent Blue)
1990 Mercedes Benz 260E
1972 Saab 96 V4
A number of Nortons.
1939 Triumph T100
1971 S2 FHC (Opalescent Blue)
1990 Mercedes Benz 260E
1972 Saab 96 V4
A number of Nortons.
1939 Triumph T100
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#4 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
For what it’s worth: I’ve been running my 3.8 liter, 9:1 E-type on unleaded 10% ethanol exclusively for the past 10 or 20 years here in the U.S. with zero ill effects. Nothing has melted, the valves haven’t destroyed their seats and the car starts, idles and runs perfectly.
Find something else to worry about.
Alan
N.J.
Find something else to worry about.
Alan
N.J.
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#5 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
In Europe I often had to run on E10. No harm. Maybe long term with continual use there might be, but I'm sure the occasional tankful will do no harm.
Malcolm
I only fit in a 2+2, so got one!
1969 Series 2 2+2
2009 Jaguar XF-S
2015 F Type V6 S
I only fit in a 2+2, so got one!
1969 Series 2 2+2
2009 Jaguar XF-S
2015 F Type V6 S
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#6 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
Thank you all, Alan AJ in particular
So no need to be bothered about seals and flexi pipes then. I'll bung some E5 in from a couple of cans and run the engine periodically anyway through winter to keep it going.
One "problem" I have is in starting from cold after a period of idleness - 3/4 weeks say. It takes a lot of churning over to get it started with full choke or not so full choke. There after it starts immediately.
Could it maybe the dashpot pistons sticking down? Or something else. 123 leccy ignition (not programmable) and properly set up.
So no need to be bothered about seals and flexi pipes then. I'll bung some E5 in from a couple of cans and run the engine periodically anyway through winter to keep it going.
One "problem" I have is in starting from cold after a period of idleness - 3/4 weeks say. It takes a lot of churning over to get it started with full choke or not so full choke. There after it starts immediately.
Could it maybe the dashpot pistons sticking down? Or something else. 123 leccy ignition (not programmable) and properly set up.
Jerome Lunt
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
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#7 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
Lots of posts on the forum re cold starting difficulty....just try a search....Steve. ....viewtopic.php?f=6&t=13161
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#8 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
My car also takes loads of churning when it's been left for a while. I think it takes time to draw enough mixture into the big balance pipes. Starts immediately from hot, and from cold when in regular use. So again, I would suggest nothing to worry about. Just make sure you keep your battery topped up! When my car is being left for a while, I use an Optimate conditioner to keep it spot on. I use a Ctek on my F type - does the same thing.
Malcolm
I only fit in a 2+2, so got one!
1969 Series 2 2+2
2009 Jaguar XF-S
2015 F Type V6 S
I only fit in a 2+2, so got one!
1969 Series 2 2+2
2009 Jaguar XF-S
2015 F Type V6 S
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#9 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
I think it is standard for an E Type to need a lot of turning over when they have not been used for some length of time. I presume it is getting fuel into the carbs that takes the time. After that then they start very easy hot or cold. Just my experience.
Tony
Tony
Tony (E typed)
1962 E Type Series 1 Roadster (OTS)
Tony
1962 E Type Series 1 Roadster (OTS)
Tony
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#10 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
A couple of years ago one of the well-known E Type UK specialists was offering an E10 kit....replacement parts for those items which are/might be affected by E10......mostly gaskets and fittings on the fuel delivery lines. Anyone had experience of this kit, did it work and if so is it still available?
Stuart
Stuart
Series 1.5 FHC
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#11 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
Thanks for replies re: cold starting.
I just wanted to be sure there was no known cause for this with a known cure and to understand if it is a general "problem".
I cannot see it as due to waiting for the carbs to fill as once the pump stops ticking, they are full surely.
Seems rather odd, to me.
I just wanted to be sure there was no known cause for this with a known cure and to understand if it is a general "problem".
I cannot see it as due to waiting for the carbs to fill as once the pump stops ticking, they are full surely.
Seems rather odd, to me.
