Window height adjustment

[davidrl]

Hello, I am a new member and this is my first question.

In the following thread
http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php? ... ent#p40311
post number 5, kingzetts mentions "a metal stop screwed into the channel in the winding mechanism"

I am unable to locate this stop and would be pleased if someone could post a photo showing it.

Many thanks
David

[ralphr1780]

David.
With the door card removed, lower the window glass.
In the sliding channel, just beneath the glass, you will see a metal square stop screwed in the channel.
If it is missing, the window will rise too high.
Sorry I dont have a picture available, may some other fellow lister jump in.
It is helpful that you indicate your car model/year and country in the signature.
Good luck.

[davidrl]

Thank you for your response Ralph.

As you probably realise, my problem is that the door glass does not rise high enough to correctly seal against the sealing rubber on the cantrail. After ploughing through many posts on this subject, it seems there are different methods to set glass height depending on model.

I have now investigated my series 3 more closely and it seems there is a square metal stop which appears to be spot welded to the door frame, just below the waist, against which the channel affixed to the bottom of the glass bears when the window is raised. Furthermore, this stop does not seem to be adjustable.

I'm hoping that there is someone who has overcome the same problem and can advise.

David

Edit - Since posting, I have stripped the door further and found that the metal stop is not welded but secured with a nut and is adjustable. However mine is fully adjusted to highest position but may no be original and thus may be too large.

[madjack4]

Hi if i remember right the plate is offset u can turn it round to gain more adjustment
Regards Rob

[abowie]

IIRC the stop nut controls the lowest position of the window and does nothing to the highest position.

Your problem may well be within the winder mechanism or alternatively there is something interfering with the window's upward travel.

[ralphr1780]

IIRC the stop nut controls the lowest position of the window and does nothing to the highest position.

Indeed... but only if you fit it on the opposite side of the slide channel.

[PeterCrespin]

Indeed... but only if you fit it on the opposite side of the slide channel.

Voila! Who needs Hercule Poirot when we have our own Ralph!

[madjack4]

Hi on my s3 roadster it controls the height the window goes as i had to adjust it when i fitted a new glass
Regards Rob

[davidrl]

The problem I had was poor water sealing around the window, there were considerable gaps all around the glass.

I don't know why there were such large gaps because there is no damage to the hood frame and I was told by the family of the then deceased PO (who had owned the car for 35 years) that the vinyl hood is the original.

When I removed the height stop, I did note that the fixing stud was offset by about 3 or 4 mm but despite turning it to shortest side down, the window was still not rising sufficiently to seal properly on the cantrail rubber, I therefore milled a further 3mm off the stop which did the job.

I also modified the front glass channel mounting bracket in the bottom of the door by increasing the length of the adjusting groove by 3 mm to allow the glass to tilt inwards further to make better contact with the sealing rubbers. The rear channel bracket had sufficient adjustment to match the new glass angle when the window was wound down so it didn't bind.

I also inserted spacers behind the cant rail pieces to bring them out a further 2mm and it now the rubber deforms sufficiently to give a good seal when the door is closed. I also noted that the rear seal holder (in the B post position) had grooves to allow adjustment so I moved this forward by about 5mm at the top and 3mm at the bottom. This piece is attached to the inside of the hood frame and thus I could not move it out nearer the glass using spacers, I therefore carefully bent the lip on which the seal locates outwards by about 2mm and now the seal is in good contact with the glass.

That's the driver's door done - hose pipe test tomorrow!

David

[abowie]

Indeed... but only if you fit it on the opposite side of the slide channel.

Ah! But I am in Australia on the bottom of the world!

[abowie]

The problem I had was poor water sealing around the window, there were considerable gaps all around the glass.

David

The problem I had with my 4.2 FHC was that the window didn't fully retract into the door, so it was very uncomfortable to rest my elbow on the top of the door while driving.

I ended up modifying the brackets so that it would go down further as the metal frame of the window was catching on them.

[davidrl]

Results of hose pipe test were satisfactory! So it's on to the passenger side now.

Whilst studying the parts book I noticed that there are window frame spacers available (part BD20091/2) but there were none present on my car does anyone know whether they should be in place as standard or are they only used if required?

I can now see that adding the spacer would have moved the window frame up and because the height stop is attached to the frame, the window would have risen further by the thickness of the spacer which is 0.128" (3.25mm), ironically the approximate amount I removed from the stop!

Thanks, David

[abowie]

The spacers are there to adjust the frame height and angle relative to the A and B pillars.

When refitting a window frame you use them to get the frame to line up properly to the door opening.

If your frame is otherwise lined up you should not need to alter yours.

You're doing very well; most soft tops leak. The seals really will do little more than stop small amounts of drizzle. Heavy rain or a hose will usually soak you. Even in a coupe you usually get wet.