Fuel Injection Jenvey Throttle Bodies

[politeperson]

This is what shes is like now. A little drive.

[politeperson]

Well,

So, in summary, I purchased a straight, rust free, low mileage LHD S2 fhc from the West Coast of the USA a couple of years ago, through ebay.

I have always wanted an e-type, nothing else will do. However, it has to work!

I have wanted one since I saw the Italian Job when I was 3. I remember it now like yesterday.

Having owned one for a couple of years the yearning for the car is more intense now than it ever was! Its like being married to Claudia Schiffer.

The car had not run for many years in the states. I have replaced the rear suspension, the diff (with a 2.88 XJS LSD), the prop uj's, overhauled the gearbox, swapped the motor for a new one, done a RHD conversion, replaced the cooling system, changed wheels, bearings, tyres brakes, brake lines, lights, dash lights, steering system, interior panels, dash panels, upgraded the starter, exhaust heat shield, clutch (3 piece) master and slave, replaced the front suspension, carpets, heater, fans, and other sundry items.

Oil pressure was a bit of a mystery. On the new engine the electric gauge read 25psi at 3,000 rpm when hot.

With a new sender, this changed to over 60 psi at idle! With a proper capillary gauge, the new engine was found to be producing 40 psi at idle and 80 psi at 3,000 rpm when hot. Excellent.

So all new, and has been pretty straightforward working on it, as corrosion has not been an issue at all. It has been great to meet e type owners and I would do it all again tomorrow. Maybe I will!

I took the car over to Emerald today and she spent a few hours on the rollers.




She feels plenty quick enough, so it was interesting to find out what was actually going on with the new engine and throttle bodies.

Remember, the new engine is a bog standard S1.5 4.2, with 8:1 compression pistons, a stainless steel "sports" exhaust system and an Emerald ECU with 45mm throttle bodies and 6 injectors.

My aim was to achieve a car that was reliable, reasonably economical whilst being peppy. I want to take it all over Europe this summer.

I also love looking at my car, but unless I can use it like a modern car I have little interest. I want to get in it, turn the key and know I will get there. I don't want to own an expensive ornament.

So it is basically all new now, apart from the paint.

With my SUs it was good speed-wise, but I was struggling to achieve 200 miles on a tank, with a heavyish foot and 63l of fuel.

I had fitted the whole Jenvey setup with the existing Paul Roach MAP racing setup for a tuned 3.8 with flowed head and wild cams.

I noticed it smelt very rich whilst I was driving in my 4.2 and fuel consumption was high teens at best.

John at Emerald mapped my engine. My effort at balancing the throttle bodies was spot on, so it went straight on the rollers where it spent 4 hours at different rpms and throttle loads whilst the laptop was plugged in and John mapped the motor.

The result of all this shenanigans was that the car is putting down 200 bhp at the rear wheels whilst producing 347 n/of torque from about 2200 rpm.

It is not leaking a drop of oil or spitting out water or smoking or smelling either! It sounds great.

I have now completed 290 miles on one tank of fuel. The car is super smooth and idles very well and hold its temperature.

In summary then, I do not own the quickest e type, but I am very happy with the results for the financial input.

So, what next?

I have already started the rebuild of the original 4.2 which will be 9 to one CR with "special" heads" and cams. I am not fussed if it takes a year or 2 to complete.

I intend to reuse the throttle bodies and the rest of my gubbins.

The only mod I wish to make to the engine at the moment is to replace the alternator with a Nipon Denso unit.

So I reckon I am ready to go anywhere now.

[mgcjag]

Hi James...great write up...keep enjoying it..... Steve

[dal2.0litrefrogeye]

That tourque figure is the nuts

[politeperson]

Dazzer,

It is 300 Nm at 1025 rpm, rising to 347 Nm at 2200 rpm (256 lb/ft), then dropping to 300 Nm at 5200 rpm.

So you get a nice shove at low revs.

It slots in with this lot. Weighs a bit less than most of them though I would think!