Jerome Lunt
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
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#12 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
Hi Jerry.....i refered you to all the previous posts on difficult cold starting......yes many have this problem. ...but there is plenty you can do......are your carbs set up correctly....especially the choke. ....enrichment to pull the jets down correctly when you operate the choke lever.....dont just assume your carb are correct....check them out....also dont press the throttle pedal when trying to start on choke.......Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#13 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
I don't think it's waiting for the carbs to fill; as you say, when it stops ticking, theyre full. It's more to do with the balance tube that the mixture is drawn into .JerryL770 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 14, 2022 7:23 pmThanks for replies re: cold starting.
I just wanted to be sure there was no known cause for this with a known cure and to understand if it is a general "problem".
I cannot see it as due to waiting for the carbs to fill as once the pump stops ticking, they are full surely.
Seems rather odd, to me.
Malcolm
I only fit in a 2+2, so got one!
1969 Series 2 2+2
2009 Jaguar XF-S
2015 F Type V6 S
I only fit in a 2+2, so got one!
1969 Series 2 2+2
2009 Jaguar XF-S
2015 F Type V6 S
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#14 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
One good thing about a lot of engine churning before starting when the car hasn't been started for a while is it gets the oil circulating before firing up.
I have an ignition cut-out switch which I use to do exactly this - turn the engine over until the oil pressure rises, then fire it up.
Also, I have a fuel cut-out switch which I switch on when I am ready to fire up so that I don't get bore wash from petrol when churning the engine over.
Cheers,
Richard
I have an ignition cut-out switch which I use to do exactly this - turn the engine over until the oil pressure rises, then fire it up.
Also, I have a fuel cut-out switch which I switch on when I am ready to fire up so that I don't get bore wash from petrol when churning the engine over.
Cheers,
Richard
1950 XK120
1965 S1 E Type DHC
1989 Porsche 911 Carrera cabriolet
1965 S1 E Type DHC
1989 Porsche 911 Carrera cabriolet
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#15 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
My car suffers with poor cold starting as well. Left for a week or so it's fine. But left for 2 weeks or more it's not good at all. The engine just stumbles but won't properly catch. It does this quite a number of times before it starts properly. The best explanation I've read was from Andrew down under.....
If you leave a car with SUs to sit the fuel in the bowls will evaporate; they're open to atmosphere. I assume this is also true of Strombergs.
So after a while whatever fuel is in there (if any) isn't fresh and has lost the more volatile (and flammable) hydrocarbons. Depending on your tune this may make the car harder to start.
If you leave a car with SUs to sit the fuel in the bowls will evaporate; they're open to atmosphere. I assume this is also true of Strombergs.
So after a while whatever fuel is in there (if any) isn't fresh and has lost the more volatile (and flammable) hydrocarbons. Depending on your tune this may make the car harder to start.
Andy
1970 S2 FHC
1965 SB Corvette Ragtop
1970 S2 FHC
1965 SB Corvette Ragtop
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#16 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
I think it does partially to do with fuel but not so much the float bowl. Those are quickly filled with fresh fuel by the pump once the key is turned on. Wait a few seconds for them to fill and they are ready as ever.
However, fuel is left in the carb throat and a charge of unburned fuel in the cylinder when you shut down.
If starting in a few days it remains and is ready to ignite immediately.
If left for a longer period it will evaporate and the engine will take a little longer to ignite.
Also, if oil pressure is achieved through cranking with no ignition or fuel pump, and if the float bowls have fuel in them, it will still result in unburned fuel washing the cylinder walls as the engine will draw the fuel in causing wear. I have seen electric charging pumps used for this purpose if felt necessary.
Other factors also contribute to slow starting of course. And excessive cranking looks to additional issues.
The lack of fuel remaining in the cylinder is one huge contribution mulitpoint electronic fuel injection has made to engine longevity. Unlike carbs it stops the fuel when the ignition is shut off and charges the cylinder immediately at first crank. No excess fuel to wash the cylinder walls then or in other performance areas.
However, fuel is left in the carb throat and a charge of unburned fuel in the cylinder when you shut down.
If starting in a few days it remains and is ready to ignite immediately.
If left for a longer period it will evaporate and the engine will take a little longer to ignite.
