rear brakes

[valley7]

Hey guys,

I haven't posted in a while but I'm still plugging away at my 64 OTS. I got the engine running and I redid the entire fuel system. I decided to tune the engine properly later once the whether warms up (and I obtain a syncrometer) and switch to working on brakes. I did the master cylinders, brake lines and front brakes. I did have a problem with the replacement internal seals on the masters not fitting (just a hair larger than original). After initial assembly the cylinder operated correctly but after a couple hours they would completely seize up. I wound up going back to the original seals which still seemed to be fine.

I've done brakes on scores of cars, so I was running along fine and then I saw where the rear brakes are. I think I now understand why the car was parked for so long after the brakes went out on it. Thanks to some previous posts on the forum and some blog posts I got my IRS out pretty easily. It looks like it has never been touched before. There is no scoring on the rotors and all the pads have at least 3/4" material on them.

So, bearing in mind that I want to leave this car as original as possible (IE, I'm adamantly NOT doing a restoration at this present time), the questions for you experts are:

1. What else should I do while the IRS is out? What items would be worn out with age but not necessarily mileage?
2. Should I pull the rotors and have them turned or just leave them?
3. Do I need to remove the IRS housing to get the calipers off?
4. When I reassemble is it advisable to roll it under the car, attach the brake line, bleed the brakes before lifting and reattaching the IRS? I would hate to get it all put back together and find a leak.

Thanks,
Stephen

[valley7]

here's a picture of the victory... putting it back in looks like it will be harder

[johnetype]

I would:

Reuse the rotors without skimming them as long as they only have surface rust on them. You can check they run true by watching them as they rotate through the caliper.

Save and reuse the pads in their original place (because if they're original material they'll work better then modern pads)

Remove the calipers and rebuild them with new seals and stainless steel pistons. You can get them off without stripping the subframe.

Disassemble and clean/grease the handbrake assemblies.

If the calipers have had new seals and pistons fitted you shouldn't worry about them leaking so just refit the subframe and bleed.

I've just done exactly that after my car has stood unused for 30 years. Went for the MOT last week and got excellent results on the brake test machine.

[cactusman]

If the IRS is untouched..chances are the diff has the original input and output oil seals. If these are original then as you have the IRS out anyway and the brake discs (rotors) are off I would check them very carefully for leaks and probably change them. Remember too that if the pads are original they probably contain asbestos so any brake dust around the IRS will be hazardous to health. Do not blow it about and wear a mask while washing it off.

[chrisfell]

Having had my IRS out for a seal change not long after I bought the car I found it necessary to change the lower wishbone pivot bearings. They were toast, but it was not possible to detect any wear until the IRS was stripped. Having got the IRS stripped that far I replaced everything, bearings rubbers seals, and cleaned off all dirt , painted all surfaces. Discs were OK, as were the wheel bearings. These were repacked with fresh grease, but needed re-adjusting to bring to within the specified end float.

One thing to check is the wear in the splined hub. If these are close to service limits you will experience ‘clicking’ of the hub/wheel under braking, and a worn hub will accelerate wear on new wheels.

[valley7]

Thanks guys. Backing plates separated on 2 of the pads and some of my pistons were pitted. I couldn't see myself putting it all back together just to find it still leaking!! So I have ordered a set of new cylinders w/ stainless pistons and new pads.

Some of the wishbone needle bearings looked iffy, so new rubber and bearings for that going in.

I'm going to take my diff to a shop and have them do the seals and check it out. I pulled my pinion nut off without marking it. A couple guys told me to just re torque it but this sounds risky to me.

I'll post another pic when it's all back together and ready to go in.

Stephen