Alpine A610 3.0 V6 - [1991]258 lb-ft @ 2900rpm
Porsche 911 Carrera 4 996 - [1998]258 lb-ft @ 4600rpm
Seat Leon ST Cupra 265 - [2015]258 lb-ft @ 1750rpm
Volkswagen(VW) Golf GTI 2.0 Turbo - [2016]258 lb-ft @ 1500rpm
Volkswagen(VW) Golf GTI 2.0 Turbo DSG - [2016]258 lb-ft @ 1500rpm
Audi Coupe S2 2.2T Quattro - [1993]257 lb-ft @ 1950rpm
Mitsubishi Pajero | Shogun Evolution 3.5 V6 - [1997]257 lb-ft @ 3000rpm
Subaru Forester STi (tS) 2.5L Turbo - [2012]256 lb-ft @ 2800rpm
Chevrolet Chevelle-Malibu SS 350 Coupe 2nd Gen - [1973]255 lb-ft @ 2400rpm
Chevrolet Camaro 5.0 V8 RS - [1990]255 lb-ft @ 2400rpm
Toyota Supra 3.0 Turbo - [1988]254 lb-ft @ 3200rpm
Mitsubishi Lancer GSR Ralliart Sportback SST - [2008]253 lb-ft @ 2550rpm
Subaru Impreza WRX STI V3 - Classic (JDM) - [1996]253 lb-ft @ 4000rpm
Subaru Impreza WRX STI V3 V-Limited - Classic (JDM) - [1997]253 lb-ft @ 4000rpm
Subaru Impreza WRX STI V3 Type R - JDM - Classic - [1997]253 lb-ft @ 4000rpm
Lotus Evora 3.5 V6 - [2009]252 lb-ft @ 4700rpm
Porsche Cayman S 3.4 Turbo - [2005]251 lb-ft @ 4200rpm
Peugeot RCZ 2.0 HDi 200 GT - [2009]251 lb-ft @ 2000rpm
Ford Focus 2.0 ST-3 - [2011]251 lb-ft @ 1750rpm
Alfa-Romeo Giulietta 235 Cloverleaf - [2010]251 lb-ft @ 1900rpm
Ford Focus Wagon ST - [2011]251 lb-ft @ 1750rpm
Land-Rover Evoque 2.0 Si4 - [2010]251 lb-ft @ 1750rpm
BMW 5 Series M5 E28 - [1985]250 lb-ft @ 4500rpm
Subaru Impreza WRX - Classic (JDM) - [1999]250 lb-ft @ 4000rpm
Subaru Impreza WRX STI V6 - Classic (JDM) - [1999]250 lb-ft @ 4000rpm
Subaru Impreza WRX STI V6 Type RA - JDM - Classic - [1999]250 lb-ft @ 4000rpm
Mastretta MXT 2.0 Turbo - [2010]250 lb-ft @ 3950rpm
Honda Accord Coupe EX-L - [2008]248 lb-ft @ 5000rpm
Lexus ES 350 - [2012]248 lb-ft @ 4700rpm
Porsche 924 Carrera GTS (937) - [1981]247 lb-ft @ 3000rpm
Volvo S60 T5 2.4 Turbo - [2000]246 lb-ft @ 2400rpm
BMW 6 Series M635 CSi E24 - [1984]246 lb-ft @ 4500rpm
Ford Taurus AWD 3.5 V6 - [2007]245 lb-ft @ 4500rpm
Dodge Neon 2.4 SRT-4 - [2002]245 lb-ft @ 3200rpm
Volkswagen(VW) Golf R 2.0 Turbo - [2012]243 lb-ft @ 2400rpm
Audi A3 S3 2.0TFSI Quattro - [2007]243 lb-ft @ 2400rpm
Porsche 944 Turbo - [1984]243 lb-ft @ 3500rpm
Ford Mustang 2 King Cobra - [1978]243 lb-ft @ 1600rpm
Subaru Impreza WRX - Classic (JDM) - [1996]242 lb-ft @ 4000rpm
Subaru Impreza WRX Type RA - Classic (JDM) - [1996]242 lb-ft @ 4000rpm
Ferrari 208 Turbo 2.0L V8 - [1986]242 lb-ft @ 4100rpm
Jaguar D Type 3.4L - [1954]242 lb-ft @ 4000rpm
Pontiac G6 GTP 3.9 V6 - [2006]241 lb-ft @ 2800rpm
Lamborghini 350 GT 3.5L V12 - [1964]241 lb-ft @ 4500rpm
Aston-Martin DB4 1958 - [1958]240 lb-ft @ 4250rpm
Pontiac Firebird Sprint 3.8L - [1967]240 lb-ft @ 3800rpm
Jaguar XJ S 3.6 Coupe - [1983]240 lb-ft @ 4000rpm
Nissan 300ZX 3.0 V6 Turbo - [1984]240 lb-ft @ 4400rpm

