Ser1 lower steering column and universal joint

[CHASLON]

The Ser1 lower steering column (on my 1965 OTS) has the yoke of the lower universal Joint forged onto the end of the long shaft.
This forged yoke prevents the column being withdrawn through the bulkhead and out into the cockpit.
Therefore it is recommended that the shaft should be removed by taking off the bonnet and the radiator and all that associated work, to withdraw it through front of the car.
I notice that the Ser2 lower column is fitted with splines to the universal joint at the lower end which would make it easy to remove for overhaul.

I realise that there are probably issues with later colapsible columns, but was hoping that there might be a combination of parts that would combine a Ser1 upper column with a lower column having a splined lower Universal joint.

I hope that makes sense.
As I work single handed I do not relish having to remove the bonnet and dismantle the front end just to fit new bearings to the universal joints.
Does anyone have experience of these Ser1 Ser2 steering columns?

[mgcjag]

Hi...Whats your name....put it in your signature area if poss......havent ever removed the lower coloum so not sure if you can wriggle it out(as you say the manual says remove bonnet).....however have a look here at how to remove a bonnet on your own....i have done it and its not difficult.....also see your in Worcester.....im in Ludlow..so could possibly help if needed.... Steve viewtopic.php?t=6058&highlight=bonnet+remove

[abowie]

It is possible (although not easy) to take the lower uni joint out and service it with the steering column in situ.

I used a suitably sized G clamp and a socket and removed the UJ from the shaft end. I was then able to slide the steering rack end off the rack spline and take it out of the car. This will enable you to replace the uni joint, and to fettle the splined joint if it is loose (common problem). You still can't actually get the steering column out but you don't need to.

The usuals list C20487 the later solid shaft with splines top and bottom for sale, which should/might allow you to use the later all in one splined uni fittings C28599 both top and bottom.
The later collapsible columns are not available, which is a pity because personally I would fit them to all my cars if I could.

[CHASLON]

Thanks for that Steve, a neat bit of work with your bonnet.
I have owned my car for 40 odd years and have removed bonnet more than once.
I would like to see anyone try to wiggle the column out, (I have tried). It is so unnecessary if only the ser1 column had splines at both ends, as the ser2 seems to have.
Would welcome meeting in Worcester, I am based in Bewdley.
Cheers Rick.

[44DHR]

Rick,
I can confirm that I have removed this shaft on my Series 1 without removing the bonnet to renew the joint. I did remove the radiator, but I think I had the car at a height to enable the shaft to come out forwards following it's trajectory through the car. I will try to dig out some photos tomorrow if I have any.
It has a unique lower joint clamped onto the steering column using a recessed Allen Headed screw to provide clearance which a conventional bolt head would not allow, so I'm unsure if a later shaft with bolted U/J would work.
Regards,
Dave

[abowie]

Rick,

It has a unique lower joint clamped onto the steering column using a recessed Allen Headed screw to provide clearance which a conventional bolt head would not allow, so I'm unsure if a later shaft with bolted U/J would

I've successfully put a bolt through on one of my cars and it clears ok. I don't have any cars with the double splined column so I'm not sure what goes at the bottom, hence my hesitance about the all in one UJs in my post above.

[CHASLON]

Thanks for that Guys.
A contact at SNG B. tells me that they have an appropriate shaft splined at each end!
He says he will send me the part number.
Apparently normal column UJs with nut and bolt clamp will clear on the rack pinion end.
My experiences years ago with the clamp bolt on the lower UJ, resulted in using a very high Tensile socket head bolt, (both threads tidied up with tap and die) with a top class allen key and a length of tube for extra leverage on the Key, before the MOT man was happy.
Rick.

[44DHR]

Rick,
Just to clarify about the lower U/J - or more importantly the bottom part that clamps onto the steering rack spline - I thought that part had to have a recessed Allen Key headed screw to provide clearance against the picture frame on Series 1 E types.

I attach a few photos as I had some play and a damaged circlip groove in the part which clamps onto the steering rack spline and bought some splined female joints which had that recessed Allen Key design on one half and a normal bolt fixing on the other end. My Series 1 has the long steering shaft with a forged end to take the U/J spider, but these parts I had sourced I assumed fitted a later version with a long shaft splined at each end to link the Steering column to the rack. I removed the Allan Key part and used a new spider to fit my shaft, but the photos show how tight that is against the picture frame and why I believed a conventional bolt and nut if used in this location to clamp onto the steering rack spline would foul.







Regards,
Dave