Rope Seals v Lip Seals. Oh dear what have I done?

[politeperson]

Well so much for rope seals. 4000 miles and 2 years and its toast. Oil drops everywhere.

So no point in whinging, they dont make modern rope seals like they used to (they used to have a high asbestos content, so they didn't burn I believe. Not anymore).

Mine was sized and fitted to perfection, it still failed.

Maybe rope seals work well on cars that dont go anywhere!

So I started to take it all to bits at lunchtime. Now its all apart again. I reckon doing this is better than going to the gym. I am now an expert e type dissembler. Reaction plates? easy.

I have ordered the lip seal conversion from SNG, so John the engine builder will fit it next week. Gives me a little bit of time to clean the engine bay.

I think I must enjoy all this really.

[mgcjag]

Nice one James....i look forward to to your posts on fixing the leaks.....should be back on the road Monday All the best... Steve

[Jeremy]

Sure, you've got all day Sunday, piece of cake....
This is why I took Rob Beere's advice and opted for his seal conversion.

[64etype]

I urge you to use the seal kit from Terry's instead of the one from SNG. The one in my car is absolutely leak free. (Presumably your engine builder knows to machine the crank for the new seal...different dimension depending on which kit you use).

[politeperson]

I picked up the engine on Friday and spent most of today putting it back together.

Did an interesting test drive. No oil leaks yet.

Just one big bit left to do.

[politeperson]

Well she is all back together.

I had no charging from the alternator no cooling fans and no rev counter.

The fans turned out to be a seperated bullet connector hanging off the front of the frames. Once connected the rev counter came back to life too.

The alternator was a connection to one of the pair of relays behind the mud guards.

On the first test drive she developed a nasty misfire and uneven idle.

I whipped the injectors out and gave them there first clean. Once refitted (about 15 minutes work) the engine sounded stronger than ever.

The car is now driving very well, so I hope to put some miles on her this weekend, and maybe do some filming.

Hopefully the leaks have been banished! The cost of the whole thing excluding my time is £500.

[mgcjag]

Hi James...what seal did you go with and did you get the crank machined to fit.....did you also replace the front seal that you fitted recently...how was it...Steve

[politeperson]

Hi Steve,

The crank was machined as per the instructions that came with the SNG kit. That was on a lathe. I think an oil scroll had to be removed and the crank width reduced slightly.

I changed the front seal like for like as I thought disturbing the "old" seal would be enough to stop it working properly. I also removed the oil thrower as advised.

Unfortunately the ring gear replacement didnt go to plan, so I now have an aluminium replacement (a nice American billet piece).

The old flywheel is being rescued over the next couple of months in someones spare time! One of them will go on the new S1 project.

The engine has a lot of zing now, it is not as smooth as before but gives the impression of being a bit more exciting.

Anyway, I am pleased with the overall feel and it goes like stink.

[mgcjag]

Thanks James...all the best.... Steve

[abowie]

The engine has a lot of zing now, it is not as smooth as before but gives the impression of being a bit more exciting.

I found this with my S1.5 fitted with a Fidanza aluminium flywheel.