I have bought a new seal and bearings kit from Barratts but it is slightly different from what came out. It is the right kit but with an updated seal arrangement. There are no installation instructions and Barratts tech guy is off. From the pictures below can anyone tell me if that is the correct way round for the seal part before I start putting it all together. Secondly should it be assembled with some sort of rubber grease? New seal is on the right.
Thanks
Simon
Water pump seal replacement
#2 Re: Water pump seal replacement
Hi Simon,
The white part is on the axle wich turn, the black one on the fixed axle.
The sealing is effected by the contact "dry on dry" between the very hard white part and its black opposite which is also very hard.
Onto the first pompe with the broken turbine, you have the both old seals.
One with the spring ( the new is the black part )and its opposite just at the bottom of the turbine( the new is the white part).
If you disassemble them you'll find the equivalent seals that you bought and will understand how it work.
Beware with the turbine it's very fragile.
Impossible to do this properly without an hydraulic press.
Hope it's help you
Mich
The white part is on the axle wich turn, the black one on the fixed axle.
The sealing is effected by the contact "dry on dry" between the very hard white part and its black opposite which is also very hard.
Onto the first pompe with the broken turbine, you have the both old seals.
One with the spring ( the new is the black part )and its opposite just at the bottom of the turbine( the new is the white part).
If you disassemble them you'll find the equivalent seals that you bought and will understand how it work.
Beware with the turbine it's very fragile.
Impossible to do this properly without an hydraulic press.
Hope it's help you
Mich
Michel
1965 E Type FHC - On the road / 1963 E Type OTS - on the road after Angus Restoration
1965 E Type FHC - On the road / 1963 E Type OTS - on the road after Angus Restoration
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#3 Re: Water pump seal replacement
Thanks for the quick reply Michel,
Just to confirm then, the way I have it on the pencil is correct?
Simon
Just to confirm then, the way I have it on the pencil is correct?
Simon
Simon
1969 S2 OTS
1969 S2 OTS
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#4 Re: Water pump seal replacement
Simon,
For the white part it's ok.
For the black one if it's the very hard ring at the top it's also ok but I can't see it on the photo.
But again, disassemble the axle with the brake turbine and sure you'll understand how it work.
Mich
For the white part it's ok.
For the black one if it's the very hard ring at the top it's also ok but I can't see it on the photo.
But again, disassemble the axle with the brake turbine and sure you'll understand how it work.
Mich
Michel
1965 E Type FHC - On the road / 1963 E Type OTS - on the road after Angus Restoration
1965 E Type FHC - On the road / 1963 E Type OTS - on the road after Angus Restoration
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#5 Re: Water pump seal replacement
Thanks Michel,
Très apprécié et très utile.
Simon
Très apprécié et très utile.
Simon
Simon
1969 S2 OTS
1969 S2 OTS
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#6 Re: Water pump seal replacement
Hi Paul,
Sorry but I think that what I said about your seals is true and false also.
After reflexion, there's a possibility that as there is not a lot of pressure, the well machined back of the turbine replace the white seal.
The turbine has a long back and the axle is not very long.
Take the mesures, it depend on the thinkness of the turbine to put or not the white seal
Mich
Sorry but I think that what I said about your seals is true and false also.
After reflexion, there's a possibility that as there is not a lot of pressure, the well machined back of the turbine replace the white seal.
The turbine has a long back and the axle is not very long.
Take the mesures, it depend on the thinkness of the turbine to put or not the white seal
Mich
Michel
1965 E Type FHC - On the road / 1963 E Type OTS - on the road after Angus Restoration
1965 E Type FHC - On the road / 1963 E Type OTS - on the road after Angus Restoration
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#7 Re: Water pump seal replacement
If you buy a 4.2 water pump repair kit, C30811K, you get an extra white ceramic seal that isn't mentioned in the Jaguar Service Manual.
As the pictures have gone from this posting you can't see where the ceramic seal goes and as the "thrower" listed in the Jaguar Service manual has been dropped from current water pump repair kits you might assume the white seal is the thrower, which it is not.
The nose of the impeller in the C30811K kit is shorter than the original to allow room for the ceramic seal. The ceramic seal is a big improvement to the pump as originally the graphite of the water pump seal faced onto the cast iron of the impeller nose whereas now it faces onto the smooth, hard white ceramic giving a longer life.
The reassembly order with the ceramic seal is; replace the bearing and shaft in the housing; in the words of Jaguar "coat the outside of the seal housing with a suitable water resistant jointing compound and fit into the recess in the pump casting. Push the seal into the housing with the carbon face towards the rear of the pump."; then slide the ceramic seal down on the pump shaft so that the white side contacts the rear of the seal leaving the black (rubber) side of the ceramic seal facing outwards towards the nose of the impeller. Using a press, push the cast iron impeller on until there is a 15" thou. clearance between the impeller and the pump housing.
As the pictures have gone from this posting you can't see where the ceramic seal goes and as the "thrower" listed in the Jaguar Service manual has been dropped from current water pump repair kits you might assume the white seal is the thrower, which it is not.
The nose of the impeller in the C30811K kit is shorter than the original to allow room for the ceramic seal. The ceramic seal is a big improvement to the pump as originally the graphite of the water pump seal faced onto the cast iron of the impeller nose whereas now it faces onto the smooth, hard white ceramic giving a longer life.
The reassembly order with the ceramic seal is; replace the bearing and shaft in the housing; in the words of Jaguar "coat the outside of the seal housing with a suitable water resistant jointing compound and fit into the recess in the pump casting. Push the seal into the housing with the carbon face towards the rear of the pump."; then slide the ceramic seal down on the pump shaft so that the white side contacts the rear of the seal leaving the black (rubber) side of the ceramic seal facing outwards towards the nose of the impeller. Using a press, push the cast iron impeller on until there is a 15" thou. clearance between the impeller and the pump housing.
John
1969 Series 2 FHC
1969 Series 2 FHC
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#8 Re: Water pump seal replacement
John, how easily did the impeller turn when you had the kit fully installed as you describe?
I’ve followed your instructions, as, like others found, there are no clear instructions from SNGB how to fit the items. Yet when the impeller is at the 15 thou clearance it is very stiff to turn as the seal is compressed and puts a lot of friction on the shaft.
Thinking I had fitted things badly I took it all apart, once the pressure is off the seal the impeller turns freely.
But, and it’s a big but, having taken it all apart I found the impeller had cracked with the effort of pressing it onto the shaft. Not at all impressed by this
Geoff
I’ve followed your instructions, as, like others found, there are no clear instructions from SNGB how to fit the items. Yet when the impeller is at the 15 thou clearance it is very stiff to turn as the seal is compressed and puts a lot of friction on the shaft.
Thinking I had fitted things badly I took it all apart, once the pressure is off the seal the impeller turns freely.
But, and it’s a big but, having taken it all apart I found the impeller had cracked with the effort of pressing it onto the shaft. Not at all impressed by this
Geoff
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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