Koolmat 2018

[ysmalkie]

David, the Wikipedia page you mentioned contains the R value of Aerogel - Pyrogel same product.
It's 10.
I guess the higher value the better.

Tadek

Koolmat being an American company use 'R' values for resistance to heat flow, which is the ratio of the temperature difference across an insulator and the heat flux (heat transfer per unit area): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R-value_(insulation)

The standard 'R' value for Koolmat is 1.6. Many companies (e.g. Dynamat) are reluctant to publish figures and very careful not to claim anything about heat insulation properties. You will need to find the R value of Pyrogel to make a comparison.

[Heuer]

Indeed, that makes it about six times more effective as a heat barrier than Koolmat. Not sure you would need that level of insulation in the E-type though given the cabin in mind never gets warm from engine heat. You then need to consider the compromises of using Aerogel - thickness, resistance to abrasion, water resistance etc.

[ysmalkie]

Of course, though it comes in 5mm and 10mm thicknesses, so there are options.

And do not be fooled - there are disadvantages to it, too. It's fibreglass type material, so you have to seal (paint it) it properly.

Tadek

[derickreid]

Unfortunately, Koolmat from the suppliers link in this thread, is not shipping to Europe because 'its complicated'
A shame, so it looks like dynamat with a layer of dynaliner will have to do.

[rswaffie]

That’s just what I’ve been fitting!











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[derickreid]

That looks fantastic. What thickness of the dynamats would you recommend?
Thanks

[JJC]

Hi. Have had this stuff in my '73 OTS for years. I have had the car since new, and I can tell you it makes very, if any difference at all. None that can be noticed , anyway. As for noise, in a top down car ???? Not really a concern. If its that hot out, put the top up, and turn on the a/c !! That works every time !!!

Happy motoring !

JC

[rswaffie]

Hi Derick,
I used 2mm Silent Coat sound/vibration layer. On top of that, 6mm Dodo Liner heat insulation. I used a third product on the outer firewall/bulkhead/gearbox tunnel that is designed to reflect heat. I can’t recall what it was called at the moment though.

[gmunro]

Hi Gents. A very interesting topic discussion and it seems that the best way to go is to buy in bulk and cut out the panels yourself. I have seen the "pattern" diagram but my question is - is the pattern a true to size pattern, i.e. do you place it onto the koolmat, draw around the pattern and then cut it out, or is the pattern a guide only as to general shape leaving you to do all the measurements for the individual panels?

Many thanks for your advice. Yours aye,

George

[Jeremy]

I would treat any diagram as a guide only. I used brown paper and carefully made up and fitted the paper templates first. The only way to get it to fit accurately in my view. Esp over the gearbox/tunnel.

[AshM]

Jumping on this post string if I may.

I would like to line the underside of my gearbox tunnel before replacing engine to reduce heat into the car. Any recent recommendations?

thanks
Ash

[Jeremy]

Ash,
Zircoflex. The thin one. It's reflective (so deals with radiant heat only) and self adhesive. Easy to mould to the contours. See Chris Vine's blog for full details.

[rswaffie]

+1 Zircoflex.

[AshM]

Thanks for replies - on the case!

Cheers
Ash

[Heuer]

Also don't forget to use a sheet of foam between the gearbox and top cover.

[AshM]

Yep - thanks David.

I have a new one from SNGB currently taking up space in one of our spare bedrooms with boxes and boxes and boxes of other parts. All awaiting fitting - and I am only doing from bulkhead forward!

Goodness knows what you guys do who have restored the lot in one go.

My fear is the workshop may become my permanent address too if the boxes don't stop arriving.

cheers
Ash