New To Doors, does this look right please ?

[265bhp]

Very cool Rory

[Geoff Green]

Great job Rory! Let us know of the final details of fitting and adjusting. The added serial number stamped in the doors is a grand touch!

Did you get one of these? Has anyone got a spare one of these spire-nut plates they'd chuck in the post ? I've got 5 and it would be nice to have the 6th !

As for the extra length of the rubber; as the car ages the rubber shrinks and after some years the rubber seal will seem too short.

[rfs1957]

Thanks, boys. Geoff, look at the other Doors posting

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=11675

later today as have some bits left over, happy to give away, will post picture.

R

[288gto]

Superb job Rory,

I especially like the stamped in numbers. I've been writing the chassis number in permanent marker in various hidden places as I've rebuilt the car but yours is a far better solution.


Simon

[288gto]

Double post.

[rfs1957]

Found some more details that might help someone.

These show a tool I knocked up to make tightening the dors onto the hinges less fraught.

The bolts were a b---h to get at on both sides, but a couple of sockets welded into a bit of flat plate, followed by a bit of grinding, gave me a super-thin 1/2" off-set socket that made door adjustment a doddle.









This is a "locol colour" shot to show just how seriously good French panel-beaters take E-Type door-skins, and how offended they are to discover filler has been used to disguise dings on a panel ; carry on like this and Marc will Brexit us whether we vote for it or not.



This shows a way of cutting the top rubber to lie better against the glass-chrome interface.



And this shows an alternative to the original self-tappers and their spire-plates when you've got threaded-inserts embedded in the skin-reinforcing angles that I showed earlier in the post.





And these shots show the plug-welding of the reinforcing angles, the length across the outside of the skin is just to keep it flat during the welding.

[Philippe-J.]

Hi,

I'm resurrecting this thread about door accommodation as I am discovering the strange design of the top drain channels. On my OTS they are not only pop riveted at the top of the door frame, but brazed on two locations too:



Can anyone confirm it is nominal? Thanks!

The frame-channel seam is sealed with some material that has dried in time, letting water to ingress. As a result rust has proliferated in between. So dismantling is on order to fix it.

Philippe

[andrewh]

It looks correct to me. I will try to check mine this morning and post unless someone gets there before me.

[Philippe-J.]

Thank you Andrew.
BTW another question: how waterproofing is made along the horizontal line in the photo, i.e. between the length of the drain and the door frame? By seam sealant, brazing or lead loading?

[andrewh]

here you go , I hope this helps.





The door seal will help stop water from dropping onto this shelf, but some will make its way there and thats where the holes come into play, the water drops down into the bottom of the doors and theoretically drains out of the slots in the bottom of the door.

[Philippe-J.]

It surely helps, thank you!
It can be seen in the second picture that the seam between the rear of the drain and the door frame looks like filled with brazing.
Not so sure however about the seam along the length of the drain. It seem to be empty. I guess that filing it with PU sealant will do no harm, will it?

Regards.

[andrewh]

I am sure you should seal it from allowing any water to get between it and the door frame/ skin. Andrew

[Philippe-J.]

That's what I'll do.
Regards.

[Philippe-J.]

Folks,

another question about my doors. One of them is quite dented on its front section, the one on the left:



Is this section seen once the door is installed? Should I flatten it (with lead loading)? Or can I let it as is?

Thanks for your opinion.

Philippe

[Gfhug]

Philippe, you don’t really see that section once the inner panels are fitted to the door, even when the door is open as the panel extends beyond the face and hides it when closed.

Geoff

[Philippe-J.]

Good news, one task saved! Thanks.

[Geoff Allam]

You can see parts of that panel from inside the car when the door is opened. It is only a small expenditure of time to smooth the metal and then fill and sand with a good quality polyester filler. If you just leave it you will notice it every time you open the door for as long as you own the car. Just my opinion but you never regret doing a quality job.

[Philippe-J.]

Yes, even if not seen by anyone, it can obsess you if you know there is a flaw somewhere. And the most heavy work is done: the doors are dismantled. It's a matter of few hours, to be compared to the duration of the whole restoration
So OK Geoff, I'll take your advise into account.
Philippe

[Geoff Allam]

You will not regret doing it right. 20 years ago I restored a 68 Camaro for my son and wanting to get the job finished I cut a few corners in non visible areas. The car was sold 10 years ago but knowing that I did not do it 100 percent still bothers me.