Inside engine block. Glyptal or not?

Technical advice Q&A

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kgb123
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#1 Inside engine block. Glyptal or not?

Post by kgb123 » Thu Aug 02, 2018 10:45 am

Hi,

I had my engine block, crank and head all taken care of a couple of years ago. Car is still being restored so the cylinder head that has been rebuilt and set up and crank, that was polished and balanced with all the various crank mounted components, were all bagged up and sit on my parts complete shelf...awaiting a car.

I covered my block in oil impregnated towels and wrapped it up in an attempt to keep it in good condition, however it seems rodents have gone through the bag and towels and the block now has some surfcae rust on inner and outer case, with some infiltration on to the new top hat liners that were fitted. Apparently the liners are recoverable with a honing tool but I wanted to clean up the block and get some paint on it for protection.

For the inside, Glyptal seems to be the way to go, but reading other car and engine forums, some say even this paint deteriorates and can clog up oil pumps etc.

Anyone got an opinion on whether to use Glyptal or not use? Any alternatives been used? Any thoughts on keeping a dissambled engine block in good condition and rodent proof? :P

Cheers

Kevin
1968 Series 1.5 2+2

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cactusman
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#2 Re: Inside engine block. Glyptal or not?

Post by cactusman » Thu Aug 02, 2018 11:13 am

Anything painted on has the potential to come off. Others may know better than me but I'd probably not paint the innards. Outside use an engine paint. Think jaguar painted theirs black. Mine is black.

Probably the best way to keep it vermin proof is to reassemble but failing that places like Dunelm sell large plastic storage boxes for the smaller bits but no good for the block. 're bag and inspect regularly and get a cat :bigrin: Incidentally ACF 50 light oil is good for keeping rust off. Bit like WD40 but heavier....available on that well known auction site...
Julian the E-type man
1962 FHC
1966 MGB....fab little car too

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johnetype
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#3 Re: Inside engine block. Glyptal or not?

Post by johnetype » Fri Aug 03, 2018 8:33 am

I would use Waxoyl or Dinitol to coat the block with something like ACF 50 in the galleries first. You basically want something that will keep oxygen away from the surfaces of the block that you can wash off when you come to re-commission.

As for mice etc., the only solution I've found over the years is to keep them well fed with rodent bait, particularly in the autumn when they come in looking for somewhere to spend the winter. Not a solution if you've got young children or pets though.
John

1969 Series 2 FHC

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kgb123
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#4 Re: Inside engine block. Glyptal or not?

Post by kgb123 » Fri Aug 03, 2018 2:57 pm

Thanks Gents, I'll look into the stuff you've suggested.
Rodent bait bags now all over the garage so hopefully get the little buggers when they revisit
Kev
1968 Series 1.5 2+2

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mgcjag
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#5 Re: Inside engine block. Glyptal or not?

Post by mgcjag » Fri Aug 03, 2018 4:09 pm

Hi Kev..make sure you put traps down as well....i found a stash of bait that they had draged away and stored behing a cupboard.... :bigrin: cunning little varmits... Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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cactusman
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#6 Re: Inside engine block. Glyptal or not?

Post by cactusman » Fri Aug 03, 2018 5:45 pm

Best solution for mice is a cat :bigrin: :bigrin:
Julian the E-type man
1962 FHC
1966 MGB....fab little car too

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H7OB
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#7 Re: Inside engine block. Glyptal or not?

Post by H7OB » Fri Aug 03, 2018 9:01 pm

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/2x3kg-Storm-Se ... 1058431579


Flocoumafen. I live in a barn surrounded by fields! It’s definitely the most effective stuff I’ve used but now classified as for professional use only but still possible to buy.
Paul
'68 Series 1.25 2+2

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Jeremy66
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#8 Re: Inside engine block. Glyptal or not?

Post by Jeremy66 » Wed Aug 08, 2018 9:50 pm

My engine had been left in a wet chicken shed for 30 years with the Head and sump off so had even managed to rust inside where oil had once been.

I had it acid dipped and machined and then used Glyptal (spray can from frosts) on the inside and timing end as once cast iron starts to rust even when cleaned off it tends to come back and I didn’t want the oil getting contaminated over prolonged periods of not being used over the winter months.

The stuff sprays on very thinly and likes to run, it’s a lacquer really rather than a paint. It smells horrendous and you need to use a decent cartridge type mask, lots of masking off etc but goes off nice and hard and so far the engine oil has stayed nice and clean.


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kgb123
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#9 Re: Inside engine block. Glyptal or not?

Post by kgb123 » Mon Aug 13, 2018 9:10 pm

Nice Pics Jeremy, thanks. From your post I guess the engine is back in the car and running.

The reason for my initial enquiry about Glyptal was its ability to withstand modern oils etc. Some folks were saying it peeled off and clogged the oil pump, others said it worked fine. Then as per the earlier responses on this thread there were other options to consider.....not cat related :bigrin:

Steve...If I get the cat he''ll need to be sharp on his feet as the satanic labrador i have will probably see the cat off long before the cat gets near a mouse :bigrin:

Still not decided what to do with the engine. Back on a short hold now as the bodyshop are back on the car again after a break to look after a rush job on a Ferrari.

E Type Fabs frames, picture frame and bonnet mount went in and I'm happy to report that all the mounting points lined up almost exactly (slightly adrift in one of the bulkhead points, but only a little pressure on the frame on passenger side addressed that. With the ETF frames having good alignment with the mounting points, for me its ani indication the bulkhead and therefore reference points from there are in reasonable shape. The only slight misalignment issue that will need attention is where the frames bolt into the bottom of the foot welsl near the reaction plate mount. The E Type Fabs arrangement seems to have dropped the front of the car with the bonnet on when compared with the original frames. I've no suspension or bushes in yet so that might make a difference and it could be that if the front is nudged up a tad, the mounting points will come back into alignment. I'll let you know.

Kev
1968 Series 1.5 2+2

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