[politeperson]

Just a quick update, about todays activities.

Going to lots of events in the heat, getting stuck in traffic I was getting problems. Spluttering and general misery.

I guessed my fuel temperature was too high causing fuel evaporation. This was because I had mounted my swirl pot and pump in the engine bay where they like to suck in heat.

This was in turn because I had been too lazy to figure out how to fit a fuel return line all the way from the engine bay back to the tank without drilling holes in the original body. I dont like doing that.

So I have now fitted an in tank fuel pump with swirl pot, just like modern cars.

Phil kept pestering me to do it and of course he was right!

Cool fuel from the tank now is ignited and unused warm fuel returns to the tank for cooling.

I discovered a new pipe route into rear/under luggage area to the fuel tank.

It already exists on the left had side of the car in front of the main fuel tank. I passed 8mm copper line through that hole with a new grommet without having to remove the tank. This original hole is there to allow the "carbon filter" lines to pass from the tank to the front, on US spec cars maybe other market cars too.

The engine bay can get as hot as it wants now and my fuel does not boil, as warmed fuel is returned to the main fuel tank instantly. No spluttering in traffic now.

I also fitted a stupendous Allicool Alloy Rad with shroud and fans this afternoon.

Took 20 minutes to swap, everything is now much cooler according to the guage. This assumes my temperature gauge reading is vaguely proportional to my engine temperature of course! The rad thermostat is a 3 pin Fossway unit. Allicool made sure I could transfer it from the old re cored rad. I ordered it on Wednesday of last week and I t arrived one week later. As it was made especially for me, that is pretty good!

The fans really blast it out like a heat gun too.

I must post some more driving vids as she is really ripping it up these days. She sounds EPIC. I will take the Go Pro to Goodwood tomorrow.

The power delivery is there all over the rev band, fuel economy is good too, now doing 250 miles on a tank.

Wicked.

[mark10337]

more details on the pump and swirl pot arrangement pretty please make, model etc.? Any issues with the fitting? Where did you attach the return line to the tank?

[phil.dobson@mac.com]

glad you got around to fitting the in tank solution. its also a lot safer !
i have just been to the classic lemans in my etype now back on SU's it was bl..dy hot weather and i got stuck in some horrible traffic on the way down but the car behaved really well. i have a kenlow fan and it works well
.

[politeperson]

Yes Le Mans was fiendishly hot. Luckily all our cars behaved.





Yes, I have been a bit sketchy on the details, it was all a bit of a rush.

I will post some more pics later today of the setup.

Arrived back from the Festival of Speed at midnight after a round trip of 400 miles.

Stuck on the M25 for an hour in the heat. No missing. Queue into the FOS no probs.

This is part due to the Allicool setup as well.

Later.

[politeperson]

The in tank pump is a Bosch 0580453606 unit. It is controlled by a +12v source, so it is on when the ignition is on.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=05804 ... 66&bih=627

I took the feed and earth from the SU. I want to add a relay, impact switch and fuse!

