Crunchy reverse gear

[Sirjames]

Hi
I just completed a lot of work on a 1967 S1
New engine, E type fabs 5 speed box.
The gearbox was already fitted and had done 20000miles, was running well.
With the new clutch, the reverse gear is hard to engage. It can only be engaged if i go through 2nd and 3rd firstly.
I bleed it, the movement of the fork is long, everything seems perfect... but still crunchy when engaging reverse.
Does anyone have any idea?

Thanks
James

[cactusman]

Crunchy gears are usually a dragging clutch. Reverse has no synchromesh so it will be obvious. Probably just dragging ever so slightly and pulling other gears first uses their synchro to stop motion in the gear box hence no crunch ....maybe a minor adjustment of the actuating rod from the slave is all that is needed...

[chrisfell]

Dragging clutch can be an adjustment issue, or it could be the release bearing has worn down to the metal.

[zigzagsky]

If it is a dragging clutch, I would advise sorting it asap. My car looks to have suffered in the past and eventually the reverse gear idler was damaged following an eventual clutch slave cylinder failure causing a nasty knock and a gearbox rebuild. The rebuilder said that the fact that the clutch had dragged for some time previous to the failure had been a big contributory factor.

As far as I can see, the problem is often caused by the fact it is very difficult to bleed all the air out of the clutch hydraulic system properly. The pipe enters the slave cylinder at the top and the bleed nipple is at the bottom. Fosseway do a kit to reverse these which means the air can rise above the fluid and be bled off far more easily.

[mark10337]

My mechanic usually bleeds from the clutch system by forcing fluid in at the nipple and pushing it up to the reservoir. Simply uses an "oil can" filled with brake fluid and a home made adaptor on the nozzle to the nipple. Bled in seconds.

[zigzagsky]

That's a useful tip. Thanks.