Sump Removal

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Hi Everyone

This is becoming a bit of a habit so please bear with me.
This time it's the sump causing problems. I've removed all the set screws and studs, crankcase damper and the oil hose between the sump and the filter housing. In addition the gearbox , clutch and flywheel have been removed-although not necessary for sump removal. I've checked the workshop manual and there doesn't appear to be anything else to do other than catch the sump as it drops off!
Unfortunately my sump doesn't appear to have read the manual and is still firmly in place.I've managed to split the exhaust side along most of it's length but that's about as far as it gets. I suspect the culprit is the silicone sealant that's been slaggered on every gasket.
Am I missing anything? Do I need to rotate the engine to a certain position?

Cheers

Alan

[JD-JAG66]

Is your engine still in the car?
It is necessary to lift the engine up so that you can "drop the sump" enough to clear the reaction plate and move it forward. Or remove the reaction plate. Anyway it is necessary to move the sump down "straight" so you don't end up in my situation where I ended up with the sump baffle assembly becoming stuck onto the plate at the end of the oil suction pump. Eventually I got lucky but I had to hammer the baffle back into shape.


Good luck and Happy New Year.
Jan

[PeterCrespin]

That’s the wrong baffle or it’s a modified saloon sump, no? ,

[abowie]

AS described it should just come off. Hit it harder?

[christopher storey]

I find that a rubber mallet is very useful for this. The sump should just come off but if glued on with e.g. silicone sealant it can be a swine. Also, you might like to try making some wooden wedges and gradually work round with those as you have started doing

[paulsco]

Are you absolutely certain you have all the bolts out?

Paul

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Thanks for the replies.

Rubber mallet it is then. I've already managed to insert some plastic shims left over from our kitchen refurb last year. So I'm at least getting somewhere although very slowly.
I was worried I might be fighting against the engine internals and end up doing some very expensive damage. When I took the sump off the GT6 a few years ago, it literally fell off so was a bit surprised when the same thing didn't happen this time around.
The PO had the engine rebuilt in 2006 and whoever did it seemed to have had a liking for silicone by the ton and it's very sticky when compressed. Maybe the garage had just had a kitchen refurb and over ordered the stuff

Cheers

Alan

[christopher storey]

Alan : I should also have said that if you have a grinder, you can make a very effective scalpel using an old hacksaw blade, which implement will separate old/glued gaskets quite effectively

[Hugo]

I don't like the sound of this. If it is just glued on with sticky sealant, once you break the seal, the rest should be easy.
At the risk of insulting your intelligence, is it possible you have a bolt covered in gunge (oil, road dirt etc) that you have missed?
Depends how far you can move the sump - if you can wiggle it a bit I would just keep wiggling. If it's a question of forcing a thin wedge in one side & that's as far as it goes, I would proceed with caution.

[PeterCrespin]

It is necessary to lift the engine up so that you can "drop the sump" enough to clear the reaction plate and . Anyway it is necessary to move the sump down "straight" so you don't end up in my situation where I ended up with the sump baffle assembly becoming stuck onto the plate at the end of the oil suction pump. Eventually I got lucky but I had to hammer the baffle back into shape.

Again, this XJ sump and baffle have nothing to do with E-type parts, or reaction plates, or pick-up pipes getting snagged in the baffle etc. The parts shown here are very different and the XJ has no reaction plate but does have a honking great subframe you have to pivot out of the way. You cannot use these sumps on E-types without surgery. Are you sayng the parts in the photo have come off your E-type?

[JD-JAG66]

Hello Peter, I installed an XJ6 engine in my E type, following instructions of an article you wrote some years ago.
When I started it up, I noticed an oil leak from the rear crankseal, which required replacement.
I followed instructions found on the site, (which if memory serves me well, mentions that the engine should be lifted a little as to clear the reaction plate - which I removed to make life easier) as wel as possible, but experienced some difficulties with removal of the sump, which were caused by the oil pick up pipe becoming stuck in the baffle. A joy to resolve...
Anyway yes, that picture shows and XJ6 engine/baffle used in my E type.
Hope this clarifies matters?
Have a great day
Jan

[Durango2k]

This ist one of the best tools I‘ve ever come by. It would do this job in seconds:

https://fein.com/de_de/oszillierer/masc ... ltimaster/

Carsten

[Hugo]

It would chew the sump up, wouldn't it?

[Durango2k]

No- take a soft thin blade, and I think it would oscillate-loose the glue.

Carsten

[ALAN COCHRANE]

It's owning up time I'm afraid. I counted the sump bolts I had removed and there was only 25. I'd missed the one underneath the oil filter housing, a schoolboy error. Hopefully once removed the sump should come away a bit more easily. Dooohh!

[Series1 Stu]

Sack cloth and ashes, Alan.

We've all been in that sort of situation, one way or another.

What doesn't kill you makes you stronger.

Regards

[PeterCrespin]

Hello Peter, I installed an XJ6 engine in my E type, following instructions of an article you wrote some years ago. Anyway yes, that picture shows and XJ6 engine/baffle used in my E type.
Hope this clarifies matters?

It does Jan, thank you. So to get the XJ sump between E-type frames and torsion bars and the exhaust, did you chop off just the left side for the downpipes, or both the sides? Have you got photos from above/below at the sides to show how it fits? Did you recalibrate the XJ dip stick? With the two 'wings' chopped off you must lose maybe as much as a couple of litres of oil capacity? I'm sure you realise it's the surface level that's important, not the volume primarily. If you're only left with 4 litres, or whatever, I guess you have the option of fitting a couple of oil cooler hoses to the XJ spin-off filter head to regain some lost capacity on long trips? Alternatively I suppose it's enough just checking the level more often if there is less reserve capacity overall?

It's of interest to others thinking of fitting an XJ motor and balking at the cost of an E-Type sump plus E-type short pick up. I have an XJ sump, baffle and long pick up in the workshop and may be persuaded to tinker with it now.

[JD-JAG66]

Hello Peter,
After reading up on the consequences and difficulties of cutting of a lump of the sump, i decided to leave it as is. So the sump is still in original condition. I decided to take my chances with a local exhaust shop that will make the exhaust go straight down and underneath the sump. Price quote 280£ for the complete system (=can't complain)
I know it will be very close to the road (= too close probably) but we will attempt to "flatten" the exhaust into an oval shape as well as underneath the sump as when it goes under the rear suspension cage.
Pending on the probably disastrous result of a stupid idea, I might have to decide on buying a 4.2 E type sump.
I have fitted the oil cooler of the XJ6 in front of the radiator, lengthening one of the tubes.
Since I think this is not the right thread for this subject, I will report with pictures as soon as I have taken the car on the road, and everything works (I am probably very naive in hoping it will, but fingers and toes crossed). And yes, I will also report if it doesn't.
Have a great day
Jan

[PeterCrespin]

Bedankt Jan en veel geluk op de geplaveide straten!

Maybe Carsten will lend you his big hammer to fix the exhaust. Avoid the Paris-Roubaix or the Kemmelberg :-)

[politeperson]

I have a few XJ6 sumps now.

I would be very interested in hearing any ones experiences regarding "chopping" XJ6 sumps to fit an e type.

This includes lopping off the sides, baffles, pickup pipes and dipstick.

XJ6 sumps are worth scrap. E type sumps seem to be £500 without baffles.

Plenty of good welders and engineering firms live around me, so I could save me some ££ when I embark on my S1 project (I think I need a sump).