Jacking points

[Erikantwerp]

Hello everyone,

AFter locating the jacking points (middle of the car), I noticed that one of them is in bad shape. Ha sanyone experience in reparing/renewing them to their original state or how to go about either your self or with the help of some company ?

Also, I do relaize that these jacking points are not the best/stable when used with the original jack (I just want the car back to its original state as best as I can get it), so another question is where are the best "jacking points" closer to the wheels ?

As always, many thanks for any clarification/comments/suggestions.
cheers
Erikantwerp

[Car-Nut]

Hi Eric,

Whe I was down at Harry's and we had one of his E's on the ramp he pointed out the front and rear jacking points and said that on the front one sometimes people put a piece of wood there and attach it with some wire so not to damage the jacking point.

Clive

[Erikantwerp]

Hey Clive,

Can you tell me more where these front and back jacking points are ? It may be that Harry's is a series III which I believe have different jacking points then a series I ?

In any event, many thx for the feedback.
cheers
Erikantwerp

[Car-Nut]

Eric,

Are now where they are but not the name of the parts

We need of bit of Harrys knowledge here....

It was a series 1 we were looking under :)

[e-bygum]

Erik
My understanding is that SWB cars have two jacking points - one each side approx in the middle underside of the sills but you know where they are . The LWB cars have two jacking points on each side towards each end of the sills.
You can jack the front of the car up under the middle of the picture frame but do not put the jack directly against the metal. Fit a piece of hardwood into the channel along the bottom of the picture frame so that the jack is in contact with the wood.
You can also jack under the front lower wishbone fulcrum support brackets and under the lower wishbone adjacent to the shock absorber mounting.
Never jack under the frame rails or bonnet frame.
It is not advisable to jack the rear of the car without supporting the IRS so that it doesn't hang on the rubber mounts. I believe the trick is to jack against a wood block on the IRS between the exhaust pipes but make sure you get it balanced. Don't forget to always use stands to hold the car up, not just the jack. People have been killed by IRSs falling.
Pete

[Car-Nut]

Perhaps when someone has got theres jacked up next on these points take a couple of ics and upload them-

[Erikantwerp]

Hi all,

I have ordered replacement jacking location brackets. Has anyone any experience in replacing/fixing those ? Any guidance more then welcome.

cheers
Erik

[Shaguar]

Took the following pic showing jack and axle stands positioning:

[Moeregaard]

As a rule it's probably a good idea to not use the factory jacking points. Chris Harvey's book, "E-Type: End of an Era" mentions that these were known to fail on nearly new cars. I'm sure their condition has not improved with age.

The point about supporting the IRS is also well made. An 18-inch length of 4 X 4 fence post will provide all the support needed for jacking, and it will fit between the exhaust pipes. Using a block that is too short can damage the bottom sheet metal of the IRS cage.

One point worth making about raising the front end is that the suspension should not be allowed to drop completely with the dampers removed. This will put some nasty forces into the ball joints and it tends to destroy their boots. I only mention this because I've seen restoration photos with the wishbones at full drop.

I can't emphasize the importance of good jack stands, or even better, a set of ramps. Back in 1994, in the aftermath of the Northridge earthquake (I live 25 miles from the epicenter), I was under my '65 FHC when a small aftershock came through. I didn't think I could move out from under a car that quickly, but the important thing was that it was supported with its wheels on ramps. Don't even thing of using cinder blocks for any sort of support as they will fail.