Also, if oil pressure is achieved through cranking with no ignition or fuel pump, and if the float bowls have fuel in them, it will still result in unburned fuel washing the cylinder walls as the engine will draw the fuel in causing wear. I have seen electric charging pumps used for this purpose if felt necessary.
Other factors also contribute to slow starting of course. And excessive cranking looks to additional issues.
The lack of fuel remaining in the cylinder is one huge contribution mulitpoint electronic fuel injection has made to engine longevity. Unlike carbs it stops the fuel when the ignition is shut off and charges the cylinder immediately at first crank. No excess fuel to wash the cylinder walls then or in other performance areas.
Layne
Car #876005, 62 OTS
Car #876005, 62 OTS
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#17 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
It is true that modern fuel "goes off" quite quickly and it becomes more difficult to start an engine. I have no information as to whether E5 is better than E10 in this regard... any facts on this?
Stuart
Stuart
Series 1.5 FHC
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#18 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
If E 5 , 5% alcohol, goes off faster than 100% gas then yes E10, 10% alcohol, would go off a little faster.
Sealed fuel supply systems help longevity.
A 62 E with a vented cap will go off faster than whenever jag went to a sealed system with a non-vented cap and the vapor recirc system. Early 70s?
Early systems can be helped with the use of MODERN vented fuel caps which have a one way valve. It allows an inward draw of air but needs 3-4#s of pressure in the tank to vent out. For example if you filled up cold and the fuel warmed you would not get fuel evap unless pressure built beyond the low pressure valve.
I don’t believe any of the “ correct” caps have that feature but you don’t see it on a Jag and it is easily switched when wanted. Motorad makes a modern cap that fits.
And in general the higher the octane the longer it will last in the tank or can. Of course it still evaps in the carb.
So finish your year with race gas if you start periodically or run the carbs out of gas before storage.
A full tank is better for storage but bad-for a bunch of old gas at some point. I believe an empty tank with fog of WD40 periodically depending on storage length would be good.
If you have a tank sealed with a good product then empty is ideal.
Sealed fuel supply systems help longevity.
A 62 E with a vented cap will go off faster than whenever jag went to a sealed system with a non-vented cap and the vapor recirc system. Early 70s?
Early systems can be helped with the use of MODERN vented fuel caps which have a one way valve. It allows an inward draw of air but needs 3-4#s of pressure in the tank to vent out. For example if you filled up cold and the fuel warmed you would not get fuel evap unless pressure built beyond the low pressure valve.
I don’t believe any of the “ correct” caps have that feature but you don’t see it on a Jag and it is easily switched when wanted. Motorad makes a modern cap that fits.
And in general the higher the octane the longer it will last in the tank or can. Of course it still evaps in the carb.
So finish your year with race gas if you start periodically or run the carbs out of gas before storage.
A full tank is better for storage but bad-for a bunch of old gas at some point. I believe an empty tank with fog of WD40 periodically depending on storage length would be good.
If you have a tank sealed with a good product then empty is ideal.
Layne
Car #876005, 62 OTS
Car #876005, 62 OTS
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#19 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
My E Type also takes a lot of cranking before starting if left for more than a couple of weeks.
Years ago I had a Herald 13/60 with a Stromberg carb. Always started easily, no matter how long left. However, when fitted with twin SU carbs from a Spitfire it was very difficult to start if left for a longer period. This had a mechanical fuel pump so it may be an SU issue.
Years ago I had a Herald 13/60 with a Stromberg carb. Always started easily, no matter how long left. However, when fitted with twin SU carbs from a Spitfire it was very difficult to start if left for a longer period. This had a mechanical fuel pump so it may be an SU issue.
Simon Brown
1969 S2 OTS
1998 XK8 Coupe
2008 Mazda MX-5 2.0 Icon
1991 Mini Cooper 1.3i
1969 S2 OTS
1998 XK8 Coupe
2008 Mazda MX-5 2.0 Icon
1991 Mini Cooper 1.3i
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#20 Re: E10 in my fuel tank!
Do Strombergs have an accelerator pump like a Holley or Carter?
Layne
Car #876005, 62 OTS
Car #876005, 62 OTS
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