Clutch master cylinder

[tim wood]

I may need to change my clutch master cylinder.
Came across this:-

https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#/UK ... f9826cd4e2

£332 !!!

I may just pass on this one.

All of the usuals sell cheaper versions of course but of more interest is that this is just a generic version for many vehicles and available at half the price.

It pays to shop around !

[gtjoey]

Dont blow it......
Get the WILLWOOD ,Its the exact look and spec but BUILT to the best quality....
NO LOOSE ROD, OR THE STEP DOWN CLICK.
The rest are repro junk.
Get the Willwood , its brand new and top quality, I dont think its 50 dollars?
gtjoey1314

[tim wood]

Thanks Joey,
I’m seriously considering the Wilwood.
Have heard about too many failures on the cheapo generic units.

Tim

[tim wood]

Thanks to those who posted replies and for those who sent a PM.

On going through old receipts I found that I haven’t replaced this master cylinder but did use a seal kit about 3 years ago. I think that this is starting to fail. See my other thread on black clutch fluid.

Anyway, i wasn’t prepared to spend serious money on the genuine jaguar master cylinder and frankly am very dubious about the very cheap repro items which can be obtained anywhere with prices from about £12.
These fit a multiple of vehicles.
It’s a it of a faff changing this so I wanted a quality bit of kit.

From advice here I went for the Wilwood cylinder which arrived today. I won’t get to fit until next week but it does appear extremely well made . Cost was about £50

[mgcjag]

Hi Tim....the part number would be usefull for anyone in the future wanting to copy you....cheers...Steve

[tim wood]

Hi Steve,
This is the item.

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/wilwood-co ... lsrc=aw.ds

I also purchased the associated fork end, which by the way has a simple end clip so no fumbling with split pins whilst lying on my back in the footwell.

( if it’s not acceptable to show supplier details then please delete this post)

Service from the supplier was exceptional, ordered late yesterday afternoon and delivered today.

Tim

[bitsobrits]

I've been running a Wildwood clutch MC for a dozen years or so with zero issues. Replaced seals in the clutch slave cylinder three times in that time, most recently with the Isuzu Trooper piston and seal recommended over on the U.S. Jag Lovers site. I'm hopeful I'm done with clutch hydraulics issues for awhile. I do change my hydraulic fluid (brakes, clutch) every couple of years, btw.

[tim wood]

Just thought I would continue this saga whilst relaxing with a well earned cup of tea.

So how do you change this item? Well first of all ignore the manual. The most difficult task is gaining access to the cotter pin between pedal and cylinder. This is hidden deep in the bowels of the footwell .
So you can either disconnect all hydraulics ( including the brakes which you have spent countless hours bleeding) and remove the pedal box complete or prepare yourself for entry down down below.

To get to this item you need unhindered access and importantly means to get out again!
So remove the drivers seat and the the steering wheel, carpets and associated coverings.
Now the interesting bit;
With good lighting in one hand and needle nose pliers in the other you lie on your back, head deep in the footwell with legs dangling over the rear bulkhead. Perspiring heavily wrestle with the split pin ( providing you can see it )

After about 45 minutes having cut the split pin into bits and the cotter pin extracted and you’re done.

Just one last thing keep your mobile phone within reach so your loved one can tug you out should you get stuck.

[mgcjag]

we need photos

[rfs1957]

I think there may already be a picture of Here’s One I Made Earlier ……….

See my avatar.

What did you think Louise was up to on her back in the footwell ?

[Gfhug]

What did you think Louise was up to on her back in the footwell ?

Wouldn’t we all like to know!

[tim wood]

I was going to refer to Rory’s avatar but this is a family show !

I maybe able send one of me in a similar position but my legs don’t seem to have the same attraction.

[44DHR]

Sorry to join the party late - and return the post to boring technicality - but another solution giving more durability than a plain aluminium unit, (of whatever manufacturer), which would always remain prone to bore corrosion, is to simply send off the unit to be sleeved in stainless steel.
Regards,
Dave

[tim wood]

Just a little addition to this now the job is mostly completed.

The cylinder fits perfectly. The size is exactly the same and all fixings, pipework etc line up with any changes.

The small fly in the ointment was that you can’t use the the very neat fork end and associated clevis pin as the width between the forks is too small. So you have to reuse the original. Five minute job to change over but it means that you’re back to using a split pin through the clevis.
So tomorrow it’s back to bleeding the system.

As a footnote :
When I dismantled the used cylinder it had no signs of leaking but the bore and seals were decidedly black so i may have caught this in time. All started with a routine fluid change !!

Tim

[gtjoey]

Tim, Great job, You will notice once you press the pedal that the ACTION is smooth throughout
And theres no gap or jingle step and click as the crap repros do.
Tell us the great news once bled.
gtjoey1314