Two pack paint mixing ratios

[Malc]

Three or four years ago I contacted a paint company as I wanted to paint the’tub’ while all the interior was out. The chap I spoke to recommended using two pack as it was tougher that cellulose and would look fine if it was applied with a good quality brush (I’m not going to spray two pack!) especially bearing in mind that the paint would be covered in trim etc. Well, after all that time, I have finally got to the stage where I want to prepare the tub prior to refitting the (newly restored) interior trimming . However I have lost the instruction on mixing the paint (if I ever had it) and I can’t remember who the supplier was to ask him. I have a one litre tin of paint and a half litre tin of ‘fast activator’. The top of the paint tin says ‘Mix 2-1-10%’. Now I assume this means two parts paint to one part activator but what is the 10%?

[christopher storey]

Malcolm . UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES must you brush this paint on without a full flow respirator . It is not the spraying which is the killer, but the isocyanate fumes themselves . These are just as toxic from an open can of activated paint as they are from spraying . Sadly I was involved in such a case where a paint salesman used to carry opened cans round in his car , and having been sensitised to isocyanates, on a re-exposure in his car to residual fumes, he was killed by them. A respirator of the full flow variety is a must.

[cactusman]

Wise words Christopher. Isocyanates are highly toxic....

[288gto]

PLEASE FOLLOW THE ADVICE ABOVE.


For information only , the 10% is normally 2k thinners.


Simon

[Malc]

That was a lucky escape, I’m glad I asked - thank you all, I will bin the paint. Why on earth a paint company would recommend two pack to someone they knew doesn’t have respiratory equipment, I don’t know. Every query is answered on the Forum!

[cactusman]

Remove any loose debris and rust. Treat with your favorite rusto preventer e.g dinitrol. Allow to cure. Couple of layers of primer\undercoat..e.g. Finigans No1 (now made by Hammerite) and then a couple of top coats of colour. If it is under carpets etc and unseen then hammerite is probably as good as any. Otherwise get your paint provider to mix a colour for you....two pack is for professional use only.

[Jeremy]

Not all 2 packs are dangerous. E.g. Epoxy Mastic EM121:
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/em-1 ... is-paint-7
A superb 2 pack paint that does NOT contain isocyanates. You can brush or spray it. They do it in a range of colours and will make to any RAL colour specially (5l minimum I think). There have been a few tests where it has come out top in terms of durability. Good finish, can be overpainted but doesn't have to be.
You can get a starter pack of 1l paint + 1l hardener + thinners.
I've used it a lot and it seems to be excellent stuff.

[cactusman]

Thanks Jeremy...there are paints without isocyanates. My comments do not apply to these although all paints should be considered toxic so wear gloves and dispose of any surplus according to the manufacturers recommendations as some can be extremely harmful to wildlife if they get into water courses.

[christopher storey]

I am very wary of companies who make their safety information difficult to find. Per Rusty's website "These how to guides are not technical data sheets or Health and safety data sheets those can be down loaded from our data sheet page. Any other technical information on drying times etc is available from the data sheet." I could not find either the datasheets nor the data sheets page. I should like to be sure of the formulation before going anywhere near this stuff

[Tom W]

Here’s the data sheet page.

https://www.rust.co.uk/datasheets

[288gto]

Just a few snippets from the above mentioned data sheets.

3. Hazards identification
The preparation is classified as dangerous according to Directive 1999/45/EC and its amendments.

Flammable.
Harmful by inhalation, in contact with skin and if swallowed.
Irritating to eyes and skin.
May cause sensitisation by skin contact.
Toxic to aquatic organisms. May cause long-term adverse effects in
the aquatic environment.

and

Exposure to component solvent vapour concentrations in excess of the stated occupational exposure limit may result in adverse health
effects such as mucous membrane and respiratory system irritation and adverse effects on the kidneys, liver and central nervous
system. Solvents may cause some of the above effects by absorption through the skin. Symptoms and signs include headache,
dizziness, fatigue, muscular weakness, drowsiness and, in extreme cases, loss of consciousness. Repeated or prolonged contact with
the preparation may cause removal of natural fat from the skin, resulting in non-allergic contact dermatitis and absorption through the
skin. If splashed in the eyes, the liquid may cause irritation and damage.


I have used epoxy primer, and yes it is an excellent product but please make sure you are using the correct respirator, ideally full face along with gloves not only when spraying it but also when mixing and importantly afterwards when airborne particles and fumes are still present. A dust mask from B&Q will not do.

2k acrylic isocyanate I would leave to a professional body shop.

Health and safety ( common sense ) lecture over.

Simon

[Gfhug]

Jeremy, did you use the EM121 paint for internal work to protect surfaces after you had the car dipped to get rid of the rust?

Thanks, Geoff

[Jeremy]

No solvent based paint is particularly health-enhancing but I will not touch isocyanate paint with a bargepole. And please note I'm giving no recommendations or advice about SPRAYING EM121. I have no facilities for spraying (apart from the limited use of rattle cans, outdoors) so I've only ever used EM121 with a brush. Rust's website has a video of their man opening and mixing EM121 with no gloves, bare-faced....DYOC
NB I would not chuck unused components of any 2 pack paint into the trash. I had a set of long-opened tins, 2/3 used, and I mixed them and let them harden before throwing away.

Geoff, I didn't dip or paint any part of the shell (it was blasted, cut up, and rebuilt by Robeys, then stripped, rubbed down, cleaned and painted by TT). I filled all the internal cavities with Dynax. Lots and lots of Dynax. Many of the components (e.g.suspension etc) were bead blasted and sprayed by the paint shop at Spellbound cars. The parts that I repainted myself, I wirebrushed, dipped in phosphoric acid, dried, then brush-painted with EM121. EM if unthinned has the advantage of filling quite deep pitting. Then I carefully sanded out the brushmarks and sprayed aerosol topcoat. Very laborious!

[Gfhug]

Jeremy, thank you I'll aim for a similar process

Geoff