The fuel pump body doubles as the swirl pot. The original fitment entailed welding a round holder in the bottom of the tank around the fuel tank sump. I modified the unit by welding two rods into the top plate so the fuel unit is fixed 1mm above the bottom of the tank. This means it is relatively easy to withdraw if necessary as I is like o modern in tank pump.



The custom top plate has fuel in and fuel out connections, with 2 wires for the pump passing through a sealed hole.



I do not know what the fuel body is from. It is unmarked. I did buy a BMW petrol fuel pump and body the other day and that would have done the trick with a custom top plate.

I think any in tank pump unit would do if it is from a fuel injected petrol car and will fit into the tank opening at the top. At the end of the day, fuel pressure is controlled by the fuel regulator under the bonnet, unused fuel sent back to the tank.

The access hole just above the tank on the left hand side of the picture above. The white stuff is what petrol does to satin black when you spill a bit.

[politeperson]

This is how it goes now, power-wise, this about as far as I am going to take it.

Unless it all blows up tomorrow.

All other future mods will be refinement and preservation I think. I still haven't injected the box sections with Waxoil yet. I must do it.

Seems to be behaving though! Should do with the amount of money and time that has been directed towards it.

I did a not too harsh 0-60 and a 30-quite to fairly quick in third so you get an idea of the noise, flexibility and overall sense of terror.

What I like is that even with the 2.88 rear diff it still wants to pull like a train in 4th at speed.

Private roads optimistic speedo etc.

[H7OB]

Just having a beer, sitting by my bbq in the evening sun, really enjoying those videos! Looks like it pulls like a train! Worth all the effort!

[politeperson]

Thanks Paul,

Yes, I just want to keep it this way. Unfortunately life seems full of "events", so we will see.

Mark, The return line is secured to the car useing P clips screwed into the original holes on the left hand chassis leg that also hold the carbon filter lines.

So I didn't even have to drill one hole.

I refuse to post a picture of the return line until I have had the chance to straighten it up.

I had to bend it as I pushed it through from the boot hole.

This afternoon I had the pleasure of fitting the Fossway alternator. Took 20 minutes.

So here is the new rad.shroud/fans and ACR alternator.

Fabo.

[Damoyorkie]

Fantastic videos, and looks like things are well and truly fettled.

I am seriously considering the EFI route now, as my US import is on dual Strombergs. I might just wait until it is back on the road, see how it is running, and whether I get on with them, and then do the change. Would you be able to let me know (in a PM if needs be) how much you think the total set up with the in-tank swirl pot has cost ?

Cheers

Damien

[politeperson]

Well I would estimate now the cost would be-

Emerald 6 cylinder throttle body + ECU kit with Jenvey 45mm T/Bs linkages, coils, injectors, sensors, loom £1,900 + VAT
ING Sausage Filter £300 + VAT
Mangoletsi/Rob Beere Manifold £900?
Opel? Swirl-pot with Bosch in tank Pump £100
Tank Top Plate £50
Fuel Lines £100
Fuel Regulator £50
Rolling Road £400
Sundry Items
So I would guess around £4,500 incl VAT all in.

I understand you can make your Strombergs pretty good by simply rebuilding them, setting them up with the secondary butterflys removed. That wont cost much. I know a man in Colsterworth who is the nuts on these carbs (and any others I I think).

In addition I have a "big valve" head with .39 lift cams (rebuilt ie guides, valvers, seals, shimming bearings etc) £1,250 guess.
A "sports" SNG stainless Steel exhaust and manifold £1000.

The engine rebuild including machining, water pump, timing gear, gaskets, pistons bearings oil pump etc was another £3,500. Compressions are running an even 170 psi on each cylinder and oil pressure is good.

The rad pack from Allicool is another £930 all in with shroud, fans vat and delivery.

[politeperson]

Still buzzing along nicely.

[Barry]

.....none of these photos will download because the sender host name can not be found.....or is it me!

[politeperson]

I should think it me Barry. Ill have another go.

James

[Barry]

Thanks James.

[Barry]

Whatever you did, I have pictures! Interesting indeed, many thanks.