Various basic servicing questions

[rossbraithwaite]

I started the winter service on my car this week and have a few questions that I need help with please:

1. The HT contacts inside the distributor cap were fouled/caked up. Does one clean these and if so how? Am I right in thinking that any sort of abrasive cleaning will increase the spark gap which could cause a misfire?
2. Spark plugs ditto; I have set the gap as per the workshop manual but does one just run some emery cloth between the contacts to clean them up?
3. Grease nipple on rear hub carrier (outer lower suspension pivot) I was pumping away expecting brease to emerge at either end of the pivot where the nuts are. Having re-read the manual it would appear that all of the grease was just pumping out of a hole close to the nipple and up the inside of the lower suspension arm. Would that be due to the car being on stands and the suspension dropped down?
4. Bleeding front brakes; with the ball bearing fitted under the bleed nipple; does this act as a not return valve allowing brake bleeding without shutting the nipple between strokes?
5. Having had the battery on charge for a few days the charger has not switched over to 'ready & maintaining' does this suggest poor battery condition? It could be a problem with the charger but it used to do that.

Thanks,
Ross

[malcolm]

With regards to 1) I'd just get a new distributor cap. They're cheap. And a new rotor arm - make sure you get the "red" one - don't break down the same.
2) Yes, but I'd also use a wire brush (handheld is fine) to clean it all up better, and make sure the white porcelain is nice and clean.
3) and 4) I'll let others answer!
5) According to the type of charger, I'd say yes, probably the battery is duff. My battery is very old, but with the optimate it always comes up with green for go after an overnight charge, even from flattish.

[cactusman]

cleaning plugs does not always work as soft metal brushes may leave traces of metal on the central insulator which defeats the object . If they really are caked up then (a) you may have a carburation issue to sort and (b), plugs are cheap - a set will be £15-£20 so if they are in poor condition the time to change them has arrived IMO>

[Mich7920]

N°3 : It's good for you that the grease don't emerge at the nuts ! It's waterproof outside/inside so also inside/outside. That's why there is the small hole for the extra grease.
N°4 : If you bleed as old fashioned, you must: open the bleed nipple, push the brake pedale, screw the bleed nipple, release the pedal, open the bleed nipple etc etc... You have some tools to bleed when you are alone and it's really more easy.

[chrisfell]

Others will advise not to use modern iridium spark plugs. One piece of advice I recall was to throw them as far away as possible. I ignored that advice and fitted them to my engine. Iridium plugs are well suited to today’s clean fuels and quite able to cope with the richer mixture the XK engine demands. I keep them in place for 3 years or well over 12,000 miles, far longer than the service limit of the OEM plugs. Fewer plugs changes, longer lasting plug threads. (Ask me why that is an issue.)

I also use semi synthetic oils. Not much more expensive than old technology 20W50, but it will last much much longer. I still change the oil and filter at 3,000 miles. I do up to 6,000 miles a year.

Those bleeding brakes! I use a cheap as chips easy-bleeder, so I can bleed the brakes single handed from the drivers seat. Cost a few quid, lasts a few fluid changes, dump and replace. I’ve tried vacuum bleeders (useless), I’ve tried applying pressure at the reservoir (hopeless) and at the slave cylinder (pointless). Always came back to the easy-bleeder. YMMV.

[rossbraithwaite]

Thanks all for replies
Bonjour Michel, ref. no. 4; I take it therefore that the ball bearing under the bleed nipple does not act as an effective non-return valve or the old fashioned way would not be required?

[mgcjag]

Some bleed nipples have ball bearings i think as a non return valve but these are after market replacements so not sure what you really have....suggest you just connect an easy bleed tube its just a length of tube with a one way valve on the end..simple....Steve

[cactusman]

As Steve and Chris say....just get a tube and a one way valve. Gunsons sell one as visibleed....not ezebleed which is pressure driven from the tyre and rubbish. Pop the pipe on the nipple and put in a jar so the end of the tube sits in fresh fluid. Three or four stamps on the pedal per corner. Do check the reservoir levels after each wheel and top up as needed. Job done. Start at the rear left and end at the front right. I have a fosseway remote bleed system on the rear. I can do all four corners in 15 mins with no need to even Jack the car up An annual service item on mine....and do the clutch system too every other year...

[Series1 Stu]

I don't think I've ever seen a bleed nipple with a ball valve. Is someone confusing bleed nipples with grease nipples, which are intended to get fluid in where bleed nipples are meant to get fluid out?

Regards

[mgcjag]

Hi Stuart..not getting confused at all.....just google search bleed nipple ball bearing.. https://xks.com/i-6916971-jaguar-bleed- ... 030pr.html .. Steve

[rossbraithwaite]

AFAIK the brake bleed nipples have ball bearings underneath them.
https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/Englis ... T%20BRAKES
https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/Englis ... ce74028fb8